WE3ZS - Spoke for Ford about the springs. They said the Diesel is rated for 11k lbs and should be fine under that load. They also said it was quite an expensive job . . . Any further thoughts on this? Would you say this is optional or mandatory? What should I expect for cost?

Thanks!

 

Hi all - Ford wasn't sure about the rear sway bar . . . they stated high cost. Purchased a Tekomsha P3.

Finally re Tires. The tires are LRD, however, due to their size (285 75/R16) they actually have a greater load capacity (max load 3305) than many LRE rated tires. Seems the volume of air in the tire is the main determinant of max load capacity.

This is out of a manufactor's data book.
245/75R16 LRE Max Load = 3042 lbs @ 80 psi
265/75R16 LRE Max Load = 3415 lbs @ 80 psi

Interesting . . .

 

I would tell the dealer to stick it up their A$$. I don't tow nearly as heavy as you. However my truck with only 80,000 miles on it and and new ball joints and tie rods still handles like a wet noodle with a load behind it, and to a lesser degree when unloaded. So much so that I am upgrading my springs this weekend. I also have the factory front and rear sway bars and E rated tires running at 70 psi. I would not even consider running a trailer with that size profile with stock springs. Not only would it be uncomfortable, it would be downright dangerous. If the dealer won't do it I would take it to a custom spring shop. I found used springs at a salvage yard from a truck with 50,000 miles on it. Also, its not that expensive if you look around. All 4 corners only cost me $250 in parts. Should be able to do it myself and save $ in labor.

 

I wouldn't tow on load range D tires, even if they were load rated the same. They usually have a softer construction and fewer plies.

The diesel is rated for 11k lbs but its tuned for hauling kids and groceries. The stock springs are very weak once you put some tongue weight on them. If you don't believe me just wait till you get that heavy trailer on there and bounce up and down on every expansion joint. And they were soft new. On an 8 year old truck, even more so. Ordering them from ford they aren't cheap but they shouldn't be more than $1200 for all 4. If they give you a hard time, find another dealer, or order them somewhere else. For the sway bar just get the hellwig.

 

Guys - not questioning you. Just a newbie so don't know any better! Going to get the name of a spring shop & take the plunge.

Maybe i need a more senior service rep at Ford. He didn't even seem to know about the rear sway bar.

 

BTW the hitch weigh is 815lbs

 

Hey j4henry - What brand of airbags did you use? Approximate cost? Thx

 

Firestone on rear and air lift on the front. The reason i say this will be a trial and error process is I ran bags in the rear first but still had quite a few "white knuckle" experiences, so I decided to put the front ones on an that did the trick for me I run 55psi in the front and 60psi in the rear. Good luck what ever you decide to do

 

I have $550 all together, I got them of ebay

 

j4henry - do you remember the model number for the Firestone?

 

Although airbags may help the tried and proven way to stabilize the Ex is with V code front springs and either RAS or modified B code rear springs, larger rear sway bar, shocks. I am using the V/mod B and it is a very stable towing platform. My trailer is 10500lbs loaded with 1100-1300lbs tongue weight. A good WD sway hitch is also needed. Hensley and propride are the top with equalizer and Reese dual cam being a step below. Of the mid grade hitches I prefer the dual cam over the EQ as it is keeping sway from starting vs controlling it after it starts. With a trailer of that length and no towing experience be very careful and take your time. If you are experiencing any sway, make adjustments or slow down. Sway can get out of control very quickly.

 

Thx Red Ex - Have decided to go with the V/B springs and sway bar. I have lots of time and plan to go at a leisurly pace! Looks like hitch weight is 815lbs. Thx

 

Firestone 2251

 

Your trailer's tongue weight will be much higher than 815lbs. That is the manufacturer's base, empty, dry shipping weight. Thats all they are required to provide. Real world weights have to include any and all options over the very base model, propane tanks, battery(s), tools, clothes and so on....... My ToyHauler's advertised TW was 1204lb and the actual "on a trip" weight is 1425lbs (with NO water on board!). The ideal range for TW is around 13 to 15% of the trailer's total weight, that will be higher than the brochure weight also as it is also the base weight. So figure if with all the options, trim and other goodies your actual weight comes in at 9k, your TW should be around 1170lbs! Nearly every travel trailer manufacturer does this, thats why it's so important to get it on the scales and see what you actually are dealing with and make the proper adjustments.
Do you actaully have the Ex at yopur place now? It's easy to check on the rear sway bar to see if you already have one or not. Kneel down and look at your rear axle, if it's there it will be a round bar just over an inch in diameter that is mounted across the front of the axle. It will have several bends to fit the conture with both ends bent towards the front attached to links that go to the frame. If you already have one it's one less thing to worry about, if not the Helwig is good stuff and easy to instal.

 

Thats a long haul from Ft Worth to Toronto for a first time tow, do you know someone that has a trailer you can use to get use to the feel. It won't be the same as the TT you are going to pickup, but may get you use to wide turns, using mirrors, and most important(my thought) backing up. I can't belive how many people can go in D, but are lost in R.