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Seatbelt floor torx bolt stripped. Any suggestions?
I was trying to remove a stubborn torx bolt that attaches the rear driver's side seat belt to the floor pan out of a crew cab. It's stripped to the point where no matter what size torx bit I try to put in there, they spin . I was thinking of drilling it out, but I don't know how that's going to turn out since there's only one shot at getting it right. The bolt hole for this is specific for the seat belt and if I screw it up, I'm worried I won't have a seat belt to use for that seat.
can you get some heat on it and maybe a set of vise grips. I have gotten some very very stubborn bolts off with heat and vise grips
I was using heat when it stripped. And I've tried vise grips and they will not 'bite' on the head of the torx bolt. There's not much there to grab onto.
Have you tried hitting it with a hammer to shock the threads? Can you grind 2 flat sides on it to get a better grip?
I did try to smack it with a hammer with no success. I will try drilling 2 flat sides for grip tomorrow. I sure hope that will work.
When I try to heat this up, I'm using a heat gun that goes up to 1,100* and heating the steel 'donut' that the torx bolt screws down into as well as the bolt from underneath the truck.
With stubborn, rounded off bolts, I have had good luck with tapping the head in a counterclockwise direction with a hammer and steel chisel. Make sure your strikes are aimed for maximum turning force. You can generate quite a bit of torque, and the shocks help to loosen the fastener.
With stubborn, rounded off bolts, I have had good luck with tapping the head in a counterclockwise direction with a hammer and steel chisel. Make sure your strikes are aimed for maximum turning force. You can generate quite a bit of torque, and the shocks help to loosen the fastener.
Is it best to do this in conjunction with heating up the bolt too or not?
With stubborn, rounded off bolts, I have had good luck with tapping the head in a counterclockwise direction with a hammer and steel chisel. Make sure your strikes are aimed for maximum turning force. You can generate quite a bit of torque, and the shocks help to loosen the fastener.
An air hammer with a chisel bit works great for doing that. Matter of fact, my coworker and I did that yesterday to remove some rusted nuts on a trailer air brake chamber.