I have my ruff stuff weld on brackets and my GM calipers. Now I'm just trying to chose rotors. I've done a lot of searching and heard the following suggestions, and the following problems:

1) some say to use CJ-7 rotors, but apparently the axle flange needs ground down to fit inside the rotor, and I've also heard that these are lug centered, and the lug holes are too large so spacers have to be machined.

2) some say to use 1995 dodge ram 1500 rotors, which apparently slide over the axle flange without grinding, however I know the lug holes are too large on this one so again, spacers would have to be used.

3) some say to use early 90's suzuki samurai front rotors and they fit without spacers OR turning the axle flange. I haven't been able to find any information other than anecdotal comments that would say this is true. Apparently these are also solid rotors instead of vented, though that doesn't worry me much.

4) some say to use dana 44 front rotors off the 79 truck, and grind down the axle flange and they fit. Since the factory front studs are pressed in, I'm not sure how the rear studs would fit since they are pressed in to the axle.

I have found a part number for a doorman stud that has a bit longer knurled seating area than the factory rear studs, DORMAN PN 610-153.

If anyone has specific experience with these or any other commonly available rotor please let me know. I just want something I can grab from the parts store so i can get these brackets welded up. I have a bunch of other crap to do and this is holding me up.

thanks

 

additionally, apparently the doorman studs will self center any of the bronco front rotors, and from 93 down the bronco front rotors are 1.25" thick and at least the 95 and 95 ones are 1." The gm 3/4 ton calipers like I have work best with the thicker earlier rotors. The s10/monte carlo style calipers work best with thinner rotors.

I think I'll probably just take the extra pair of dana 44 rotors I have at the house, get them cleaned up for $10 on the lathe, and order the doorman studs. I will have to grind down the flange but I should be able to put the rear on jackstands and let it idle while I grind on it to keep em round. And eventually I'll order alloy shafts and I'll just order them with the correct diameter already.

Other suggestions?

I still can't find much on the suzuki rotors.

 

So everyone else either paid double for a kit or is running around with factory drums??

 

I used CJ7 rotors with SVO rear calipers. I machined down the axle flanges to interference fit inside the rotors so no need to lug-centric the rotor or make spacers etc.



The problem with F150 front rotors is they are too thick for most rear calipers, especially if you are wanting to use a parking brake.

Josh

 

Well, like I said, with the 3/4 ton chevy calipers I have they will handle the 1.25" rotors just fine.

I understand that grinding down the axle for an interference fit will get you pretty close as far as balancing out goes. Only problem with that is when you sandwich your rotor between the wheel and the flange you can't have an interference fit at the flange without stressing the rotor when you bolt on the wheel. Plus the insides of the rotors have a certain amount of run out. it won't matter probably but I don't think I could do it that way.

Your rotors look close enough that the doorman part number I listed above would work to center them on the lugs....

This will be trail only so no need for a parking brake.

 

Keep in mind I copied the SSBC 9" kit which comes with CJ7 rotors, SVO calipers and custom brackets

Also, the F150 front rotors are seperate from the hub. The hub contains the studs, not the rotor.

With Chevy calipers you do not have a parking brake, which may or may not be Kosher with State vehicle emissions and safety inspections. Some of whch are done yearly in some states.

Josh

 

Like I said, no need for a parking brake, this truck is on 16" wide boggers. Its not gonna be legal.

The 44 front rotors are retained by the press in hub, which is what makes me think they will be fine, since the studs are pressed into the flange in the rear, not the rotor... at the moment that is the plan. I wish I could find someone that used the suzuki rotors, so far all I have found is "I know a guy that.." and thats it, as far as the forums go.

 

btw the ssbc kit requires you to turn down your axles? **** that ghetto ****, if I was buying a kit it better be a damn kit.

 

junkyard 9 " disc brake conversion - Pirate4x4.Com

It's too bad the pics don't work, but I remember that thread from back in the day.

The main thing about Samurai rotors are they are thin, solid and don't have much of a brake surface. So the Suzuki or Subaru calipers are all that will work.

There are other threads via Google with some guys going the Suzuki route, but the majority use the CJ7 or F150 versions.

Just seems to be a debate with the F150 rotors to use them over the flange or behind.

Josh

 

Yeah, back in the late 90s I had my 74 F100 and also a 76 F100 that was going to be a full drag truck.

Got the SSBC kit second hand and installed it on the 76. Later figured out the rotors were exactly same as my dad's 86 CJ7 and then after that found out the calipers are Mustang SVO knock-offs.

Plasma cut and drill my own brackets, buy some reman calipers and some rotors and TA DA! I now have rear disks on my 74.

The axle flanges needed to be turned down in both cases. And I have noticed the axle flanges on these truck vary quite a bit from not only year to year, but also truck to truck. I picked up an extra set of axles at the junkyard onetime and the flanges were just slightly bigger than the ID of the rotors, whereas others need quite a bit taken off.

IMHO it isn't a big deal. Just a $50 or so machine shop charge. Certainly not a bolt on and go deal, but not a deal breaker. I might be slightly biased since I have always had access to machine tools and just used a lathe to turn down my own flanges.

Again, not a deal breaker in my mind. Not unlike those fancy $500+ fenderwell headers some guys were drooling over with 8th grader welds.

I will add, however, that the SSBC kit did not state in the instructions having to turn down the flanges. Seems the truck flanges are different than the cars perhaps. Likely Mustang/Torino etc axles could likely use the CJ7 rotors as s, except for then having to redrill ether the flange or the rotor.

Always a catch-22 it seems. No free lunch in life.

Josh

 

I have read that the small bearing 9's use smaller diameter flanges. I don't know enough about the cars to know if they were bb or sb.

I've read the same thing that the flanges vary from one truck to the next. I dont think I'll pay a shop to turn them down since they are basically mounted in a lathe on the truck... lol

 

LOL... I tried that. I jacked up the rear-end, started the truck and put it in drive and let it rip with a 7" grinder.

Gave up and took the axles into the shop. The axles are hardened one way or another and it was a biotch.

Certainly not impossible with some perserverance and patience, but on that particular day I didn't have either.

I believe most truck axles after 73 are big bearing. And then you have the cross-over from the sealed bearing to the Set-20 open bearing (75 or 76 ish).

Josh