installing doors with power windows on truck that had manual windows
#1
#3
I'm not entirely sure on any possible body style issues, but:
Remove hinges, or hinge pins on current doors and remove doors.
Place new news on truck, replace hinge pin or rebolt hinge.
Ohhhh you mean the wiring part.... Like Phy says, check a wiring diagram. I wouldn't at all be surprised if much of the wiring is already in the truck, like there is a whole mess of cruise control stuff under the hood of my truck, but it doesn't have cruise control.
Most power windows and door locks work be reversing the voltage to the motors (solenoids for locks). Voltage one way makes it go down, reverse it (negative) makes it go up. If the wiring isn't there, you'd need a fused 12V and good ground feeding the switches. The drivers side door probably has provisions to control the passenger window, so that would be two more wires going from the switch on drivers door, through the cab (dash?) to the passenger side door.
The switch is a momentary double pole, double throw. Meaning that power comes into the middle of the switch and go out at the two ends. Push it one way, its a straight connection. Push it the other way, and the power and ground switch spots reversing the motor.
At least I think thats how it would work off the top of my head. If you have a donor truck, it will likely be plug and play although you may need to swap some wiring harnesses depending on how cheap Ford was in the factory.
Remove hinges, or hinge pins on current doors and remove doors.
Place new news on truck, replace hinge pin or rebolt hinge.
Ohhhh you mean the wiring part.... Like Phy says, check a wiring diagram. I wouldn't at all be surprised if much of the wiring is already in the truck, like there is a whole mess of cruise control stuff under the hood of my truck, but it doesn't have cruise control.
Most power windows and door locks work be reversing the voltage to the motors (solenoids for locks). Voltage one way makes it go down, reverse it (negative) makes it go up. If the wiring isn't there, you'd need a fused 12V and good ground feeding the switches. The drivers side door probably has provisions to control the passenger window, so that would be two more wires going from the switch on drivers door, through the cab (dash?) to the passenger side door.
The switch is a momentary double pole, double throw. Meaning that power comes into the middle of the switch and go out at the two ends. Push it one way, its a straight connection. Push it the other way, and the power and ground switch spots reversing the motor.
At least I think thats how it would work off the top of my head. If you have a donor truck, it will likely be plug and play although you may need to swap some wiring harnesses depending on how cheap Ford was in the factory.
#4
#5
the power window and lock harness is a seperate harness from the main dash harness on these trucks. i installed power windows and locks in my 85 f250 by using this harness and all door parts from an 86 bronco. it was somewhat easy. there was one blue/black stripe wire that i did have to cut off. that was for the bronco rear window. harness plugs into your fuse box. just 2 wires and 2 circuit breakers.u-pull it junkyard is your best bet. hope this helps.
#6
the power window and lock harness is a seperate harness from the main dash harness on these trucks. i installed power windows and locks in my 85 f250 by using this harness and all door parts from an 86 bronco. it was somewhat easy. there was one blue/black stripe wire that i did have to cut off. that was for the bronco rear window. harness plugs into your fuse box. just 2 wires and 2 circuit breakers.u-pull it junkyard is your best bet. hope this helps.
#7
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#8
you don't have to change out the door, but you will need all wiring, switches, etc. you will need the power window regulator&motor assembly as well. for the job to look factory, also grab the door trim panels. you will also need to drill out the rivets holding the regulator/motor in the donor door, and drill out the rivets holding the manual regulator on your door. takes a 1/4" bit.I have seen some people use bolts when re-assembling, but the rivets are easier to use in my opinion. if you want the power locks as well, you will need to drill the rivet that holds the actuator to the door and grab the rod and clip that goes with it. hope this helps.
Last edited by dieselsupercab; 03-06-2012 at 07:00 PM. Reason: typo
#9
you don't have to change out the door, but you will need all wiring, switches, etc. you will need the power window regulator&motor assembly as well. for the job to look factory, also grab the door trim panels. you will also need to drill out the rivets holding the regulator/motor in the donor door, and drill out the rivets holding the manual regulator on your door. takes a 1/4" bit.I have seen some people use bolts when re-assembling, but the rivets are easier to use in my opinion. if you want the power locks as well, you will need to drill the rivet that holds the actuator to the door and grab the rod and clip that goes with it. hope this helps.
thanks
jeff
#10
#11
#13
Its Really pretty easy
I switched my Manuals for power in an 84 F150 I had and did just the opposite in my current truck. The regulator was held in by three rivets, I just hit them with the grinder and removed the hand crank regulator. Then I put the motor in, lined up the holes and used small bolts wth lock washers and Loc-Tite to mount the motor. I got the wiring harness from a salvage yard, ran it into my fuse box and pugged it in. It wasn't all that bad.... I actually did the reverse on the truck I just built, and have now decided to put power doors back in... I needed new doors and most that I have seen have power so I just said the heck with it, Ill put the new doors on then get the wiring harness. I actually think I have an extra one.... Good luckhttps://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/images/smilies2/thumb.gif
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