Looking At A New 2011 SD
#1
Looking At A New 2011 SD
We are looking at a 2011 f350 cc srw lariat. I have a few questions.
1) It has the 3.31 locker. What mpg can I expect? I hope at least 18 when not towing. When not towing my driving is 95% 2 lane roads.
2) What is the service interval? I have read 5k and as long as 10k miles. I have assumed 6k for some calculations.
3) Is there any harm stopping the regens in the middle of the cycle over the long run? How long do regens last?
4) Are there any TSB's to look out for? Dealer says they are up to date as of last week.
5) Because of time on dealer lot should I be concerned about condensation in the fuel tank?
The truck has a build of 3/11 and has been on lot for several months. It also has the Continental tires (which I would like replaced).
I would be trading in my 08 6.4 cc lariat. We are looking at a heavier 5er that would put me WAY over my current gvwr. Some assumptions in 24k miles:
2008 2011
Service interval 4k 6k
Service cost 209 209 (assumed)
MPG 13.2(hand calc) 18 (assumed)
total service cost 1254 836
fuel cost 7727 5667
total cost 8981 6503
Difference is 2478 cheaper for 2011 - am I missing something?
MSRP is 57,885 - what is a good price? I hope to get down close to 40.
Sorry to be long winded and thanks for any advice.
1) It has the 3.31 locker. What mpg can I expect? I hope at least 18 when not towing. When not towing my driving is 95% 2 lane roads.
2) What is the service interval? I have read 5k and as long as 10k miles. I have assumed 6k for some calculations.
3) Is there any harm stopping the regens in the middle of the cycle over the long run? How long do regens last?
4) Are there any TSB's to look out for? Dealer says they are up to date as of last week.
5) Because of time on dealer lot should I be concerned about condensation in the fuel tank?
The truck has a build of 3/11 and has been on lot for several months. It also has the Continental tires (which I would like replaced).
I would be trading in my 08 6.4 cc lariat. We are looking at a heavier 5er that would put me WAY over my current gvwr. Some assumptions in 24k miles:
2008 2011
Service interval 4k 6k
Service cost 209 209 (assumed)
MPG 13.2(hand calc) 18 (assumed)
total service cost 1254 836
fuel cost 7727 5667
total cost 8981 6503
Difference is 2478 cheaper for 2011 - am I missing something?
MSRP is 57,885 - what is a good price? I hope to get down close to 40.
Sorry to be long winded and thanks for any advice.
#2
Unusual that there are still 2011's out there. Low demand due to the economy? If it's an early 2011 it could be a solid 18 months old.
In the case of the condensate I'd say location has a lot to do with it I think it would be a bigger issue in the north where it's seen change of seasons.
If I was an older diesel I'd say who cares. Throw some diesel 911 in, fill the tank, and change the filters. However given the HPFP I wouldn't take that approach with a 6.7 so I guess it's a valid concern.
In the case of the condensate I'd say location has a lot to do with it I think it would be a bigger issue in the north where it's seen change of seasons.
If I was an older diesel I'd say who cares. Throw some diesel 911 in, fill the tank, and change the filters. However given the HPFP I wouldn't take that approach with a 6.7 so I guess it's a valid concern.
#4
Unusual that there are still 2011's out there. Low demand due to the economy? If it's an early 2011 it could be a solid 18 months old.
In the case of the condensate I'd say location has a lot to do with it I think it would be a bigger issue in the north where it's seen change of seasons.
If I was an older diesel I'd say who cares. Throw some diesel 911 in, fill the tank, and change the filters. However given the HPFP I wouldn't take that approach with a 6.7 so I guess it's a valid concern.
In the case of the condensate I'd say location has a lot to do with it I think it would be a bigger issue in the north where it's seen change of seasons.
If I was an older diesel I'd say who cares. Throw some diesel 911 in, fill the tank, and change the filters. However given the HPFP I wouldn't take that approach with a 6.7 so I guess it's a valid concern.
Quoting Crazy 001...
"Diesel 911 is an EMULSIFIER though. They bill it as an emergency use additive...to hell with that, lives would have to be on the line for me to ever put this stuff in the tank!"
#5
I'll give you my opinion on as many questions as I think I can answer. I am not clear whether this is a used or brand new purchase? I am assuming new because of the price.
1) It has the 3.31 locker. What mpg can I expect? I hope at least 18 when not towing. When not towing my driving is 95% 2 lane roads.
18 MPG is achievable. Your driving style, the winter or summer blend of fuel, your tires inflation, the topology of the landscape all impact the MPG.
