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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1954 f100

 
  #46  
Old 05-02-2012, 11:01 PM
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Gas tank came in. I haven't installed it yet. But here is what it looks like.

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  #47  
Old 05-02-2012, 11:43 PM
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Not wasting any time or sparing any expense on this build! Looks like there's a fair amount of body work needed that will slow you down considerably, or are you going to get a better cab?
 
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:46 PM
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Still looking sweet, I just installed my tank in the rear last weekend. My tank flanges are straight so I still need to fab something up for the front two bolts where the frame rails raise up a half inch or so. Do you know if your tank will give you the same issue?
 
  #49  
Old 05-02-2012, 11:54 PM
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The cab is rough. Almost too many spots to list being bad. I may just look for another cab. Both corners inner and outer. Rocker panels both sides. Door Jams. Left front cowl. Firewall and left cab floor.. whew hard to remember. And the back roof seam. I don't know what a good cab runs so we will see. We aren't afraid of the MIG around here either .

My gas tank mounts to the frames. I have the opposite issue. The flanges angle for the shape of the frame but the angle is too steep. they were also too wide for the frame rails so I cut them down to size. I am going to use rubber inbetween the tank and the rails soI may to some bending and mushing to get the mounting just right.
 
  #50  
Old 05-03-2012, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by SVT-F100 View Post
Still looking sweet, I just installed my tank in the rear last weekend. My tank flanges are straight so I still need to fab something up for the front two bolts where the frame rails raise up a half inch or so. Do you know if your tank will give you the same issue?
Do you have enough clearance to build a simple 3/4" square tubing frame for the tank to sit in? Run the cross frame ends out to the frame vertical members and use the tails to bolt it in place. Doesn't really matter if the tank frame/tank is perfectly level or if the tank frame sits on the truck frame more than at the front and back.
 
  #51  
Old 05-03-2012, 07:46 AM
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Hey Aaron,
When you finish you will have the best looking truck in Kentucky!
Just as an aside - You blasted right through one of the hardest parts of fixing up these old trucks - the front IFS. I bet our's took 4 months to get in there correctly.

We didn't do much with the rear end other than replace the axle with an Explorer 8.8 inch - I'm following your TCI rear suspension build carefully.
What do you think - Is it going to work the way you wanted? I really like your Ford Racing Ltd. slip.

Our cab was actually in about the same shape as what you are looking at - rear cab corners, driver's side floor, door sills, etc. I don't think that will cause you too much grief - it's that roof seam that could be tricky. Getting those doors right is a pain as the hinges aren't really adjustable & if you look straight down the window well - can be pretty ugly. I'd keep your eyes open for better doors if your's are rusted out at the bottom.

Good luck over there - You are making great progress & I like your plan.

Ben in Austin
 
  #52  
Old 05-03-2012, 01:36 PM
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It really comes down to economics as far as repairing the cab and the type of work you like to do. A full set of repair panels will run ~ 1500.00 and require a lot of adjusting to fit (just about all come from the same manufacturer, and the match varies from fairly good to "is this really for this truck?") as well as fabbing a number of inner structure pieces, about the cost of a rust free cab and shipping. The doors can be very troublesome as there is a lot of inner structure. IMHO if the rust thru is higher than 6" and/or includes much of the door frame bottoms, it would be best to replace them.

It depends on how much labor you want to invest and if not perfectly straight panels will matter to you. If you are extremely **** like me and understand or do enough research to learn what metal does when worked it is possible to teach yourself how to repair your cab, but plan on spending 6 months to a year doing it (I'd quote someone 3 months for a premium short deadline, and 6 months for standard labor cost work for me to do a job like yours), compared to less than a month to ding out and prep a rust free cab for paint You will also want $1-2K in specialized tools and equipment. Chip Foose may be able to straighten a panel with a rock and a ball peen hammer if he had to, but the rest of us need the help of the right tools to even come close. Welding is the easiest part.

I'm not trying to discourage you from doing your own repairs, just trying to help you go into it with your eyes open to the realities of the work and costs involved. If you do decide to tackle it yourself, start with a small repair, say the rear corner and see how it comes out before buying a truckload of repair panels, meanwhile I'd continue watching the classifieds here, ebay, and craigslist for the major cities in AZ, NV and NM for a rust free cab.
 
