Does anyone have the part number for the Push Rod Cover, left side of the 4.9L inline 6-300? ('81 Ford F-100)

Searching some parts companies online (Green, etc.) but need part number.

I was having a fine afternoon replacing the gasket and grommets. Oil drained, necessary parts disconnected and moved, six bolts out, all is well - except the PO apparently attached the cover with gasket adhesive. It will not budge, top/bottom/sides. It's like it's welded on there. The problem is, it leaks, which is why I was replacing the gasket in the first place. As I've pried off the rotten grommets, I can't just put the bolts back in, as there's some bits of grommet on the inside.

So I need to find a replacement cover before I pry this one off - pretty sure it's going to get destroyed in the process. (Posting this also in the engine forum.)

Or if you have one you're looking to part with, please PM me.

Many thanks.

 

I don't have a part # for the pushrod cover, but I do have a tip for changing the gasket and grommets when you do it.

First, get the cover off then clean the block where the cover sits with a clean rag and maybe some kind of penetrative oil like PB blaster. Then, if your cover turns out to be straight and you can pry it off without a hitch, you'll have to religiously clean the inside of the cover with a tire scrubbing brush and Dawn dish soap.

When you put the gasket into the cover, run a bead of permatex or RTV gasket sealant on the cover, then set the gasket in it and press it in there to adhere it to the cover. Be careful setting it on the motor, as the gasket has a tendency to come off the cover if moved just right (ask me how I know, I did it without gasket sealing adhesive the first time, and it was a chore).

Once you've got the cover in place, put the grommet up to the hole it sets in, then put an EXTRA washer on top of the grommet (when tightened down, the washer in the grommet tends to bow inwards like a bowl, this will help you get an even seal around the grommets) then thread the bolt through the washer, grommet, then pushrod cover into the hole.

Finally, tighten from inside next to the distributor out to each end of the motor.

front<--middle-->rear

My cover was bowed and woppy-jawed too. I used gasket sealer and extra washers to get her ultra tight. I hand tightened it from the middle to the outsides like my repair manual says, and it doesn't leak a peep now. Granted, I didn't torque it to any proper setting like you should (which is a big no-no), I hand tightened until the rubber bulged out and it felt real tight. You can usually feel with enough practice when to stop, in my opinion. I recommend a torque wrench though.

Good luck

If you want to try to straighten out the cover, maybe set it on a 2x4 or 2x6, then set a 2x4 or 2x6 on top of that and try to mash it flat again?

If you can't get the cover off, I'd take a flat-head screwdriver and a hammer, aim real careful, and try to chisel it off. It shouldn't take much force, even if the gasket is old. They are sheet metal, to a point. About as thick as the valve cover, so take it easy.

 

Thanks, that's great info to have.

I swear, it's like the PO welded it on - unfortunately they didn't use enough Ultramax 7000 Permanent Gasket Concrete along the bottom edge, thus the leak.

 

Haha, I hear what you mean.

Wait until you pull the old gasket off of the cover and the darn thing is like wood.

My cover leaked at the front on the bottom near the fuel pump, and at the back next to the bell housing on the bottom corner.

If you use gasket sealer to hold the gasket onto the cover so you can get them both on straight, you won't have any problems. Don't use gasket sealer on the block, in my opinion. I was kinda paranoid about it maybe getting into the lifters somehow.

 

E7TZ-6519-A COVER (VALVE PUSH ROD) Fits 1980/89 and I'd guess all previous & subsequent 4.9L engines.

Obsolete, no dealers or NOS have any.

It's a one-piece unit:

 

Gadzooks. Looks like I'm hittin' the JYs tomorrow!

Thanks --

 

Eureka!

zstangkrewson over in the engine forum found one on eBay for $25, all sandblasted and primed and gussied up, and I just bought it. The seller listed it as "Pushrod Side Cover", which is why I didn't find it earlier. Now I can tear the old one off tomorrow and if it bends, it bends. If it doesn't, I'll probably use the new one anyway after I paint it.

This is a fantastic forum.

 

Hmmmm.... so, having snatched this other cover on eBay, now I'm looking at it and it's different. I know Ford made these motors for quite a few years, and the seller says it's for a 4.9L 300-6. Is it going to fit my truck? Notice the raised horizontal ridges between the bolt holes ---

 

More than likely it's just a difference in design. That cover could just be from an EFI 300. It shouldn't make any difference.

 

Thanks, good to know. I'll update my Festus thread this evening with a progress report, heading out to the garage now to see if I can get that cover off...

 

E7TZ-6519-A (replaced E5TZ-6519-B, C5AZ-6519-C, C5AZ-6519-B) .. Pushrod Cover / Obsolete

Applications: 1965/74 240 I-6 (includes 1965/71 Galaxie/LTD) / 1965/96 300 I-6.

No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any of these part numbers.

 

That pushrod cover is from the efi motors.

It's funny that you bought that cover, because while I was looking for the # online I saw it yesterday.

 

I would imagine the extra ridges actually make it stronger, like a floor pan.

 

Very pleased to report that the old one is off! I used a 10" drywall knife and rubber mallet, gave it a few careful whacks, and it finally separated. Waiting to hear if the eBay seller will cancel my order, if not, I'll offer the "new" one here when it arrives.

Thanks for all the help --

 

Pushrod cover in-famous for leaking oil. Peeps tended to overtighten the bolts when re-installing the puppy, causing the area around the bolt holes to flare outwards.

Remove the little charmer, lay it on a flat surface, it will be resting on 6 pedestals, instead of laying flat.

Millions of these I-6's were made, but no one has any NOS pushrods covers. Now you know the reason why.