So right now, I am looking at either spacers, a body lift, or putting in f250 coil springs and an Add a leaf. which will be cheapest, and which will be the best as far as quality of the truck

 

my 2" front spacers were $75 shipped from ebay, bodylift is around $120ish and alot more work to install then the springs or the spacers but you wont need an allignment afterwards. just make sue your rad support is not rotten or you wil ave to replace tha first before a bodylift.

for my front spacers and rear blocks i spent ~$175 in parts and still need an alignment before new tires.

 

I have heard that by putting spacers on my coil springs, I would make the ride stiffer, since my springs would be compressed. I think becauseof this I might just use 2wd f250 coil springs in the front and AAL in the rear. What is your opinion on this method

 

Adding the spacers just move the axle the 2" farther away, of it was compressing the springs more to make it a former ride 2" spacer would be pointless. It won't change the ride quality. The f250 springs will make it stiffer.

Think of it like the rear, adding a 1" block isn't going to change how stiff the ride is, swapping 150 for 250 springs will gain a bit of height but will also make it rougher

 

Ok now I understand. Does putting the spacer and block in leave agap between the bumper and body? I've heard that a body lift can give you this problem, and I'm not 100% sure what the difference is between that and the spacers. Sorry if my questions are simple, I'm
Just learning all this

 

The spring spacers go in the suspension so it doesn't affect the body/bumper it just moves the axle farther from the frame.

The body lift atually lifts the body off of the frame and spacers are between body and frame. Which is what makes the bumper gap since the bumper is bolted to the frame not the body. But you can get/make brackets to bring the bumper up to the new height of the body.

 

Ok, i have decided to go with 2" front spacers and a 2" rear block, then to either go with 31's or 32's. Can anyone tell me what size tire i could put on and keep my factory wheel? i currently have on the 235/75r/15. Would this translate to 32/11.5/15?

 

235/75/15 is a 28 x 9.25"r15. I'm putting 33/12.5r15 on my stock wheels soon. A 32/11.5r15 would fit a bit better for clearance then the 33" would

 

I know that it will fit height wise, but will the width/depth of the tire fit on my stock rims?

 

Mickey Thompson MTZ 32x 11.5x 15s on stock wheels with stock suspension, no problems whatsoever... Gives some decent sidewall sticking out too as to keep from curbing your wheels all the time!

 

12.5" wide tire they recommend 8-10" wide wheel but I'm using my stock 7.5"wide rim.

An I would think a 11.5" wide tire would recommend a 7-9" wide rim

 

oh, so tires are not that specific? they have a few inches to give either way as far as rim size?

 

Most brand names have a "suggested" size. You don't want to go wider then the recommended size as it will be easier for the tire to pop the bead. From what I have read some guys go a little narrower then recommended ( like me puting 12.5" wide tires on a 7.5" rim) then if you go play in the rocks you can lower your air pressure and it will stay on the rim better.
Also with the narrower rim it gives the tire a bit more of a "balloon" look.

But I believe the general rule is to be around 2-4" wider then the rim. For the larger tires

 

I like to look at Summit Racing website for tire specs . For instance a ProComp 32/11.50x15 actually is 31.3 high , 12.20 wide and 8.8 tread width .and requires a minimum 8 in. wheel and a maximum of 10 in. wide

 

I think this will be your best bet. Sure you'll need an alingment but the TTB suspension is notorious for needing more frequent alignments anyway.
I'd stay away from rear AAL because you'll need a kidney belt to ride in the truck if your not hauling anything. I had cheap Rough Country AAL for about two weeks before I tore them back out.