Well for my 2000th post, I thought I would post something at least a little worthwhile for a change.

I have made some progress over the last month. Not much but it is progress.
I got my steering column sort of fixed. A machine shop fixed my mushrooming of the shaft, but the nut doesn't easily thread all the way down. I think it's because the shaft is a little misshapen. It should work for me though.


I also started working on the steering wheel. I got the jb weld in the cracks, now I'm sanding....and sanding....and sanding....It's going to be used as a truck so it doesn't have to be perfect, right? I'm sure it will look pretty good once painted.
Well here is it shortly after getting all the epoxy on:




I also got the drive shaft cleaned and painted. Now to replace the carrier bearing and the u-joints. I have the carrier bearing, but I need to get the old one off. I do have a question on that.
I need to get a puller, but is there anything special I need to do? I'm thinking of the part ont he far right, 4833, the coupling shaft support? will it just come with the bearing when I put the puller on it?


My wife was gone for a few hours the other day, so I started the engine up for fun. It still ran fine and seemed to oil the top ok. I need to get an oil pressure gauge on it. My 9 year old, busted me and told Momma what I did. I got the "The whole house smells like gas" line... Which reminds me, I need to adjust the carb sometime. I'm thinking I'm running real rich.

 

I rebuilt a fuel pump today. The house reeked of kerosene for a while. She's going to get used to it sooner or later. I hope.

 

I painted my truck's heater several years ago in my basement workshop since it was below freezing outside and also too cold in my detached garage to spraypaint. When my wife got home from shopping she said the house smelled like paint! Ouch!

 

Smells go away after awhile. Just make some liver and onions for dinner and then she'll be happy.

 

Well, I've made some progress. When I took my daily driver to get inspected I just took in my driveshaft and had them put my new carrier bearing on. Now I'm just waiting for Christmas to get my U-joints and put the driveshaft back on.


I have also been working on the emergency brake parts, cleaning and painting.
After seeing Jolly Roger Joe change his brake band, I went ahead and removed my old one. I was hesitant because taking a drill to a part like this is scary for someone like me. It went very smooth. Now to get rivets and brake material.


My emergency brake handle is also cleaned and painted. It could you another coat or two though.

 

Looking good Joe.

We're at about the same stage with the drive shafts, park brake and u-joints. I still have to clean up my park brake handle.

I got the rivets from McMaster-Carr yesterday, and this morning got a notice that the brake lining material will be here Monday. They ship the day you order, but the rivets came locally from CA and the brake lining is coming from Chicago. Still, fast shipping.

 

Be sure to take pictures and share. How are you going to drill the counter sink in the brake material for the rivets?

 

I was reading this from Earl's World:

" A 5/16" diameter brad-point drill bit made nice, flat-bottomed holes in the brake lining for the brass rivets. I finished up those holes in the lining by drilling through with a 5/32" diameter drill."

So I'm going to try it that way. I bought extra lining material, so I can practice on that.

Here's the Earl's World page...

http://www.clubfte.com/users/earl/Page11.html

 

I haven't read that part of Earl's world closely, I've just looked at the pictures. (I like pictures. )
I measured mine and it is the same length as your's, so it looks like 3 feet is is. I hadn't thought about using the extra to practice. Good thinking.

I noticed he used the spring type cotter pin instead of the standard.

 

Well I had a few minutes and I thought I would look at my drag link components.
Notice the three circles on the left next to the drag link....well that is what is left of one of the springs. Looks like I need to replace the sets. I probably should have anyway, steering is kind of important.

 

Wow, I just thought I would go online and see if the local stores had the drag link end kits.
Well O'Reilly as them for $157, Napa $119, AutoZone for $114, Napa $119, Advance Auto $53
Mid fifty has it for $49 and Macs $30.
I guess it can really pay to shop around.
Oh yeah, Advance Auto calls the tie rod a drag link..... It was amazing how much more a tie rod is at the local shops as well.

 

Be sure your getting the right part. Especially if ya have to order it on line.
Part numbers go a long way towards this.

 

Yeah, I've learned my lesson on that. Since I have a F250 many parts are the same as the F100, but others aren't.....My latest were the speed bleeders for wheel cylinders....

 

Alright I got ta ask. What's a speed bleeder?

 

They are bleeders which have a ball/spring check valve inside. You crack them loose and they let fluid or air under pressure out, but do not let air back in when your foot comes off of the pedal. They are great when your wife isn't interested and your son would rather play video games. You can bleed the brakes by yourself - even on the roadside. Just don't leave them loose.