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Fixed - Parasitic Battery Drain

 
  #91  
Old 06-20-2013, 10:08 PM
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Wow, nice find and thanks for posting your fix.
 
  #92  
Old 06-27-2013, 12:12 PM
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Yep, the wifey definately deserves some Kudos for that.

ON wifey!!!
 
  #93  
Old 06-30-2013, 11:36 PM
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Current draw

G'day Fellas,

I've been trying for some time to trace my battery draining issue.

I ensured everything was off.

I disconnected both the + terminals and hooked up a lamp in series with one + cable and that battery's + terminal.

The lamp glows pretty well so there is an obvious drain at rest.
The first thing I did was to disconnect the alternator by disconnecting the heavy positive cable. I observed no change in the lamp intensity.


So I then started pulling every fuse to see if there is a change in the lamp intensity.

Fuse #114 (20A) - Radio had a slight effect on dimming the lamp intensity.
Fuse # 105 (50A) - Junction Box Battery Feed had the effect of the lamp going out altogether. Fuse in lamp comes on fuse out lamp out.

I'm not sure what or where the Junction Box Battery Feed actually is?? I traced it to the fender wall. The Alternator cable connects into there also.

Anyway should this Junction Box Battery Feed be always drawing a current? So fellas what is the thoughts on this?
Being as named 'Junction Box Battery Feed' would pulling Fuse # 105 and the lamp going out be expected or is there a fault there causing my battery drain???

Cheers,
Reg
 

Last edited by Diesel Submariner; 07-04-2013 at 03:20 AM. Reason: Updateing questions
  #94  
Old 07-04-2013, 03:24 AM
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Any Thoughts?

Originally Posted by Diesel Submariner View Post
G'day Fellas,

I've been trying for some time to trace my battery draining issue.

I ensured everything was off.

I disconnected both the + terminals and hooked up a lamp in series with one + cable and that battery's + terminal.

The lamp glows pretty well so there is an obvious drain at rest.
The first thing I did was to disconnect the alternator by disconnecting the heavy positive cable. I observed no change in the lamp intensity.


So I then started pulling every fuse to see if there is a change in the lamp intensity.

Fuse #114 (20A) - Radio had a slight effect on dimming the lamp intensity.
Fuse # 105 (50A) - Junction Box Battery Feed had the effect of the lamp going out altogether. Fuse in lamp comes on fuse out lamp out.

I'm not sure what or where the Junction Box Battery Feed actually is?? I traced it to the fender wall. The Alternator cable connects into there also.

Anyway should this Junction Box Battery Feed be always drawing a current? So fellas what is the thoughts on this?
Being as named 'Junction Box Battery Feed' would pulling Fuse # 105 and the lamp going out be expected or is there a fault there causing my battery drain???

Cheers,
Reg
Any thoughts on this fellas?
 
  #95  
Old 07-04-2013, 09:05 AM
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Fuse #105 on a US '03 F-250 is the fuel heater circuit according to the owners manual.
Available online at https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp

I am not familiar with that circuit so have no knowledge of what sensor would deactivate the heater.

I would expect that the heater is not being activated / disabled properly with the result that you are observing via the lamp test.
 
  #96  
Old 07-04-2013, 07:30 PM
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FUSES

Originally Posted by shorebird View Post
Fuse #105 on a US '03 F-250 is the fuel heater circuit according to the owners manual.
Available online at https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp

I am not familiar with that circuit so have no knowledge of what sensor would deactivate the heater.

I would expect that the heater is not being activated / disabled properly with the result that you are observing via the lamp test.
G'day Shorebird,

Even if there is a difference in the fuse positions and numbering (the Aussie truck Fuel Heater fuse is #30 - 30A and is in the under dash fuse panel), I'm guessing that your trucks would also have the 'Junction Box Battery Feed' fused.

My question is if you did what I did in searching for my battery drain and found when you pulled whatever # Fuse is for your 'Junction Box Battery Feed', would the lamp be expexted to go out?

Has anybody pulled that fuse during their battery drain trouble shoot?

I'm trying to avoid pulling that 'Junction Box' out and stripping it down or exchanging it.
I don't know it's designed purpose other than the self explaned title 'Junction Box' and it may or may not be defective in showing a current with everthing in and on the truck switched off??

As I say, when that fuse was pulled it was the only one that had any effect on the test lamp.

