So I have another active post, But it's changed a bit and I need some more advice. Our 2000 F350 SDCC4DLB 4X4 7.3 180,000 miles. The last two tank fills of fuel have been causing me to sputter to the side of the roar and dump fuel, I've been doing this for the last two months with the WATER IN FUEL LIGHT COMING ON". Six months ago service eng. came on.
CODE
LOW OR HIGH FUEL OR OIL PRESSURE- I changed the motor oil, and filter and Main Fuel bowl filter, Reset codes and all seemed good.

Now I pulled and cleanned tank, Did the HUTCH MODS__ I drained 8 gallons when I pulled the tank didn't seem like there was any water in it. My two stock filters were plugged, Removed them put 15 GAL. of fuel from a different station. Drove about 10 miles and the motor shut down, I drained the bowl and drove home. Remembered I had a grey CAM SHAFT SENSOR in my glove box, So I replaced the GREY one With a GREY one and It Idled for about 10 minuites then SHUT DOWN???
I'm not sure what to do next except take it to a shop.

 

My guess would be your fuel pump. Do you have a gauge to monitor fuel pressure? The fuel pump is mounted to the inside of the frame rail under the driver's seat. If you don't have a gauge, I'd feel it. It should vibrate a bit when it's running.

 

I'd unplug the WIF harness, open the yellow drain valve and key on pump for 20 seconds to drain any water. Close valve and if it drives happy you're good. Watch the discharge, it should be substantial if the pump is good.

Did you clean and replace the in tank filters or ditch them?

No other codes now? How are you reading the codes?

Does not sound CPS related.

 

This could be an IPR thing... maybe. Without readings from the engine, we're throwin' darts in the dark here. You may want to read the OBDII tool link in my signature.

 

Yes I removed the in tank filters, Today I hooked up scan tool no codes? I replaced main fuel filter the old one had only been in for 1000 miles it looked very clean, but changed anyway. While I had the filter out I took a piece od tubing and siphoned out the filter bowl into a clear glass, Other then a few bubbles on the top of the fuel looked realy good. So I started it, It ran real smooth, no misses drove 12 miles freeway country roads ran great. just as I was pulling into my drive way it stalled. It restarted and is running but Idles a little rough now and while that was going on the light on the gear shift was going on and off for the overdrive, It's been doing that this whole time when the WTF light is on? Can the fuel pump work and then not work over and over?
Mel

 

Adding to what Tugly and David have stated....

What scan tool are you using? All scan tools are not capable of reading all of the Ford codes from this vintage truck.
This is a link to compatable scan tools most of which are very affordable.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html

This could also be IPR related, especially since you are stating there was a oil pressure code. A compatible scan tool will help diagnose this. Additionally, a $3 can of compressed air or a cup of ice water will also help diagnose it. The next time that this happens invert the can of air and spray it on the IPR or dump the cold water on the IPR. Then, immediately attempt to start the truck.

A cheap manual fuel pressure gauge with about 4' of hose will give you the ability to monitor fuel pressure while the engine is under load.

 

Starting to sound more like shorting wires; under side of harness at 42 pin connector and steering column shift wire. Sorry no time to dig up threads but I know there are many. Use the google wisely my friend.

 

So I'm using a $60 scan tool from NAPA auto parts it's a "INNOVA PRO" I checked wires at fuel pump they look good. I drove it again, I went 15 miles north Ran GREAT got off freeway went over and turned on the south on ramp and BAM id died. WTF, wait to start light is on and the off light for overdrive were all going on and off. Drained fuel bowl then turned on key and let the pump run out more fuel. It finaliy ran but when I put it in gear and started to go I had very little power and lots of white smoke coming out the pipe. It had me I was done, as I was pulling my AAA card out of my wallet the white smoke stopped, motor sounded good. So I drove another 15 miles home with no problems?? But I'm not sure its fixed? What does white smoke mean?

 

White smoke is raw, unburnt fuel, unless it smells kind of sweet (like coolant) which would likely mean a head gasket issue, which is rare on our trucks.

Have you checked all the connections and wiring for the 42 pin connector and the UVCH's? It almost sounds like an intermittent electrical issue taking down a whole bank to me. Also check the wiring from the 42 pin across the VC's as they can rub through and cause shorts also. Check for burnt pins in the connectors and if you have a multimeter you can ohm from the 42 pin connector through to the injectors and GP's. Wiggle Connectors around and see if one side opens up.

 

Well I just drove another 20 miles. No smoke black or white, no blow by to speak of, no fuel in motor oil. I've been thinking now since you guys started talking electrical?? For the last year or so when I release the E-BRAKE sometimes the truck will die and then start right up. I tried to reenact here in the drive way, it died 2 times out of about 20 times of releasing the E-BRAKE? I'm not sure where this 40 prong pin is?

 

It's under the hood, a big (relatively) black electrical connector held together by a bolt. I would post a pic but I am on my cell phone.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...d=156103&.jpg=

Not sure if the link posted right? You can see the wear marks in the paint on the VC too in that pic

 

Sorry David I just reread one of your replies now I know where the 42 prong is. And thats pretty close to the E-BRAKE, which as I said sometimes kills the motor when released

 

Thanks, I guess it's not where I thought it was. I'm gonna go pull it off and take a look.
Mel

 

It is located on the DS valve cover about midway.

 

When you get the truck idling..........reach under and start wiggling wires and pay attention to what you wiggle. We call this the wiggle test. Go from the engine bay to the pcm under the left knee on the dash. Fluctuation is what your listening to/for.

Denny