Power windows...
#1
Power windows...
Has anyone ever put power windows on an old truck like ours? I have this idea of going to the pick-n-pull and gutting a couple of car doors for the power window motor and apparatus (including the window track and such). I feel confident that I could put the power window components in my truck and have power windows.
I do have a few questions though. Does anyone know how power window motors know when to stop? Do they stop when a certain amount of pressure is reached or do they have a designated distance to travel up and down? Also I am wanting to use the stock window crank in my truck as a switch, Does anybody have an idea for that? I was thinking that when I move the window crank up the window goes up and when i move it down the window goes down.
Any ideas are appreciated.
I do have a few questions though. Does anyone know how power window motors know when to stop? Do they stop when a certain amount of pressure is reached or do they have a designated distance to travel up and down? Also I am wanting to use the stock window crank in my truck as a switch, Does anybody have an idea for that? I was thinking that when I move the window crank up the window goes up and when i move it down the window goes down.
Any ideas are appreciated.
#2
#3
Ok... For the most part power window system travel limits are built into the window regulators. In short they know when to stop when they can not travel any more. There are exceptions for express down features that look at the current draw to know when to stop the motor. But that is a bit advanced for what you want. There are aftermarket kits to convert pretty much any manual window system to power. You can buy power window switches that have a crank looking handle allready on them for the stealh look.
With the hassel involved with properly engineering your own system it it really dosen't make sense to try to homebuild it. But I am sure it could be done.
Good luck.. Jack
With the hassel involved with properly engineering your own system it it really dosen't make sense to try to homebuild it. But I am sure it could be done.
Good luck.. Jack
#4
Are you saying that when the window comes to something that stops it, the motor stops moving? Like when the top of the window hits the top inside of the door it stops trying to roll up. Is that right? The reason I want to "homebuild" it is because I can get everything I need for about $50 at the local pick n pull from a new car. A cheap kit will cost double that. I would rather get something that is factory and higher quality for cheap. Plus I am majoring in Mechanical Engineering so this would be a good practice for me. But that's not to say that I have my mind set on this way. If I find that this way will be more work than it's worth then I will consider other options. Thanks for the input Rusting-Nuts.
#5
Are you saying that when the window comes to something that stops it, the motor stops moving? Like when the top of the window hits the top inside of the door it stops trying to roll up. Is that right? The reason I want to "homebuild" it is because I can get everything I need for about $50 at the local pick n pull from a new car. A cheap kit will cost double that. I would rather get something that is factory and higher quality for cheap. Plus I am majoring in Mechanical Engineering so this would be a good practice for me. But that's not to say that I have my mind set on this way. If I find that this way will be more work than it's worth then I will consider other options. Thanks for the input Rusting-Nuts.
#6
I was just pondering about what you are trying to do and I am thinking about a car that just might have what you need that would make a pretty easy install. I would look at the rear doors on a Lincoln town car from about 84 to 89. I say rear doors because the fronts have those dropping mini wings. Measure the glass travel you need from your truck and make sure the car you get your parts from has at least as much. Check close on the donor to though because some of the rear windows dont roll all the way down. Just a thought.
#7
The power window systems I am familiar with stop when you release the switch. There are stops on the window regulator and tracks, but when the stops are hit, the motor stalls until you release the switch.
Also, sometime after 2000 some motors have sensing systems (current I guess) to cut off power if someone has an arm or hand in the way to limit injury.
Also, sometime after 2000 some motors have sensing systems (current I guess) to cut off power if someone has an arm or hand in the way to limit injury.
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#9
Okay that sounds good. Nice to know the motor stops on resistance rather than at a designated point because that would complicate things quite a bit. I'll have to check the junk yard out and see what would work best. It may end up cheaper to buy the whole door instead of individual parts. I will have to keep researching and see. Keep throwing ideas or suggestions at me.
#10
Join Date: Jun 2004
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i made my own power windows using parts from the wreckers. you need the motors from a mid 80's vehicle. there are two different styles that will work. the older style has the large round motors, while the newer ones have the flat style motors and are preferred. doesn't really matter what vehicle as Ford used them on a variety of vehicles.
all you have to do is remove the crank assembly from the window regulator (it is riveted to the frame) get a piece of 3/8" thick flat bar, shape it to go around the gear on the power window, drill holes to attach to the power window motor and holes to attach to the old window regulator. once you get the window regulator out of the fridge and get the power window regulators and have a look at them, you will be able to see quite easily how everything needs to go togather. the gear on the power window is the exact same gear as on the hand crank. the only thing that you will have to do is on the passener side, to fit the motor and regulator in, you will have to cut away some of the inner bracing to make it all fit.
it is a really simple project once you take everyhting out and lay it out.
the big gear on the regulator for the window will only allow the motor to go so far before it hits the built in stops.
rgds
Mike
all you have to do is remove the crank assembly from the window regulator (it is riveted to the frame) get a piece of 3/8" thick flat bar, shape it to go around the gear on the power window, drill holes to attach to the power window motor and holes to attach to the old window regulator. once you get the window regulator out of the fridge and get the power window regulators and have a look at them, you will be able to see quite easily how everything needs to go togather. the gear on the power window is the exact same gear as on the hand crank. the only thing that you will have to do is on the passener side, to fit the motor and regulator in, you will have to cut away some of the inner bracing to make it all fit.
it is a really simple project once you take everyhting out and lay it out.
the big gear on the regulator for the window will only allow the motor to go so far before it hits the built in stops.
rgds
Mike
#11
I think I pretty well understand what you are saying. But you lost me when you started talking about window regulators in the fridge. It doesn't have regulators because it doesn't have power windows. When I think of a window regulator I think of an electronic mechanism that controls how fast the window goes up and down. Are you calling regulators what I think of as window track apparatus? With the big gear looking thing and scissor lift kind of a deal? Thank you for the input. It's reassuring to know that I'm not the first person that wants to do this and it is relatively easy to do. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
#12
Join Date: Jun 2004
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the window track apparatus with what looks like a semi circle gear. that is technically still a regulator as a regulator can be either manual (hand crank) or electric as you are talking. once you get it out (or better yet find a spare set to experiment with) it will all make sense of how it goes togather and where the flat bar mounts.
Rgds
Mike
Rgds
Mike
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#14
Join Date: Jun 2004
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just the motor and switch is all you need. wiring is fairly simple as the motor is just two wires. make sure you get the switch that has i think it is 4 or 6 terminals . the older style chrome toggle style switch (looks the same as they used in the GM cars) are the ones i used and they can be found in the mid 80's mustangs as that is where i got mine out of. the newer switches uses remote relays to reverse the motors, while the old switches just reverse polarity in the switch to reverse the motor.
you can get the whole door if it is easier to remove and that way you can see how the wiring is, but you won't need anything but the motor and switch in the end (although the wiring harness would be nice).
goof luck
Mike
you can get the whole door if it is easier to remove and that way you can see how the wiring is, but you won't need anything but the motor and switch in the end (although the wiring harness would be nice).
goof luck
Mike
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