Cheers,
Reg
 
  #97  
Old 07-05-2013, 12:07 AM
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OK, this topic has been on my to do list for a while. For the longest time I though my Optimas just wouldn't hold a good charge anymore. It appears it parasitic draw. This was tough with just myself, but I used vice grips to hold my leads to the cable and post.

I have a constant .20A draw. When I unplug fuse #14(Dome light, Courtesy lamp, Cargo Lamp, Running board lamp) it jumps to .35A for about 20 seconds then returns to .20 even though the lights are off.

The next one is one I think is the problem, #15(Stop lamp switch, GEM, PCM, 4 wheel ABS, Brake shift interlock, Cluster, PCM keep alive memory). Load goes from .20A to .03A unplugged.

What finally got me going on tracking this down is that my new Edge CTS Insight display is randomly staying lit up overnight with the key off. It seems the PCM isn't shutting off all the time.

Any idea of what to do next??
 
  #98  
Old 03-29-2016, 12:19 PM
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Has anyone had this caused by a bad ignition switch?
 
  #99  
Old 03-29-2016, 02:16 PM
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Mine is draining over night. The battery drain is 3.5A !! The alternator is warm.
Should I replace the alternator first or ..... ?
 
  #100  
Old 03-29-2016, 08:02 PM
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Probably,atleast get alternator tested.
 
  #101  
Old 03-29-2016, 09:43 PM
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Fred,

Best guess is that one of the diodes in the alternator is shorted, causing the battery to drain through one of the stator windings.

The symptoms are there.

FTE's most-common advice is to have YOURS rebuilt by a competent rebuild shop, and NOT just exchange it at the parts house for one that was someone else's problem just a few short weeks ago before some guy making minimum wage "fixed" it.

Pop
 
  #102  
Old 04-01-2016, 05:51 PM
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In the alternator world, cheaper is never better.
 
  #103  
Old 04-09-2016, 01:22 PM
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I'M HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM, AND THE BRAND NEW 700 AMP BATTERY WILL NOT LAST 2 DAYS AND THEN IT HAS TO BE CHARGED. IF I TAKE OFF THE POS. BATT. CABLE IT WILL START ANYTIME, BUT OPENING THE HOOD EVERY TIME YOU WANT TO TAKE OFF OR PARK IS A PAIN. I'M HOPING ONE OF YOU FOLKS WILL HAVE THE ANSWER IM'M LOOKING FOR. GOOD LUCK
 
  #104  
Old 04-09-2016, 01:28 PM
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I HAVE 3 WIRES FROM THE BATT. 1. STARTER CABLE TO STARTER. 2. ALT. WIRES AND 3.THERE IS A WIRE LOOM THE GOES BETWEEN THE RIGHT FENDER AND THE BATT. WHEN I DISCONNECT THE ALT. AND STARTER CABLES THE ONE GOING BEHIND THE BATT. SHOWS A DRAW. AND A LITTLE SPARK WHEN YOU FIRST HOOK IT UP OR DISCONNECT IT. I SUPPOSE THAT'S THE LOOM GOING TO THE FUSE PANEL
 
  #105  
Old 04-09-2016, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sinaiflash2 View Post
I HAVE 3 WIRES FROM THE BATT. 1. STARTER CABLE TO STARTER. 2. ALT. WIRES AND 3.THERE IS A WIRE LOOM THE GOES BETWEEN THE RIGHT FENDER AND THE BATT. WHEN I DISCONNECT THE ALT. AND STARTER CABLES THE ONE GOING BEHIND THE BATT. SHOWS A DRAW. AND A LITTLE SPARK WHEN YOU FIRST HOOK IT UP OR DISCONNECT IT. I SUPPOSE THAT'S THE LOOM GOING TO THE FUSE PANEL
HI, WELCOME TO THE BROTHERHOOD OF FTE, WHILE WE DO THE BEST WE CAN TO HELP WE RECOMMEND SEARCHING AS WELL, WHAT TROUBLESHOOTING HAVE YOU DONE SO FAR? TRY PULLING THE BATTERIES AND TEST FOR PARICITIC DRAW WITHOUT THEM IN THE TRUCK, THEN WORK THROUGH THE REST OF THE SYSTEM, PIECE BY PIECE.


(Ps you may want to fix your keyboard, as it appears to be jammed as this is like the third post you made with ALL CAPS it is not nice to yell at those who are trying to assist you)
 

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