I think i almost kiled my truck
#16
Depending on how/where the waste gate was disconnected results in different end results.
If the hose is disconnected, it just doesn't open at the preset pressure ... So you build more boost. It'll also leak boost out the hose if not plugged.
If the actuator rod is disconnected the waste gate will remain open resulting in little or no boost.
Either way damage is unlikely, especially with stock exhaust.
I basically have my waste gate locked tight shut with a slightly modded exhaust that is about to undergo major surgery ... That is if Banks ever gets their products off that slow boat from China!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
If the hose is disconnected, it just doesn't open at the preset pressure ... So you build more boost. It'll also leak boost out the hose if not plugged.
If the actuator rod is disconnected the waste gate will remain open resulting in little or no boost.
Either way damage is unlikely, especially with stock exhaust.
I basically have my waste gate locked tight shut with a slightly modded exhaust that is about to undergo major surgery ... That is if Banks ever gets their products off that slow boat from China!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#17
Man, that looks an awful lot like a 6.9 engine. The filler cap and return line from the IP are dead give-aways. I can't tell much by that timing mark on your pump. It should be almost dead center at the top of the pump housing. It looks a little advanced from its clocking but depending on how the pump was rebuilt that could possibly be OK.
#18
#19
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Yea, I'd say that's a 6.9 as well unless some one has put the older style return on a 7.3 ... IMNSHO that would be ignorant.
I really can't see the mark on the IP, but if I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing it's pretty advanced ...
Start the motor when it's cold, the motor must be below 112F so the fast idle and cold start advance is active (on), unhook the cold start advance wire off the IP, listen to the difference, it should rattle with it on, and not when it's off.
If the rattle doesn't change much, it's to far advanced.
You can do it when it's warm by applying 12v to the Cold Start solenoid on the IP ... In fact that is when I do it ... Unplug the Cold Start solenoid, Use a jumper wire to power the solenoid ... On then off listening.
This is NOT the best method, but it works, one is best off taking it to a shop that has the proper equipment to properly time the fuel.
What size of a 12 point socket fits the head bolts ???
1/2 12 point is a 7.3.
7/16 12 point is a 6.9.
And be happy, a 6.9 is better then the 7.3.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I really can't see the mark on the IP, but if I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing it's pretty advanced ...
Start the motor when it's cold, the motor must be below 112F so the fast idle and cold start advance is active (on), unhook the cold start advance wire off the IP, listen to the difference, it should rattle with it on, and not when it's off.
If the rattle doesn't change much, it's to far advanced.
You can do it when it's warm by applying 12v to the Cold Start solenoid on the IP ... In fact that is when I do it ... Unplug the Cold Start solenoid, Use a jumper wire to power the solenoid ... On then off listening.
This is NOT the best method, but it works, one is best off taking it to a shop that has the proper equipment to properly time the fuel.
What size of a 12 point socket fits the head bolts ???
1/2 12 point is a 7.3.
7/16 12 point is a 6.9.
And be happy, a 6.9 is better then the 7.3.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#21
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Find out what socket fits the head bolts .... that is the most positive method other then numbers that are hard to see and describe the location of ...
However if you want to look at numbers, they are on the flat surface of the block on the drivers side of the IP Gear housing, where the IP gear housing mounts. I'll see if I can dig up a picture of their location.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
However if you want to look at numbers, they are on the flat surface of the block on the drivers side of the IP Gear housing, where the IP gear housing mounts. I'll see if I can dig up a picture of their location.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#22
#26
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They are basically the same exact motors ... the 6.9 has a 4" bore, the 7.3 has a 4.110" bore, that over bore is what kills many 7.3's.
They will be either 7/16 or 1/2 ... They are American, 11mm is pretty close to 7/16's.
It's a 6.9 that is partially dressed up like a 7.3 ... In many eyes that would be a blessing, I am one!
My next question would be: What year 6.9 is it ... See here: 6.9 block ID
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
They will be either 7/16 or 1/2 ... They are American, 11mm is pretty close to 7/16's.
It's a 6.9 that is partially dressed up like a 7.3 ... In many eyes that would be a blessing, I am one!
My next question would be: What year 6.9 is it ... See here: 6.9 block ID
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
#27
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i see the '92 1/2 + serpentine belt setup.
i see a 6.9l oil fill neck.
i see an incorrectly tuned engine.
my guess is,she's the '93 7.3l turbo engine,but she had her gear cover removed,and then lost/ruined so a 6.9l was replaced.by the looks of the crazy advanced ip,id say it's clear this engine is extremely de-tuned.
id be pulling a valve cover to see the head bolt size anyway.then id pull the gear cover,correctly line up the timing gears,by the looks of that ip placement she's way out of whack and that's how they cheated the thing to run. -- thats not the first time iv seen this done here on the forum.i bet its far more common than most of us know too.the more iv read about idi's reported as being dog's then thinking some more about how commonly the gear covers get removed,the more i think this.so iv added more info on that in the link below,to encourage pretty much everyone to check it.
id install the correct 7.3l gear cover,followed by a fresh ip and set of injectors.
set her timing to 6 or 5 degrees ATDC/ 8 or 9 BTDC and she'd run like a raped ape.
no matter what the thing is in the end,right now you need to apply this info before you can drive her:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ning-info.html
i see a 6.9l oil fill neck.
i see an incorrectly tuned engine.
my guess is,she's the '93 7.3l turbo engine,but she had her gear cover removed,and then lost/ruined so a 6.9l was replaced.by the looks of the crazy advanced ip,id say it's clear this engine is extremely de-tuned.
id be pulling a valve cover to see the head bolt size anyway.then id pull the gear cover,correctly line up the timing gears,by the looks of that ip placement she's way out of whack and that's how they cheated the thing to run. -- thats not the first time iv seen this done here on the forum.i bet its far more common than most of us know too.the more iv read about idi's reported as being dog's then thinking some more about how commonly the gear covers get removed,the more i think this.so iv added more info on that in the link below,to encourage pretty much everyone to check it.
id install the correct 7.3l gear cover,followed by a fresh ip and set of injectors.
set her timing to 6 or 5 degrees ATDC/ 8 or 9 BTDC and she'd run like a raped ape.
no matter what the thing is in the end,right now you need to apply this info before you can drive her:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ning-info.html
#28
ok thanks guys. will im not to happy right now i just spent a lot of mony on 7.3 parts and now there not going to work. maybe i mite sale this truck and all the parts or try and find a 7.3 engin. for all the stuff i bought. i just dont know i love being lied to and now i cant trust anything ealse the PO told me he did.
#29