Replace HPFP with a pressure washer pump. They are designed to pump water. Serious if they can design a pump to pump water they can design a pump to tolerate a small amount without damage. So it cost 500.00 extra, whats that to a 65,000.00 dollar truck or a 10,000.00 repair. It could be done!

bastech

 

The pressures are different by an order of magnitude. ~4,000 PSI for a powerful pressure washer is nothing at all compared to the ~30,000 PSI necessary to run these engines.

 

Just hook 10 pressure washer pumps up together, simple as that

 

1. Lots of prayer and hope
2. Trade
3. Comprehensive insurance plan just in case

 

You have 2 choices the way I see it.

Drain the DFCM a couple times a month and use a good additive or sell the truck and get a gas motor.

Modifying the system will not improve the design of the pump. You can put what ever you want pre pump or post pump. Some will say I'm not being positive and helping to look for a fix. I'm just trying to be a realist about the subject.

Examples of why:

1. Install a filter (without an additional lift pump) pre or post DFCM and you will run the very high risk of cavitating the HPFP and it will fail.
2. Install a filter with a lift pump, may work until the after market lift pump fails And starves the HPFP. Then it fails and Ford definately won't cover under warranty.
3. Install a filter after the HPFP, first where would you put it? Might work but you will need a relief valve to install before the filter to relieve an over pressure situation or you run the risk of damaging the pump or blowing a line or something else. Now where do you put the return line for the relief valve when it does relieve this pressure. Somebody might say well you won't need a relief valve because there shouldn't be anything over 2 micron right. Wrong the filter itself will add resistance to the system, it may be ok at lower rpm's but not so much at higher rpm's for an extended period of time.

Let's look at this

Rickatic never used an additive, no water was found and pump failed.

The second guy didn't use additive( I think not sure) had water at some point and pump failed.

This last pump failed(don't recall OP) he never used a additive, had excessive water drove repeatly and truck failed.

Common reacuring issue is that no additive was used. (Has a pump failed when useing an additive) that is what we need to look at, could be a simple as using it instead of *******izing your truck. If a pump has failed and the OP used an additive then. We need to look possibly at something else.

Once again I'm not telling anybody not to find a fix for something they think is flawed. But man lets make sure it is first. If somebody posts a legitimate possible fix for this I'll be the first person to say hey that will work.

 

Ok so what additive is the best for reducing water PM22A or the Diesel Kleen?

 

I use Opt-lube simply because it is a demulsifier and had one of the best results in the scar wear test. If and I hope when Diesel Kleen shows they have improved their wear scar number I will switch to them.

 

What group of guys thought it would be a good idea to pressurize fuel past its combustion pressure prior to being in the cylinder?

Lets start lighting gasoline on fire before we inject it into the cylinder, it'll be cool.

 

Agreed that a fix will not improve the pump design. I'm taking the pump design as a given. All I'm asking is how to reduce the risk of pump failure or if a failure occurs to contain the cost to just replacing the pump. If a high-pressure filter is used post-pump then I'd imagine it could be >10micron. It's purpose is not to filter the fuel under normal operation. It's purpose is just to contain the pump shrapnel. Do you think that would be feasible?

 

OK so let's add a >10 micron filter. The filter is for catastrophic failure containment only. If a relief valve is needed then have the return line go back to the tank or the DFCM return line.

 

With a post HPFP filter, you don't need a return, but you'll need a method of detecting if the filter gets plugged.
If it gets clogged, theres enough pressure there to probably pump the filter down the high pressure lines lol.

I think the easiest way to do this, is with a ball spring valve. Filter gets plugged, closes fuel supply.

Another option i thought, was to install some sort of larger high pressure tubing, with magnets. Strong enough magnets would collect any junk metal particles from a failing pump. This might really be the best answer, provided the pump isnt made from some type of non ferrous metal.

And as far as the airdog system, I don't know if anyone noticed or not, but before i ever considered installing something like that, I'd just make sure the return line was on the bottom of the fuel tank, and there wouldn't be any more air bubbles to begin with.

 

My only concern is, is there enough room for this between the pump and injectors? Just a thought.

 

You might want to to start saving some money for a major repair. i would like to understand your thought process a little bit.

1. Why don't you need a return?
2. why do you need to detect if the filter gets clogged, its full of metal debris from the exploded HPFP remember. The truck will shut off from no fuel I think thats the way you monitor that Correct?
3. Hmmm spring check with a ball to close off fuel supply thats not there because the HPFP thats exploded isn't pumping anything.
4. Ok next larger fuel line with magnets. I thought somebody said some of the internal parts were Aluminum. Last I checked this was not magnetic.

My point is you leave out the one thing the system will need to operate with when the HPFP is operating correctly and want to put in a lot of stuff that will not matter if the pump fails.

 

Agreed that some of the pump components are aluminum, so magnets will not work. I'm thinking of this "filter" as more of a "strainer", that serves no purpose during normal operation. If the pump fails the strainer should stop the shrapnel. No return line is needed as theoretically, this is the only way the filter can get clogged. So if the filter is clogged, the HPFP is toast, meaning it will not even be able to create 30kpsi any more. Detection method is engine dies no start. No need for a ball or return line. Just be sure the strainer is tough enough to hold back the shrapnel while the pump destroys itself.

 

Post HPFP filter...is an excellent idea...IMHO.

As long as...it is large enough...in physical size...to handle the exploded parts of the HPFP...but with a small enough micron to properly filter.


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