  #53  
Old 05-03-2012, 03:50 PM
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Hey Aaron,
Ax is correct on the amount of work to fix a fairly rusted out Cab like your's & mine. We kept replacing parts until I drew the line & said I wanted to save the cab & the bed so I could still honestly say this is a 1950 truck. I didn't want a pile of replacement parts that looked like a 1950 truck. With that said I paid easily $6,000 to repair a cab I could have bought for $800 & maybe $4000 for a $1,500 bed. The cab can be the most time consuming part of the restoration - if you can bolt on a good cab for under $1000 I'd do it. We also replaced all the fenders after looking at how much work we'd have to do to unbondo them - $350 a piece for fiberglass replacements vs a month of weekends welding & grinding per fender.

Good luck over there.

Ben in Austin
 
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:10 PM
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Does anyone know if the f200 f300 cabs have different dimensions?

It has always been up in the air about the cab. I want to keep it as I am not keeping anything else body wise. The bed could be reworked but they are so cheap to replace for $1500. I had planned on getting a fiberglass doghouse for the front. And that leaves the cab.

I will tour the cab with a video camera and post it later. So I can show you guys what I have to work with.
 
  #55  
Old 05-03-2012, 09:50 PM
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[youtube]SISBaPzYiI8[/youtube]
 
  #56  
Old 05-03-2012, 11:39 PM
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Hey Aaron,
I watched your cab video. Some thoughts below:

Positives:
o Cab Floor - They make replacement panels for the floor - the passenger side looks fine. I know the driver's side doesn't look good to you but it's not a bad fix to weld in a replacement panel or two. From memory they run $150 ea or so.

o Dashboard - It might be bondo but it looks to be in very good shape (see mine for comparison).

o Underneath the Cab - It was kind of hard to see but there should be
steel ribs running along under the cab where the cab is attached to the frame. From what I could see it looked ok under there.

Normal:
o Your Cab Corners are gone - You will have to get the replacement corners both inner & outer. It's work but the parts are all available.

Challenges:
o Lower 10 inches of your Doors - Once you sand blast that I think you will find they are mostly bondo across the bottom say 8 to 10 inches.
I'd look for some new doors. That said mine looked exactly the same as your's. I had some guys build a form & they poured fiberglass into the whole bottom of the door - re-forming it in glass.

o Back Seam of the cab up high - That's a tough one - I've got no experience with that fix.

Hmmmm.. You have some work in front of you - Personally I think you would be spending a couple of grand & 6 to 9 months to fix all that or you could find a nice cab in the Southwest & have one of our members check it for you & you'd spend the same couple of grand but skip all that hard work. You could be done & prepped in 6 weeks.

Let's see what some of the more experienced guys say. Good luck over there Aaron.

Ben in Austin
 
  #57  
Old 05-04-2012, 01:27 AM
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Aaron,
yes, all the cabs except the COE are exactly the same, as are the hoods. The big job cabs are often better protected from the elements and cared for longer, but cheaper because of less demand. You may need to buy the whole truck, but selling the extra parts can pay for the whole thing.
In 53-56 The model designations are F100, F250, F350, F450, and F550.
Solid metal is just SO MUCH nicer to work with and on.
 
  #58  
Old 05-04-2012, 01:43 AM
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I couldn't get the video link to work, but from Ben's description he's correct. Doors are a difficult fix and can cost 500.00 each for rust free ones more than the cost of a complete cab with doors.

I'm concerned about Ben's FG fix, it doesn't stop the rust, and it will grow and blister the paint in short order since water cannot get out of the doors (there are drain holes in the bottom of the doors originally, when they get plugged is when the rust really starts) as well as possibly chip and crack from closing the doors. A temporary bandaid at best.
 
  #59  
Old 05-04-2012, 12:53 PM
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If the rest of your sheetmetal is in the same condition as your cab, you might look at the topic: "Craigslist deal" that Bobby posted today. You can't buy the parts for that price and you'd end up with a 56 to boot!
 
  #60  
Old 05-04-2012, 05:33 PM
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welcome aboard

We are glad to have you as a member . My 55 was about the same condition as yours . If you take your time and walk away from it when you get frustrated (and you will ) you will be enjoying your ride soon enough . And keep the pictures coming ....
 

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