2) What is the service interval? I have read 5k and as long as 10k miles. I have assumed 6k for some calculations.
I go by the oil life monitor. My last two oil changes were around the 7,300 mile mark.
3) Is there any harm stopping the regens in the middle of the cycle over the long run? How long do regens last? I am not clear on the question, but there have been several times when a regen starts as soon as I pull into the garage. I shut the truck off and it doesn't hurt it - the regen happens the next time I drive the truck assuming it reaches the proper engine temperature, etc. My regens, as gauged by the fuel economy display, takes anywhere from a few minutes to seven or eight minutes - however, I am not always paying attention and could have missed something.
4) Are there any TSB's to look out for? Dealer says they are up to date as of last week.
There are a few out there for the transmission and regenerative system - your dealer could best tell you which ones are applicable, if any.
5) Because of time on dealer lot should I be concerned about condensation in the fuel tank?
It is hard to tell on this one. Try sampling the fuel and see if any water shows up - though since the truck isn't being driven normally, it may not give a true reflection of moisture in the tank because it isn't being pass through the water separater.
1) It has the 3.31 locker. What mpg can I expect? I hope at least 18 when not towing. When not towing my driving is 95% 2 lane roads.
18 MPG is achievable. Your driving style, the winter or summer blend of fuel, your tires inflation, the topology of the landscape all impact the MPG.
2) What is the service interval? I have read 5k and as long as 10k miles. I have assumed 6k for some calculations.
I go by the oil life monitor. My last two oil changes were around the 7,300 mile mark.
3) Is there any harm stopping the regens in the middle of the cycle over the long run? How long do regens last? I am not clear on the question, but there have been several times when a regen starts as soon as I pull into the garage. I shut the truck off and it doesn't hurt it - the regen happens the next time I drive the truck assuming it reaches the proper engine temperature, etc. My regens, as gauged by the fuel economy display, takes anywhere from a few minutes to seven or eight minutes - however, I am not always paying attention and could have missed something.
4) Are there any TSB's to look out for? Dealer says they are up to date as of last week.
There are a few out there for the transmission and regenerative system - your dealer could best tell you which ones are applicable, if any.
5) Because of time on dealer lot should I be concerned about condensation in the fuel tank?
It is hard to tell on this one. Try sampling the fuel and see if any water shows up - though since the truck isn't being driven normally, it may not give a true reflection of moisture in the tank because it isn't being pass through the water separater.
#6
It all depends on rebates and the dealer's willingness to move the vehicle. I bought my f250 cc lariat in Dec with a build date of 10/10 and a sticker of 56,600. Rebates and incintives brought the price down to 41,600. Purchased in the Baltimore area, I live in Tennessee. Compared to the 6000 in rebates offered here, well worth the drive.
#7
It all depends on rebates and the dealer's willingness to move the vehicle. I bought my f250 cc lariat in Dec with a build date of 10/10 and a sticker of 56,600. Rebates and incintives brought the price down to 41,600. Purchased in the Baltimore area, I live in Tennessee. Compared to the 6000 in rebates offered here, well worth the drive.
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#8
Pretty sure its been pointed out several times here that diesel 911 is an absolute DONT USE, particularly given the potential sensitivity of the HPFP to water in fuel. It is an emulsifier which could bring more water through the system.
Quoting Crazy 001...
"Diesel 911 is an EMULSIFIER though. They bill it as an emergency use additive...to hell with that, lives would have to be on the line for me to ever put this stuff in the tank!"
Quoting Crazy 001...
"Diesel 911 is an EMULSIFIER though. They bill it as an emergency use additive...to hell with that, lives would have to be on the line for me to ever put this stuff in the tank!"
#9
I agree that rebates are a big part of the deal, but....... dealers want the 2011's off their lots. If the rebates are equall who would take a 2011 when they can have a 2012 for about the same price. Looking at it long term the 2011 is a year old when you drive it off the lot. This is a strike against the buyer. The longer it sets there, the longer the dealer has to pay taxes on a less desireable vehicle. This is a strike against the dealer. The buyer has the leverage in this situation. When in the market for a new truck, October is when the big rebates start and selection is at its best as the new year vehicles are starting to overtake the lot. This only works in the buyers favor if they select a vehicle on the lot, when ordering all bets are off.
#10
#11
I'm seeing a range of 16-23 mpg with the 3.31 locker and 4x4. It all depends on how much laughter I need at that moment.
