Love some suggestions. 1952 ford f3 build.
#1
Love some suggestions. 1952 ford f3 build.
Hey there all,
I'm new to this so don't laugh when I know just the bare essentials.
Bought a 1952 Ford f3 running and driving flathead v8 . Now I'm deciding what route I want to take ...
I want to stick to mostly original except , I am mainly wondering since its an f3 (3/4 ton) it's geared really low and what I was thinking is to:
1. Swap the carb for a 4 barrel edelbrock carb
2. Swap The heads for edelbrock heads
3. Do different exhaust and headers
With that I would also like to change the gearing of the rear diff. To allow for more speed and not such a low gearing ratio.
Is this possible has anyone done this or does anyone have any suggestions on what to do so I could get some decent performance yet keeping it still the origonal motor, whether swap in an f-100 rear diff or what .
This is just one of the many things I'll be thinking about during this build and everyone's help and suggestions about anything and everything would be a great help!
Thanks .
I'm new to this so don't laugh when I know just the bare essentials.
Bought a 1952 Ford f3 running and driving flathead v8 . Now I'm deciding what route I want to take ...
I want to stick to mostly original except , I am mainly wondering since its an f3 (3/4 ton) it's geared really low and what I was thinking is to:
1. Swap the carb for a 4 barrel edelbrock carb
2. Swap The heads for edelbrock heads
3. Do different exhaust and headers
With that I would also like to change the gearing of the rear diff. To allow for more speed and not such a low gearing ratio.
Is this possible has anyone done this or does anyone have any suggestions on what to do so I could get some decent performance yet keeping it still the origonal motor, whether swap in an f-100 rear diff or what .
This is just one of the many things I'll be thinking about during this build and everyone's help and suggestions about anything and everything would be a great help!
Thanks .
#2
Hi, we've all been there at one time or another.
It's all very do-able. My 48 F1 has run similar mods since '01.
Just be careful with your 4 bbl. 390 cfm is all that a stock flathead can inhale due to the restricted breathing. More than that risks high fuel consumption, washing cylinder walls with excess gas, poor performance from running rich, etc, etc.
The half-ton rearend swap would give you two bolt patterns. Look for a lower ratio rear from a 57-72 F250 - still have 8 bolt wheels, but with better road gears.
Tube headers are fun, but don't add much without changing cams, but there's not much wrong with the 52 cam. Avoid cast iron Fentons - they don't fit around the steering gearbox.
Head swaps are good but if you have EAB heads, the compression ratio is similar to some of the aftermarket heads.
It's all very do-able. My 48 F1 has run similar mods since '01.
Just be careful with your 4 bbl. 390 cfm is all that a stock flathead can inhale due to the restricted breathing. More than that risks high fuel consumption, washing cylinder walls with excess gas, poor performance from running rich, etc, etc.
The half-ton rearend swap would give you two bolt patterns. Look for a lower ratio rear from a 57-72 F250 - still have 8 bolt wheels, but with better road gears.
Tube headers are fun, but don't add much without changing cams, but there's not much wrong with the 52 cam. Avoid cast iron Fentons - they don't fit around the steering gearbox.
Head swaps are good but if you have EAB heads, the compression ratio is similar to some of the aftermarket heads.
#3
Hi, we've all been there at one time or another.
It's all very do-able. My 48 F1 has run similar mods since '01.
Just be careful with your 4 bbl. 390 cfi is all that a stock flathead can inhale due to the restricted breathing. More than that risks high fuel consumption, washing cylinder walls with excess gas, poor performance from running rich, etc, etc.
The half-ton rearend swap would give you two bolt patterns. Look for a lower ratio rear from a 57-72 F250 - still have 8 bolt wheels, but with better road gears.
Tube headers are fun, but don't add much without changing cams, but there's not much wrong with the 52 cam. Avoid cast iron Fentons - they don't fit around the steering gearbox.
Head swaps are good but if you have EAB heads, the compression ratio is similar to some of the aftermarket heads.
It's all very do-able. My 48 F1 has run similar mods since '01.
Just be careful with your 4 bbl. 390 cfi is all that a stock flathead can inhale due to the restricted breathing. More than that risks high fuel consumption, washing cylinder walls with excess gas, poor performance from running rich, etc, etc.
