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oh this is just great.......ugh......so is there anything in particular to use to clean out the coolant other than water??
You can use Restore (available at most truck shops like Navistar, Mack, KW). You want to use distilled water to get it completely flushed out....usually about 5-6 drain, refills, run, drain cycles. By that point you'll in theory have only water in your cooling system. At that point, drain the water out (pull lower radiator hose) then refill with Ford Gold or Cat ELC coolant. The down side to the Ford gold is particulates...thus most guys are going back with an extended life coolant like Cat ELC-1. Make sure it isn't 50/50 premix...other wise it will be too weak; using the methoud of 5-6 good flushes with water then refilling with pure coolant will give you the exact ratio you need for -40F below protection.
yes,i see what you are saying now, so are you saying i need to go check each one of these???
Not nessaserly
But if you had a drivability concern you would check said sensors for whatever operating system might be causing your drivability issues
Originally Posted by Teds
to check at the higher rpm(2500) would that be driving or just parked holding accelerator
Yes all in park holding accelerater pedal at 2500 rpm and would be Best to be at Normal Operating temp to so an ECT of 190*
monitoring this SGII i have noticed my water temp never goes over 190*, is that the max temp for scan gauge or is that just the highest the water gets?? EOT still running 16-17* over water, highway driving only....
monitoring this SGII i have noticed my water temp never goes over 190*, is that the max temp for scan gauge or is that just the highest the water gets?? EOT still running 16-17* over water, highway driving only....
Are you using the stock *fWT? You can program in an x-gauge to read ECT, and if the two are reading the same then the gauge is probably working correctly. It should go over 190*, but if it's cold outside (less than 50* does this to me) my truck will run as low as 186-188* on the highway. Cracking 190* takes punching the throttle for a run up a hill or ramp, but that kills the ECT/EOT comparison of cruising at 60mph on level highway.
Are you using the stock *fWT? You can program in an x-gauge to read ECT, and if the two are reading the same then the gauge is probably working correctly.
There is only 1 ECT sensor on the 6.0L
So with that said you cant use fWT & ECT to check each other to confirm a bad sensor
Since they both read off the same sensor if the sensor is giving a bad reading both Gauge readings will be BAD
A Good thermostat should hold ECT at a Minimum of 190* regaurdless of ambeint temp
If you are running less than 190ECT the thermostat is hanging open alittle
But a 186-188 ECT is not tofar out of spec yet IMO so id leave it in there
should the ECT and the EOT always be within 6-7 * ??
it stays abt the same idle or around town, but on hwy as in today it is a little warmer outside and i was at 190ect and 209eot, question is is it suppose to be higher when hwy driving?? thats at a 20 drive down the hwy??......
will flushing and cleaning the system clean out the cooler??
Here is a list of Xgauges. They have operating values listed. ICP-psi, ICP-volts and IPR% will help with HPO testing. Compare your values with those. Make sure FICM is tested when cold. Then the others are hot values. And high idle, from what I have read here is 2500 rpm. for testing purposes.
If someone has other Xgauge recommendations for testing HPO that I have missed, jump in !!!!
KO=KEY ON LI=LOW IDLE HI=HIGH IDLE OR=OPERATING RANGE
FICM Vehicle Power (Volts) (Should be 12 Volts, should not drop below 10.25 for more than 60 seconds, or 9.0 for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-03)
?TXD: 07E02209CE
?RXF: 0462450906CE
?RXD: 3010
?MTH: 006401000000
?NAM: FVP
KO=12.0 LI=14.0 HI=14.0 OR=10.5-15.5
?
FICM Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts)
?TXD: 07E02209CF
?RXF: 0462450906CF
?RXD: 3010
?MTH: 006401000000
?NAM: FLP
KO=12.0 LI=13.5 HI=13.5 OR=10.5-15.5
?
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be 47-48) Your FMP should never dip below 45. If it does, your FICM is toast and needs repaired or replaced.
?TXD: 07E02209D0
?RXF: 0462450906D0
?RXD: 3010
?MTH: 006401000000
?NAM: FMP
KO=47 LI=47.5 HI=47.5 OR=40-52 (yes, that is what it says from Ford)
Here is another BAR if the above one is not working for you. The one below works for me.
Barometric Pressure (PSI)
TXD: 07E0221442
RXF: 046285140642
RXD: 3010
MTH: 001D00500000
NAM: BAR
MAP is a standard gauge - but this XGauge is actually better than the standard one. It has a larger range which was needed because the standard gauge tops out around 37 psi absolute (about 22 lbs of boost), which diesels have no problem doing. This one should read well beyond 22lbs of boost.
?With a little tweaking you can adjust this to read boost as you said.
??To do this, just plug in the MAP code - get a reading from it with the key in the on position but the engine off, then based on the reading changed the last 4 digits of the MTH to whatever corresponds to your reading on this table
12.7 FF81
12.8 FF80
12.9 FF7F
13.0 FF7E
13.1 FF7D
13.2 FF7C
13.3 FF7B
13.4 FF7A
13.5 FF79
13.6 FF78
13.7 FF77
13.8 FF76
13.9 FF75
??14.0 -- FF74
?14.1 -- FF73
?14.2 -- FF72
?14.3 -- FF71
?14.4 -- FF70
?14.5 -- FF6F
?14.6 -- FF6E
?14.7 -- FF6D
?14.8 -- FF6C
?14.9 -- FF6B
?15.0 -- FF6A
??So, for example if you got a reading of 14.5 PSI with key on engine off you'd change the MTH to 01220320FF6F and the reading should read 0.0 with key on engine off and would then show how many lbs of boost you were at when the vehicle is running.
?
You can use Restore (available at most truck shops like Navistar, Mack, KW). You want to use distilled water to get it completely flushed out....usually about 5-6 drain, refills, run, drain cycles. By that point you'll in theory have only water in your cooling system. At that point, drain the water out (pull lower radiator hose) then refill with Ford Gold or Cat ELC coolant. The down side to the Ford gold is particulates...thus most guys are going back with an extended life coolant like Cat ELC-1. Make sure it isn't 50/50 premix...other wise it will be too weak; using the methoud of 5-6 good flushes with water then refilling with pure coolant will give you the exact ratio you need for -40F below protection.But of course....