I'll be installing mine tomorrow potentially. I also have my new lift and tires/wheels too, but need to get one done for sure. We'll see.

 

Potentially, the shavings left in the exhaust manifold can get sucked up into the turbo housing/Intercooler and pushed into either the turbo or the intake.

FWIW, I used a small magnet and shove it into the hole to pull out the shavings on my OBS truck when doing the Pyro drill and tap. No issues.

 

Q. I was wondering where to get the power from as well, is the headlight wire the agreed on wire to get power from?

A. Buy a couple add a circuit's and in the fuse box, find a fuse with "power" only when key is On.
Here's the way I have it now because I didn't have any add a circuits when I did the install and still being lazy to install the one's I bought.





Q. How do you get the guages mounted in the pod?
A. They should've come with some foam strips that peel and stick. I think stuck mine on the guage itself, but is probably a ton better if stuck on the inside of pod.

Q. do you use the black bevel piece that comes with the guages?
A. I believe that is for mounting in the metal guage bracket, not the pillar pod.

Q. I will be installing trans temp,water temp,exaust gas temp,and I also opted for the digital gs-tco2 air fuel ratio/boost gauge. Can I even use the air fuel ratio part of the gauge with the 7.3?

A. I have no clue, sorry.

Q. One more thing what is the common method of attaching the gauge pod to the factory pod? (supplied screws and caps?)

A. That's the secure way, however I didn't want to drill into my factory pillar, so I used 3M double sided tape.
I you bought 4 guages, you probably bought the gauge pod as well. If that's the case I would think it would install like tha factory and stay, but I may be wrong.


Here's where I tapped into for the Boost.



EGT



Tap: Go to a real hardware store and you can buy them individually. Go slow when making the threads.



Gauge installed.




Disclaimer: This is the way I chose to do it, not saying it's the only way, right way, or saying anyone one should install them this way. Informational purposes only.

 

Sorry Mang, thinking back, I drilled super slow (no lubricant) and then stuck the shop vac where I drilled. It's been a while, haven't had an issue.

 

Really?

How so? Is there some passage way I dont know about from the exhaust side to the intake side?

Just cant wrap my head around how shavings in the EXHAUST manifold could get on the INTAKE side of the motor...

Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

I've installed 50-70 EGT gauges over the years... Drill... Tap... Install...

Christ people, do you live somewhere that they turn the gravity off? Your drilling up right? Do things fall up where you live?

 

LOL, you're right, I don't know why I put engine. But you still don't want the metal pieces going through the turbo.

 

Watch this video...

ford turbo jet engine - YouTube

Now tell me if you think one or twenty small cast iron shavings are going to hurt the hardened exhaust wheel...

I'm not ****ting when I say I have installed dozens of these things, and never have I done anything more then, drill, tap, install.

Even on Cummins where your drilling up, I just drill away and tap and install.

Now I am being a bit of a pain, but I just hate people thinking installing a pyro is some super scary and dangerous thing.

Drill, Tap, Install.

 

I tend to agree with you on the pyro install. Its a little different on the boost install though into the spyder. That was more of what I was referring to. No reason to come off as arrogant as you are though.

Adding a small magnet "just in case" is simple. I would never go through the hassle of pulling the exhaust manifold to vacuum it out, but a magnet is a two second process. Cheap insurance IMO.

FWIW, the 3 in 1 Glow shift gauges can easily be installed into the MAP line with a simple T-connector you can pick up at ACE hardware. But, their column gauge kits don't use the same simple sending unit. So, it requires drilling and tapping the Spyder.

 

Part in bold above...

FYI... My introduction...

Dennis Leary - ******* - YouTube

As far as the boost side goes, for sure remove the Y pipe if you intend to drill and tap it... I doubt the aluminum shavings would hurt anything passing thru the valves, but I would not want to find out!

 

Don't let Joe fool ya...




He really just wants to be friends!


(And he is an azzhole)

 

If you like glowshift guages gow with the white face guages they are much better than the black or tinted,or go with someones elses guages just with white faces

 

ISSPRO!!!

 

HOLY SH%^...Thats the baddest video i ever saw...

 

Take a look at my pics, I didn't tap into my spider and I believe we have the same kit. For some reason I didn't want to do it their way and my diesel mech. showed me how to do it, so I went to a real hardware store and came up with what you see.