The half-ton rearend swap would give you two bolt patterns. Look for a lower ratio rear from a 57-72 F250 - still have 8 bolt wheels, but with better road gears.
Tube headers are fun, but don't add much without changing cams, but there's not much wrong with the 52 cam. Avoid cast iron Fentons - they don't fit around the steering gearbox.
Head swaps are good but if you have EAB heads, the compression ratio is similar to some of the aftermarket heads.
Thanks for the help any information helps for sure.
#4
Hi and welcome to FTE.
there have been lots of posts recently about upgrades to F-2 and F3 trucks. try Google search (since the search feature here does not work well) for topics regarding F-3 trucks and rear ends etc. should get you lots of reading. having said that I know a lot of people look at swapping in a Dana 60? from 60's era F250 (don't quote me on the exact years but google should help or someone else will narrow the dates down for the exact year range that's the right width) that way you maintain the stock 8 lug wheel pattern.
having read a few books about Flatheads there is no doubt that flatheads don't flow real well as compared to modern engines. I would say do the headers and maybe a different carb and intake could help? but probably not really going to do much for performance. I think the Edelbrock heads are probably in the range of 8.5:1 compression ratio vs your stock 6.8 or 7.2?
you could just shave your stock heads or EAB heads (verify clearances and boost your compression that way?
I would look at swapping in a dana 60 and for sure getting rid of the 4 speed non synchro trans and opt for a T98 or other easier shifting trans
also the first thread on here "READ FIRST" has lots of helpful tips and links to info and how-to's etc. including how to post pictures of your new truck for us to see
Someone will be along with better and more info shortly.
Josh
Edit; Ok So Tim and I are on the same track lol he's just a faster typer... Oh and your pictures showed up while I was typing looks like a nice solid start. and possibly 5 star cab option as well, Stainless windshield trim?, 3 piece hood trim, dome light? arm rests on door? drivers door lock?
what heater does it have?
I think I have or had the f-3 5 star hood trim if you need it. I'll have t double check.
oh and one more thing, Whats that white powdery stuff on the fender? looks suspicious...
there have been lots of posts recently about upgrades to F-2 and F3 trucks. try Google search (since the search feature here does not work well) for topics regarding F-3 trucks and rear ends etc. should get you lots of reading. having said that I know a lot of people look at swapping in a Dana 60? from 60's era F250 (don't quote me on the exact years but google should help or someone else will narrow the dates down for the exact year range that's the right width) that way you maintain the stock 8 lug wheel pattern.
having read a few books about Flatheads there is no doubt that flatheads don't flow real well as compared to modern engines. I would say do the headers and maybe a different carb and intake could help? but probably not really going to do much for performance. I think the Edelbrock heads are probably in the range of 8.5:1 compression ratio vs your stock 6.8 or 7.2?
you could just shave your stock heads or EAB heads (verify clearances and boost your compression that way?
I would look at swapping in a dana 60 and for sure getting rid of the 4 speed non synchro trans and opt for a T98 or other easier shifting trans
also the first thread on here "READ FIRST" has lots of helpful tips and links to info and how-to's etc. including how to post pictures of your new truck for us to see
Someone will be along with better and more info shortly.
Josh
Edit; Ok So Tim and I are on the same track lol he's just a faster typer... Oh and your pictures showed up while I was typing looks like a nice solid start. and possibly 5 star cab option as well, Stainless windshield trim?, 3 piece hood trim, dome light? arm rests on door? drivers door lock?
what heater does it have?
I think I have or had the f-3 5 star hood trim if you need it. I'll have t double check.
oh and one more thing, Whats that white powdery stuff on the fender? looks suspicious...
#5
Welcome! Looks like a decent start to a nice project. You're half way ahead of most of us here by having your truck running. Don't tear into it too fast. Most guys that just buy a truck get ambitious and tear down. Then, years later, it's still in pieces all over your garage and outside the house. Maintain the truck and keep it running. It'll tell you what it needs. I concur with at least replacing the rear end with what has been suggested. It's an easy weekend swap. I'd then go through the entire brake system, fuel and electrical. These trucks are simple to work on. Get yourself a manual immediately. It will become your best friend. Oh, and don't be afraid to ask questions.
I also have a set of the F3 5 Star Extra Cab (deluxe) moldings if Josh doesn't have any (I have extra spears to make the set complete).
