Just an update to a post I had a couple of days ago... I have tried everything oiled all the moving parts(upper and lower arm bushings, tie rod ends.....) on the pass side and still the dreaded noise. According to some posts I am leaning towards the lower ball joint. There is absolutley no play when I jack the truck and move the wheel at the 12 and 6 positions. Are these ball joints known to get noisey without showing any wear. The noise happens when I go over bumps or push the front bumper up and down. It also makes the noise when you turn the steering wheel a little back and forth. When you jack the truck and turn the wheel it does not make the noise you must have full weight on the truck. Ball joints are only 23 bucks for the bottom, but I would hate to change them for no reason. 1999 F-150 Scab 4x4 38,000 miles.

 

I had a sound that i could have sworn was a ball joint. turned out to be a shock. no creaking noise though

 

I had the exact same problem on an Explorer today. They use a very similar suspension. It had 40,000 kms or about 25,000 miles on it. The right lower ball joint made a terrible noise but it felt tight. I replaced the ball joint and the noise was gone.

 

I took the shock out and still had the noise. Leaning towards a ball joint. Anyone change one on a 99 how hard is it?

 

It's not too hard but you'll need a 36mm socket for the axle nut and a ball joint press along with 15,18,21 mm sockets, a good jack and jack stands. Compressed air and an impact would be helpful too.
If you decide to tackle it I can post instructions.

 

Thanks Racerguy, I would appreciate that, I have all the tools. Will have to rent the ball joint press.

 

I do these regularly at work but when it comes to typing out what to do I will probably forget something

If you dont have an air impact I would start by removing the nut on the end of the axle, with the truck still on the ground. Remove the cotter pin and retainer so you can get at the nut.
Then jack it up and put jack stands under it.
Remove the wheel.
Unbolt the brake caliper bracket from the steering knuckle and tie it back to the frame or wherever. Dont just let it hang by the hose. Remove the rotor if it will come off easily. If not just leave it.
Unplug the ABS sensor wire where it attaches inside the inner fender. You can reach it through the hole in the inner fender above the upper control arm. Unclip it from the brake hose etc so it is hanging free.
I always leave the tie rod end connected and just swing the knuckle out of the way but if you want to remove the whole works you can remove the tie rod end now.
Remove the cotter pin and nut from the upper ball joint. Give the knuckle a whack with a big hammer right next to where the ball joint stud goes in. It should pop apart.
Push in on the end of the axle to make sure it is loose in the hub. If it doesnt push in you may need to hold a piece of wood to the end of the axle and hit it a few times to break it free.
Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut. Take a big hammer and hit the side of the knuckle where the ball joint stud goes in and it should pop out.
Turn the steering the whole way to the side of the truck you are working on. This makes the knuckle swing out far enough to get the axle out of the hub.
Be careful to not pull the axle too far out so you dont pop the CV joint apart. You'd probably have to really pull on it to do that but some people can do amazing things
Now tie the knuckle (unless you removed the tie rod end, then you remove the whole knuckle now)and axle out of the way so you can press the ball joint out and the new one in with the tool.
Put it together in reverse of how you pulled it apart. Use new cotter pins everywhere you took one out.
The axle nut gets torqued to 188-254 lb.ft......very tight.

Let me know if I need to clarify any of this