So I started a thread about the cheapest way to lift my truck in the past. I got a lot of good information.

My truck is a 79 f150 custom 4x4.

So I'm gonna do the shackle flip to raise it about 2 inches in the rear and lower the coil buckets in the front. I was suggested to get leaf springs off a chebby 3500, there 64 inch eye to eye, for a softer ride. I'v been thinking and I want my truck to ride like a truck, not a cadillac.

I'm gonna be lifting it hopefully within a week or two.
So my questions are..

Since I'm gonna be using the stock leaf springs do I need lower hangers in the front of the leaf springs?

Will 2 inches affect anything like brake lines, any lines for that matter, driveshaft angle front and rear, pitman arm, stearing shaft, or anything you can think of?

Can I use the stock shocks front and rear?

Will in need longer radius arms or lower mounts?

Anything you will think it will affect let me know cause I'm on a tight budget.

And lastly, when I got new tires I asked the guy what's the biggest tire I can put on it without a lift he said 30's. But if you ask me they look to little.
So what is the size tire do you recommend for a 2 inch lift?

These may seem like dumb questions but I'v never lifted a truck.

Thanks guys!

 

My rig had a 2-inch Rancho lift coils and two extra leafs in the back before I went with a 4-inch. It still wears the same 35x12.5x15 Goodyear Wranglers on 15x8s.

• Brake lines/hoses need not be extended.
• Reused the same (Ranch RS5000) shocks
• You will need to use 2° C-bushings... radius arms are unaffected but their angle will change, hence the need for new C-bushings.
• The driveshafts' slip yoke will extend just a bit. Not until a 6-inch lift does one require a longer driveshaft (or so I have read).
• The steering shaft's relative position abd length between the steering wheel and steering box is unaffected.
• The pitman arm (actually the drag link) will compensate for the change in relative position of the axle. Geometry will be okay.
• Tires - I'd go with 33s... the physical size of 35s varies from brand to brand.
• Hanger flip - nope, ya need not lower the front hangers.

 

why not just do a 2" block in the rear? Simple, easy, and cheap.

 

Larry had a little lamb whos fleece was rusty and red

 

Here's a pretty cheap kit from rough country. It comes with new front springs, 7degree bushings, a new trac bar bracket, all new shocks, and your choice of new rear leafs, or 2" blocks. With this kit you could probably run 35s no problem, but I personally like the look of 33s better.
http://www.roughcountry.com/suspensi...0_77-79_4.html

 

Thanks for ALL that great information!!

 

Thanks for you opinion. I'm not scared of constructed criticism.
It actually will help me in my decision!

But I have some questions.
I might just get the blocks for the rear. Anybody got a good site for just the blocks? I couldn't find any.
But the way I was thinking of doing it wouldn't cost me anything but grade A bolts.
~Whats wrong with lowering the coil buckets?
I was gonna cut the bottom part of the bucket that wraps around the frame with the bump stop on it, and weld it to the bucket.
I'v seen alot of people that do the shackle flip.
~What will it affect?

And I'm not trying to be rude but I wont you're opinion.

 

Removing the factory rivets can be a bit of a pain. Why not get taller springs? Correct me if I'm wrong, but with a 4wd front end it should work..?


If I could get my truck to ride like my Cadillac does, I'd probably do it



Jameson

 

There's bolts holding on the coil buckets. And there's nothing wrong with the springs I have, I'v alwase heard "if it ain't broke dont fix it"
And I'm trying to lift it without spending any dough. (I was recently laid off.)
btw this ain't my dd, tryna make in a mini mudder.

 

Larry wanted a lifted truck

 

i lifted my 79 150 4x4 by lowering the buckets and adding blocks
i got my blocks made at the spring works
what i always say why buy what you can build

 

what ever you do, dont use blocks. if you insist on using blocks, DO NOT STACK THEM. use a single one the correct height. shackle flip is the best way to go for the rear end and will net you about 4-5 inches. just did it to my 96.

 

Just so yall know I MEANT GRADE 8, I dont know why I put grade A.

I'm hearing 'not to shackle flip' and 'to shackle flip' I'm getting confused

customrich&matt said he lowered his coil buckets then I'm hearing 'not to lower them'

kobaltblue I might just get that body lift from you, it just depends where you live and how much shipping will be.

As you can tell my old lady dont want me putting money into my rig to lift it she says its to high as it is. But what does she know

I'm not sure about the rear blocks all I want is 2 or 3 inches. So I will think about that one.
impalaslayer whats wrong with using blocks?

Thanks for the advice guys and keep it comming. I need help deciding.

 

wife said no

 

I totally agree. It's much better to buy a kit that gives you everything you need. The engineers that make lift kits have already done all the engineering for you so it takes out the guess work. Buying a lift kit will ensure that your truck has been modified correctly and will most likely be much safer then anything you could fab up. Its your truck so do what you want, but personally I wouldn't bother trying to "rig" something together when you could buy a complete 2.5" kit for just over $300 and a 4" kit for around $350. that's just my $00.02 good luck with your build though! I can't wait to see her lifted