I also have a set of used F-O-R-D letters that go on the latch panel below the hood and a used V8 emblem that goes on the hood emblem on the front of the hood.
EDIT: I'm not sure on the wheels, are they widowmakers?
I also have a set of the F3 5 Star Extra Cab (deluxe) moldings if Josh doesn't have any (I have extra spears to make the set complete).
I also have a set of used F-O-R-D letters that go on the latch panel below the hood and a used V8 emblem that goes on the hood emblem on the front of the hood.
EDIT: I'm not sure on the wheels, are they widowmakers?
#6
Hi and welcome to FTE.
there have been lots of posts recently about upgrades to F-2 and F3 trucks. try Google search (since the search feature here does not work well) for topics regarding F-3 trucks and rear ends etc. should get you lots of reading. having said that I know a lot of people look at swapping in a Dana 60? from 60's era F250 (don't quote me on the exact years but google should help or someone else will narrow the dates down for the exact year range that's the right width) that way you maintain the stock 8 lug wheel pattern.
having read a few books about Flatheads there is no doubt that flatheads don't flow real well as compared to modern engines. I would say do the headers and maybe a different carb and intake could help? but probably not really going to do much for performance. I think the Edelbrock heads are probably in the range of 8.5:1 compression ratio vs your stock 6.8 or 7.2?
you could just shave your stock heads or EAB heads (verify clearances and boost your compression that way?
I would look at swapping in a dana 60 and for sure getting rid of the 4 speed non synchro trans and opt for a T98 or other easier shifting trans
also the first thread on here "READ FIRST" has lots of helpful tips and links to info and how-to's etc. including how to post pictures of your new truck for us to see
Someone will be along with better and more info shortly.
Josh
Edit; Ok So Tim and I are on the same track lol he's just a faster typer... Oh and your pictures showed up while I was typing looks like a nice solid start. and possibly 5 star cab option as well, Stainless windshield trim?, 3 piece hood trim, dome light? arm rests on door? drivers door lock?
what heater does it have?
I think I have or had the f-3 5 star hood trim if you need it. I'll have t double check.
oh and one more thing, Whats that white powdery stuff on the fender? looks suspicious...
there have been lots of posts recently about upgrades to F-2 and F3 trucks. try Google search (since the search feature here does not work well) for topics regarding F-3 trucks and rear ends etc. should get you lots of reading. having said that I know a lot of people look at swapping in a Dana 60? from 60's era F250 (don't quote me on the exact years but google should help or someone else will narrow the dates down for the exact year range that's the right width) that way you maintain the stock 8 lug wheel pattern.
having read a few books about Flatheads there is no doubt that flatheads don't flow real well as compared to modern engines. I would say do the headers and maybe a different carb and intake could help? but probably not really going to do much for performance. I think the Edelbrock heads are probably in the range of 8.5:1 compression ratio vs your stock 6.8 or 7.2?
you could just shave your stock heads or EAB heads (verify clearances and boost your compression that way?
I would look at swapping in a dana 60 and for sure getting rid of the 4 speed non synchro trans and opt for a T98 or other easier shifting trans
also the first thread on here "READ FIRST" has lots of helpful tips and links to info and how-to's etc. including how to post pictures of your new truck for us to see
Someone will be along with better and more info shortly.
Josh
Edit; Ok So Tim and I are on the same track lol he's just a faster typer... Oh and your pictures showed up while I was typing looks like a nice solid start. and possibly 5 star cab option as well, Stainless windshield trim?, 3 piece hood trim, dome light? arm rests on door? drivers door lock?
what heater does it have?
I think I have or had the f-3 5 star hood trim if you need it. I'll have t double check.
oh and one more thing, Whats that white powdery stuff on the fender? looks suspicious...
As for the emblems I believe I have them all I have the two hood side trims for sure in great condition and a bunch of other chrome pieces in a box just ready for my to go through and see what I have .
The truck cab and front end are in great shape . Running boards have a few issues might opt out with those and buy some new ones from a guy here local . Then there's the box it needs some work. The tail gate as well. Might try finding a better set used then what I have now . The guy put plywood in there to cover the hardwood and the plywood held the moisture and started to rust the box . We will see how it looks when I take the fenders off it looks like they got it the worst !
