Need to replace the water pump on my '95 F-250. Steady drip, I think through the weep hole. Been looking through old threads and this is the water pump that is on there.

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So this is termed as the one piece water pump with the 203 stat?

I just want to make sure as I went to NAPA and the guy told me two pumps came up on the screen when we looked it up. One for 154.00 and another for over 300.00.

Now my thermostat housing is sealed with silicon. Is this normal? or is it just supposed to be an o-ring? As far as I know, this will be the first pump change ever for this truck, right at 274k now.

Do I have to drain the coolant through the block ports? Wasn't so long ago that I did a change to CAT ELC, and would rather not mess around with draining it all again. Any problems with air getting into the system, or should it be able to purge it?

Also, in my research, I decided to go figure out my engine serial number and it's a mess underneath (rust/grime), but I was able to sketch with a pencil and find 2U162706. Does that seem right?

 

I would get a nice clean container and drain the radiator and then get a different container and pull the hoses. I did that and didn't make too much off a mess mainly pulling the top hose off.

 

You can also use a siphon pump to remove the coolant as well.

You shouldn't need the silicone... but if you want to put a dab around it you can if it makes you feel better.

$154 sounds right for a water pump on these engines.

 

I would get A new thermostat housing don't even try to mess with the old one it will pizzu off for the extra $ it is worth it and you will not need to put slickycone on it it will seal with the o ring .I bought my last pump off of Ebay( Northern Auto parts) for $100 and a new housing for $20 3 years ago and have had no troubles

 

The fan is a pita to get off if you can rent tools do it! Otherwise a vise grip on the pully and a large channel lock will take it off, its left hand thread. Get a 6 point socket too if possible, with that many miles and never been off the steel bolts tend to gall to the aluminum and anything other then a 6 point socket will round them off. Drain rad and pull off hoses, you'll get a lil water out of the block but not much.

 

i used a air chisel with a flat end to remove the fan and reinstall it.just have to be carefull.and i 2nd the new thermostat housing
good luck

 

oh and they make more than one pump.one you can get a hotter thermostat for one

 

OMG

Until 1996, all 7.3L Powerstrokes that were manufactured used an International water pump and an International short stem 203o thermostat . In 1996, Ford changed to a lower degree 195o thermostat. They changed water pump designs at this time as well. The new pumps required the new long stem 195o thermostat in place of the short stem to properly seat the bypass disk. All 1996-2003 Ford PSDs now come equipped with a long stem 195o thermostat. Recently the factory replacement thermostat available at the parts counter changed to 192o..

If you "un dent " the old the old housing where the bolts Bend the mounting surface you can re use it ..( I thought everyone on the planet should be able to handle that )

Use the cheapest one , just make sure you use the correct t stat

 

I used a long chisel at a angle and gave the big bolt a sharp blow. Came right off. Put a piece of card board up against the radiator to protect it, ask me how I know.

 

Diesel site sells a 203 t stat that will work in 96 up water pump. I don't see much difference in temp so far. Which 8 or so degree isn't much so....

 

Ouch guess I am from another planet lol