Do I need to cap off my hub vacuum lines?
#1
02-22-2012, 08:47 PM
#2
02-23-2012, 07:49 AM
I still have my "auto" hubs but they leak so I have the equivalent of your situation. Without the vacuum lines being "sealed" when you switch to 4 wheel drive via the ESOF switch on the dash, the system will "see" the vacuum leak and change the AC/Heater to Defrost only for about 2 minutes. It will then "go back" to "normal" (wherever you had it set)./ There's a write-up somewhere on the forum about the exact timing. It's not a big deal but i would think they should be capped from proper operation and top preclude sucking in dirt, etc.
D
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#3
02-23-2012, 08:09 AM
#7
03-13-2019, 07:14 PM
Lead Driver
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#8
03-13-2019, 07:30 PM
Get vacuum caps at the local auto parts store and cap it off in the engine compartment at the solinoid, there is a hard plastic nipple that the caps will fit onto when you disconnect the factory line. Cap the hub side also so contaminates do not get in the assembly.
Old lines are also not guaranteed to be leak free. I capped mine at the vacuum reservoir appropriately.
#10
03-19-2019, 08:30 AM
#11
03-19-2019, 09:06 AM
Your vacuum pump needs to remain in service if you want your HVAC system to function correctly, it uses vacuum to operate the blend doors and heater valve when on Max AC. You can cap the vacuum res where it goes out to the vacuum pulse switch mounted to the inside of the front fright fender that used to control the auto hubs, that should seal up your system and allow the vacuum pump to cycle as needed like it should. If it continues to run constantly, you have another leak that needs to be traced and sealed.
#12
03-20-2019, 09:16 AM
Laughing Gas
Should also cap or get a threaded plug for hub. The dana ball joint set i bought came with the nipples or plugs for the hub assembly. 1/8npt if I remember
i personally removed all the lines as a set of warn premiums were already installed when i bought it. My solenoid is inop (but still plugged in) and i redid the vacuum lines that run to the accumulator to completely delete the solenoid from the system.
I gave no intention to ever find a set of OEM hubs and new solenoid and reactivate the system .
i personally removed all the lines as a set of warn premiums were already installed when i bought it. My solenoid is inop (but still plugged in) and i redid the vacuum lines that run to the accumulator to completely delete the solenoid from the system.
I gave no intention to ever find a set of OEM hubs and new solenoid and reactivate the system .
#13
03-21-2019, 10:28 AM
Should also cap or get a threaded plug for hub. The dana ball joint set i bought came with the nipples or plugs for the hub assembly. 1/8npt if I remember
i personally removed all the lines as a set of warn premiums were already installed when i bought it. My solenoid is inop (but still plugged in) and i redid the vacuum lines that run to the accumulator to completely delete the solenoid from the system.
I gave no intention to ever find a set of OEM hubs and new solenoid and reactivate the system .
i personally removed all the lines as a set of warn premiums were already installed when i bought it. My solenoid is inop (but still plugged in) and i redid the vacuum lines that run to the accumulator to completely delete the solenoid from the system.
I gave no intention to ever find a set of OEM hubs and new solenoid and reactivate the system .
#14
03-21-2019, 11:04 AM
Defrost is the fail open to make sure the windshield remains clear, all other vent positions are for passenger comfort, defrost is a safety item.
#15
03-21-2019, 11:54 AM