Thanks for all the help I'm sure these forums are what I'll be getting by with that and my first purchase will be a damn good Manuel do you reccommend any ? Haha .
#7
Welcome! Looks like a decent start to a nice project. You're half way ahead of most of us here by having your truck running. Don't tear into it too fast. Most guys that just buy a truck get ambitious and tear down. Then, years later, it's still in pieces all over your garage and outside the house. Maintain the truck and keep it running. It'll tell you what it needs. I concur with at least replacing the rear end with what has been suggested. It's an easy weekend swap. I'd then go through the entire brake system, fuel and electrical. These trucks are simple to work on. Get yourself a manual immediately. It will become your best friend. Oh, and don't be afraid to ask questions.
I also have a set of the F3 5 Star Extra Cab (deluxe) moldings if Josh doesn't have any (I have extra spears to make the set complete).
I also have a set of used F-O-R-D letters that go on the latch panel below the hood and a used V8 emblem that goes on the hood emblem on the front of the hood.
EDIT: I'm not sure on the wheels, are they widowmakers?
I also have a set of the F3 5 Star Extra Cab (deluxe) moldings if Josh doesn't have any (I have extra spears to make the set complete).
I also have a set of used F-O-R-D letters that go on the latch panel below the hood and a used V8 emblem that goes on the hood emblem on the front of the hood.
EDIT: I'm not sure on the wheels, are they widowmakers?
See now since I'm new to this I'm not sure exactly how I should start . I'm getting my research done now in the next month or so before summer then should I, start by repairing my body work fender by fender and setting them aside as I start to tear it down to the frame . Or should I get all my engine performance my diff swap , do that and get everything mechanically running good and smooth then tear it down for the frame up resto. What do most people do eventually I'm going to do it all, but since the trucks running should I get it all ready then take it out so when I go to put it back together all I have to do is drop it in. I'm sure there's many ways of going about it but what do you suggest ?
As for the trim I have all that the only thing I need I believe is the front F O R D logos I have all but the O or the D can't remember haha.
Thanks again. These forums will be my savior , haha
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#9
What kind of friends are you guys? You take all the fun reply pointers and leave me with the bad news!
Ok, yes, those are "widow makers". All 2wd F-3s and early F-250s have 17" wheels, and they are widow makers. The only exception would be if Mattie2294's truck at some time in the past got Chevy/GMC "AR" wheels swapped on, but they don't look like it in the picture. This gives Mattie2294 something else to do a Google search on. Besides the "widow maker wheel" search words you'll also want to search the technical name which is "Firestone RH-5°". The wheels are very dangerous, and you probably won't find anybody to service them today for insurance, lawyer, and general safety reasons.
Replacement wheel options exist. Here's an old thread that goes into the discussion pretty well. You'll also find other threads when you do your Google search. The subject has been covered pretty well. Replacement wheels will be much easier to find since your truck is a '52 which already has 12" rear drums. And any Dana 60 you find will also have 12" drums that allow use of garden variety 16" F-250 wheels. Keeping the use of your hub caps will require either the 16" period F-2 wheels, or the 17.5s or 19.5s mentioned in the thread.
Also, I'll add my welcome. Glad to have you hanging around, and glad to see another F-3 being saved. Stu
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...9-ford-f3.html
Ok, yes, those are "widow makers". All 2wd F-3s and early F-250s have 17" wheels, and they are widow makers. The only exception would be if Mattie2294's truck at some time in the past got Chevy/GMC "AR" wheels swapped on, but they don't look like it in the picture. This gives Mattie2294 something else to do a Google search on. Besides the "widow maker wheel" search words you'll also want to search the technical name which is "Firestone RH-5°". The wheels are very dangerous, and you probably won't find anybody to service them today for insurance, lawyer, and general safety reasons.
Replacement wheel options exist. Here's an old thread that goes into the discussion pretty well. You'll also find other threads when you do your Google search. The subject has been covered pretty well. Replacement wheels will be much easier to find since your truck is a '52 which already has 12" rear drums. And any Dana 60 you find will also have 12" drums that allow use of garden variety 16" F-250 wheels. Keeping the use of your hub caps will require either the 16" period F-2 wheels, or the 17.5s or 19.5s mentioned in the thread.
