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FAQ - Could use some help w/ duraspark wiring problems

 
  #16  
Old 09-29-2011, 11:40 PM
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I don't get why you insist on doing things the hard way, mainegoatman.

You were UNSUCCESSFUL with a "custom" wire diagram you found on some internet site called junkyardidiot. So now you are going to trust another "custom" wire diagram from some outfit called "dirt cheap ignition?" Why would you rather rig up your truck than use the correct wire diagram that was designed by REAL engineers from Ford Motor Company that has been used in MILLIONS of vehicles reliably for over 30 years?

You originally had problems because your wiring was hacked up and you were trying to run the incorrect coil. Then, you buy the correct coil and bracket, but purchase a GM HEI ignition module instead?

And if you actually trust that "crossbreed" ignition, that article tells you that you can run the TFI coil you originally had, and the resistor wire you just bought is not needed.

Why didn't you just get the correct Duraspark ignition module and run your ignition and wiring the way it was safely designed and engineered to run?
 
  #17  
Old 09-30-2011, 04:25 AM
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Here's the link to the test procedure from 'Phurst's' Runs Progressively Worse thread..

Duraspark - Troubleshooting - BumpWiki


The thread itself; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-i-drive.html
 
  #18  
Old 09-30-2011, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by LARIAT 85 View Post
I don't get why you insist on doing things the hard way, mainegoatman.

You were UNSUCCESSFUL with a "custom" wire diagram you found on some internet site called junkyardidiot. So now you are going to trust another "custom" wire diagram from some outfit called "dirt cheap ignition?" Why would you rather rig up your truck than use the correct wire diagram that was designed by REAL engineers from Ford Motor Company that has been used in MILLIONS of vehicles reliably for over 10 years?

You originally had problems because your wiring was hacked up and you were trying to run the incorrect coil. Then, you buy the correct coil and bracket, but purchase a GM HEI ignition module instead?

And if you actually trust that "crossbreed" ignition, that article tells you that you can run the TFI coil you originally had, and the resistor wire you just bought is not needed.

Why didn't you just get the correct Duraspark ignition module and run your ignition and wiring the way it was safely designed and engineered to run?
I agree with the "Ford Purist" thing. I was trying to keep it that way.

I guess I didn't make the sequence of events very clear.

I was assuming my problem was the white wire to the module and/or the resister to the coil based on information from other posts. I did test the duraspark module and it was good. It's still on the truck and I could hook it back up if I wanted to.

I replaced the coil just because it was suggested and the other one tested on the low end of acceptable. I figured since I was going need the truck to plow with this winter it would be a good thing to do. I added the correct resister at the same time.

I still had the same problem... At this point, after working on this outside in the rain for hours (I guess you had to be there) I took a GM 4 pin module that I had left over (free-not purchased) from a small block chevy and installed it and the truck ran (temporarily). I used this method to trouble shoot and eliminate the white wire problem. The fact that it still ran after the starter was disengaged told me it wasn't the white wire as suggested in other posts.

This led me to go back and consider what else it could be. That is when I tested the pickup coil and found it was bad. Yes, I'm guilty of not testing it at the beginning, that was the point of my last post - so other people could learn from my experience.

If you could see the wiring on this truck, you would understand that when I get done the whole thing will be "custom wiring". Sometimes things in life are not always black and white.

Under the circumstances I think I will leave the GM ign . module. It may not be a Ford part, but the operating principle is valid. With the GM module it actually ran long enough for me to realize the problem was the pickup. I assume that was because it creates a hotter spark. It eliminated the need for the white wire (one of my problems) and the need for the resister wire. If you read other posts on this forum and you will see that there are many other people doing this conversion.

Thanks for your interest in my post.
 
 
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