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2001 f350 wheels

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  #16  
Old 02-23-2012, 12:24 PM
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I really like the oem alum wheels on the '99-'04 super duty! Not sure I'd even consider newer wheels. Only downfall is how narrow they are.
 
  #17  
Old 02-23-2012, 12:28 PM
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I agree, that and the ones I have are bent. The rim is rotting away, I will need new ones sooner than later, but I will probably get used OEM again.
 
  #18  
Old 07-26-2012, 02:03 AM
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8-170mm to 8-200mm adapters

Hello all, been a few months - did the OP work his wheels out?

Just recently got started on my 2002 Ford F-350 XLT 4X4 7.3L cab/chassis.

As sharp as the stock alloy wheels look:

steel inner wheels don't do it for me, and won't accept dual alloys

they're the size of donut spares, and on a 4x4 it's a joke.

So the big challenge was trying to figure out how hopeless it was (FOUR wheel choices on tirerack!), and in the process - found out my front end is shot. That being said, after that, anything went - but I decided to keep things stock for now, and adapt to the later model wheels. I know trucks, usually by fixing them, and the right set of adapters can change things alot.

In reworking the front end, I've decided to add Rough Country front add-a-leafs and shocks - which are in already - to help support the winch mount and winch. Everything else will be using "stock" parts, just higher quality Moog replacements, stock rotors, etc.

I've decided to pull the front hub extensions (4x only) and switch to SRW front wheels. The later model wheels (8-200) are 17x7.5 for SRW and that'll take a wider tire than these ridiculous 6" wide fronts. And switching to the later model 05+ 17" forged alloys on the rear would be good for a larger width tire with the right spacer kit.

The whole deal will probably cost me $5-600 for custom steel adapters - to be able to run 265's on the rear with 4 stock 17" 05+ alloys, and 285's on the front. Wheels $800 or so, and tires $12-1400. Worst is about $2,800 total cost - ouch - but I'm used to buying 22.5's for big trucks so it's not as scary for me.

Once I get rid of the weight on the front hub extensions and deep offset front wheels - and change the wheel bearing assy's (1 is shot), I'm hoping the front end parts will hold together a little while longer.

In making my decisions (taken a month) I decided easy-to-find replacement parts are worth messing with adapters, and there's nothing easier than adapting up in bolt circle (170mm to 200mm), out in offset, AND center bore (also larger). In the rear adapters, I'll chase down a set that allows for longer hub-centric and studs to mount 4 alloys across.

So that's that mess. Although I dig the looks of 19.5's (anything larger doesn't have the weight to hold the tread down), I just can't see paying $3k+ for wheels and tires the truck doesn't need. And my concerns offroad are much better met with more pliable tires in the D and E range (maybe F).

Have a great time with yours!
 
  #19  
Old 07-26-2012, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by HwyPilot
...on my 2002...4X4 7.3L cab/chassis...
...steel inner wheels don't do it for me, and won't accept dual alloys...
Please elaborate on
...won't accept dual alloys...
I replaced the inner steel wheels with alloys years ago on my 2001.
 
  #20  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:52 PM
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Any secrets to share on that?

Originally Posted by dn29626
Please elaborate on I replaced the inner steel wheels with alloys years ago on my 2001.

When I had my truck up a few weeks ago to balance the tires and check everything - we noticed that the rear studs and hub center were too short to support the outside wheel if backed alloys were used. Did you use OEM alloys? Mine are about 5/16" thick (at least) and I'd also need room for centramatic balancers - even if I have to have them made (doubt it).

I'm currently looking into adapters, and may be switching bolt pattern in the process - the wheel choices are limited at best. I'm pretty sure I could find as many choices for a 3 lugged Renault LeCar

That being the case - we'll see how choices work out - the other reason is the tiny SRW wheel choices for 99-04 and that's going to change
 
  #21  
Old 07-26-2012, 03:38 PM
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Where are you located? I have centramatic balancers that I do not use anymore.
 
  #22  
Old 07-26-2012, 03:50 PM
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Pictures.





The studs stick out beyond the nuts just a little.
 
  #23  
Old 07-26-2012, 05:35 PM
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DemonRace6:
How much for the centramatics you aren't using. I might be willing .... if they fit a 2001 axle.
 
  #24  
Old 08-06-2012, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DemonRace6
Where are you located? I have centramatic balancers that I do not use anymore.
I'm in Georgia. Thanks for the offer, sorry I've been buried in email this week or I would've responded sooner!
 
  #25  
Old 08-06-2012, 06:11 PM
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dn29626 -

Thanks for the pics, I really appreciate it since I haven't been able to "mock it up" lately to get a better look. From the way it looks (and knowing my luck in the past) I'd need to replace my studs with longer (3 threads past the nut rule for visual inspection), but it seems like the axle supports both wheels well enough to carry a load.
 
  #26  
Old 08-06-2012, 07:47 PM
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Personally, I like steel factories, I went with 19.5" on my 02 F350. I have several 550's and you cant beat the 19.5 for anything but off roading.


Ironwood
 
  #27  
Old 08-06-2012, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ironwood
Personally, I like steel factories, I went with 19.5" on my 02 F350. I have several 550's and you cant beat the 19.5 for anything but off roading.


Ironwood
19.5's do look like a solid choice, and if this thing wasn't seriously off-road I'd be all over it. What brand and style?


I'm considering putting a pair of low-cost new 235's on the front, fixing the wheel bearing for now and skipping the wheels. It dawned on me that I've got alot more to worry about on this "new" (to me) truck than wheels and tires at the moment.

-Turn Signals don't flash
-nearly no lights on the flat bed - 2 truck lights behind screens on the rear. Fixed for the moment with DOT red/white tape.
-no place to hang a license plate on the rear (GA), and no light for one - it's on the headache rack for now.
-Cruise Control is out, and if I push three of the buttons on the wheel - the horn blows
-airbag lights on
-ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links
-shot front wheel bearing

I've probably figured most of these out: clockspring, a welder, wheel bearing (for now, change the 2nd one soon) and a multi switch. And the front end will have to wait - no off-roading. But I've got a few more things on other lists.


That being said, I could solve the front narrow tires by pulling the stock front axle adapters off and using centered (3/4 Ton) wheels up front with 265's. One of the designs in that year range was a 16x7" close to the same design. I'm just not sure I have the money and time to get into it at the moment.
 
  #28  
Old 08-20-2012, 01:06 PM
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Factory rims, on OEM front axle adapters, rear custom adapters. LOVE them, just got back from 2000mi in the UP Michigan.

As far as tire brands, I have bought every fleet pull off I can find from my local guys. I run 19.5's on a 4x4 550 V10 and my family F-350 7.3 CC/CC 4x4. I counted at one point and there are around 30-36 tires in my inventory. Some are crazy new (like Michelins, or Goodyears). I pay between $40-75 each, and given how tires keep going up and up $$$ I cant say no. Call me crazy......

Ironwood
 
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