Also, I'll add my welcome. Glad to have you hanging around, and glad to see another F-3 being saved. Stu
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...9-ford-f3.html
#10
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Littleton, New Hampshire
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Before you rush out and get that F-250 rear end, here's another option to consider. Since the wheels are going to be a problem you might want to go with a 57-72 F-100 rear. It has a 5x5.5 bolt pattern and wheels would not be a problem. For the front, F-1 brakes and hubs bolt to the F-3 axle so you could have 5x5.5 all around...
#11
Looks like a very nice unmolested truck. Think long and hard about how much you want to cobble it. Remember, it is only original once. Remember too, these were not meant to be high speed drivers, just workers.
And welcome to the forum from an old guy who likes them stock.
And welcome to the forum from an old guy who likes them stock.
#12
What kind of friends are you guys? You take all the fun reply pointers and leave me with the bad news!
Ok, yes, those are "widow makers". All 2wd F-3s and early F-250s have 17" wheels, and they are widow makers. The only exception would be if Mattie2294's truck at some time in the past got Chevy/GMC "AR" wheels swapped on, but they don't look like it in the picture. This gives Mattie2294 something else to do a Google search on. Besides the "widow maker wheel" search words you'll also want to search the technical name which is "Firestone RH-5°". The wheels are very dangerous, and you probably won't find anybody to service them today for insurance, lawyer, and general safety reasons.
Replacement wheel options exist. Here's an old thread that goes into the discussion pretty well. You'll also find other threads when you do your Google search. The subject has been covered pretty well. Replacement wheels will be much easier to find since your truck is a '52 which already has 12" rear drums. And any Dana 60 you find will also have 12" drums that allow use of garden variety 16" F-250 wheels. Keeping the use of your hub caps will require either the 16" period F-2 wheels, or the 17.5s or 19.5s mentioned in the thread.
Also, I'll add my welcome. Glad to have you hanging around, and glad to see another F-3 being saved. Stu
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...9-ford-f3.html
Ok, yes, those are "widow makers". All 2wd F-3s and early F-250s have 17" wheels, and they are widow makers. The only exception would be if Mattie2294's truck at some time in the past got Chevy/GMC "AR" wheels swapped on, but they don't look like it in the picture. This gives Mattie2294 something else to do a Google search on. Besides the "widow maker wheel" search words you'll also want to search the technical name which is "Firestone RH-5°". The wheels are very dangerous, and you probably won't find anybody to service them today for insurance, lawyer, and general safety reasons.
Replacement wheel options exist. Here's an old thread that goes into the discussion pretty well. You'll also find other threads when you do your Google search. The subject has been covered pretty well. Replacement wheels will be much easier to find since your truck is a '52 which already has 12" rear drums. And any Dana 60 you find will also have 12" drums that allow use of garden variety 16" F-250 wheels. Keeping the use of your hub caps will require either the 16" period F-2 wheels, or the 17.5s or 19.5s mentioned in the thread.
Also, I'll add my welcome. Glad to have you hanging around, and glad to see another F-3 being saved. Stu
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...9-ford-f3.html
Thanks all for your help really does make a difference .
#13
Before you rush out and get that F-250 rear end, here's another option to consider. Since the wheels are going to be a problem you might want to go with a 57-72 F-100 rear. It has a 5x5.5 bolt pattern and wheels would not be a problem. For the front, F-1 brakes and hubs bolt to the F-3 axle so you could have 5x5.5 all around...
#14
In case you're not aware, the F2-F3 front fenders, bed, tailgate, rear fenders and running boards are different than on an F1. None of the aforementioned parts are available in reproduction, unlike for the F1. Think twice before you cut or destroy something when removing, especially the body parts. If you're thinking about replacing some of those parts, you'll need to find good originals. The good news is that all front fenders from a 51-52 F2-F6 are the same and all running boards, rear fenders, bed and tailgate are all the same from 48-52 F2-F3.
#15
In case you're not aware, the F2-F3 front fenders, bed, tailgate, rear fenders and running boards are different than on an F1. None of the aforementioned parts are available in reproduction, unlike for the F1. Think twice before you cut or destroy something when removing, especially the body parts. If you're thinking about replacing some of those parts, you'll need to find good originals. The good news is that all front fenders from a 51-52 F2-F6 are the same and all running boards, rear fenders, bed and tailgate are all the same from 48-52 F2-F3.