There is a dealer here in Oregon with a 2011 F-350 Lariat with a ton of goodies and a $59k MSRP. They are asking $47k.
Oregon Live | Portland, Oregon Automotive & Vehicles - Auto Dealers - Landmark Ford
There is a dealer here in Oregon with a 2011 F-350 Lariat with a ton of goodies and a $59k MSRP. They are asking $47k.
Oregon Live | Portland, Oregon Automotive & Vehicles - Auto Dealers - Landmark Ford
#12
I'll give you my opinion on as many questions as I think I can answer. I am not clear whether this is a used or brand new purchase? I am assuming new because of the price.
1) It has the 3.31 locker. What mpg can I expect? I hope at least 18 when not towing. When not towing my driving is 95% 2 lane roads.
18 MPG is achievable. Your driving style, the winter or summer blend of fuel, your tires inflation, the topology of the landscape all impact the MPG.
2) What is the service interval? I have read 5k and as long as 10k miles. I have assumed 6k for some calculations.
I go by the oil life monitor. My last two oil changes were around the 7,300 mile mark.
3) Is there any harm stopping the regens in the middle of the cycle over the long run? How long do regens last? I am not clear on the question, but there have been several times when a regen starts as soon as I pull into the garage. I shut the truck off and it doesn't hurt it - the regen happens the next time I drive the truck assuming it reaches the proper engine temperature, etc. My regens, as gauged by the fuel economy display, takes anywhere from a few minutes to seven or eight minutes - however, I am not always paying attention and could have missed something.
4) Are there any TSB's to look out for? Dealer says they are up to date as of last week.
There are a few out there for the transmission and regenerative system - your dealer could best tell you which ones are applicable, if any.
5) Because of time on dealer lot should I be concerned about condensation in the fuel tank?
It is hard to tell on this one. Try sampling the fuel and see if any water shows up - though since the truck isn't being driven normally, it may not give a true reflection of moisture in the tank because it isn't being pass through the water separater.
1) It has the 3.31 locker. What mpg can I expect? I hope at least 18 when not towing. When not towing my driving is 95% 2 lane roads.
18 MPG is achievable. Your driving style, the winter or summer blend of fuel, your tires inflation, the topology of the landscape all impact the MPG.
2) What is the service interval? I have read 5k and as long as 10k miles. I have assumed 6k for some calculations.
I go by the oil life monitor. My last two oil changes were around the 7,300 mile mark.
3) Is there any harm stopping the regens in the middle of the cycle over the long run? How long do regens last? I am not clear on the question, but there have been several times when a regen starts as soon as I pull into the garage. I shut the truck off and it doesn't hurt it - the regen happens the next time I drive the truck assuming it reaches the proper engine temperature, etc. My regens, as gauged by the fuel economy display, takes anywhere from a few minutes to seven or eight minutes - however, I am not always paying attention and could have missed something.
4) Are there any TSB's to look out for? Dealer says they are up to date as of last week.
There are a few out there for the transmission and regenerative system - your dealer could best tell you which ones are applicable, if any.
5) Because of time on dealer lot should I be concerned about condensation in the fuel tank?
It is hard to tell on this one. Try sampling the fuel and see if any water shows up - though since the truck isn't being driven normally, it may not give a true reflection of moisture in the tank because it isn't being pass through the water separater.
Thanks - this gives me some insight I was looking for. For question #3, on my 08 6.4l I will go out of the way to let the regen finish because of the elevated temps (usually about 14 miles) and then give it time to cool - a pain in the but since it regens every 180 miles. Just wondering if the 6.7 should be treated the same way.
You would think the dealers want to move inventory. I have called the dealer twice and they have yet to return the call. Aggravating.
#13
Don't let the phone thing discourage you. Dealers want to sell cars. In my case i started calling the dealership I bought my truck from before Thanksgiving and we could not come to terms. When the price dropped an additional 3k, the salesman did not call me. I happened to go to thier web site and see this drop about 2 weeks before Christmas. I called back and we got close on the phone. I decided to make the 7 hour drive to the dealer to let them see my face and know I was serious. 4 hours later, Merry Christmas to me. They may not believe you are serious until you walk on the lot, but don't let them waste your time or vise versa if you are not ready to buy now.
#14
It all depends on rebates and the dealer's willingness to move the vehicle. I bought my f250 cc lariat in Dec with a build date of 10/10 and a sticker of 56,600. Rebates and incintives brought the price down to 41,600. Purchased in the Baltimore area, I live in Tennessee. Compared to the 6000 in rebates offered here, well worth the drive.
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