Here's another thought for those who concerned about the strength the superduty hubs after modification. These are the hubs on a big ole bull wagon that I did some brake work on recently. They are typical of most any heavy trailer application with 25,000lb axles. The thickest part of the flange where the studs are pressed through is only 3/8" thick while the thin area in between is 1/4". In comparison, the thinnest part of a superduty hub is 1/2".

<a href="http://s742.photobucket.com/albums/xx65/Fordworth/Heavy%20truck%20hubs/?action=view&amp;current=2012-05-02_14-37-52_855.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx65/Fordworth/Heavy%20truck%20hubs/2012-05-02_14-37-52_855.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s742.photobucket.com/albums/xx65/Fordworth/Heavy%20truck%20hubs/?action=view&amp;current=2012-05-02_14-38-10_966.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx65/Fordworth/Heavy%20truck%20hubs/2012-05-02_14-38-10_966.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

Studs are not for sale. But since your not doing it the way I did it why not use off the shelf dorman etc studs.

 

If I was able to buy your studs I would be doing it the way you did.

I was originally planning on doing it the way Fordworth did with the all thread bolts but can't find anything long enough in 9/16-18 so that's when I asked you about the studs.

I guess if you won't sell then I'll start to look at dorman stuff and pressing studs through the thinner portion of the hub. Not the way I had wanted to go, but if it's the only way to get the 9/16" studs I guess it is what it is.

My hubs have not been machined yet and won't be until I figure out what I will be using for studs/bolts.

 

Ok, did a bit more searching. Fordworth helped out with the Dorman catalog & a buddy found something I had missed on the McMasterCarr.com website.

Posting the info below for others who may be looking into this & wanting 9/16" vs. the 1/2" stuff Fordworth used.

Fordworth found a stud that might work in the Dorman catalog. In case the pic below goes bad in the future the part number is: 675-047

The bolt my buddy found was McMaster Carr Part number 91251A701 at $4.48 ea. It's a 9/16"-18 x 2-1/2 socket head cap screw that is fully threaded.

To figure out if either would be long enough to work for me and to figure out which would be better to use I drew the pic below in cad.

It was kind of crazy that there is only 0.0150" difference between the the bolt & stud when installed in the hub.

Stud would be threaded into hub (coarse thread) with green lock tight and then have a wedgelock washer & thin nut put on what sticks out the back of the hub. I would also tack weld the nut for *****s & giggles.

The socket head cap screw would be threaded through the hub with the wedgelock washers & the green lock tight.

My concern with the stud is 1) - torquing it properly as studs can be a pain & 2) - the shoulder on it. If I for some reason have to run a steel wheel as a spare I may not be able to tighten the lug nuts properly. Therefore I'm going with the bolts.

The wheels I am running & were used for measurement in this are the factory/alcoa aluminum wheel off the 90's trucks like I showed in post #72 on page 5.



Hope this helps somebody else later on.

 

So did anyone get any where with this? Will a 10.50 bolt right in? Drive shaft work? and how about e brake cables?

 

Did you read the thread?

 

Yes I did, Unless I missed about the e brake and bolt in part some where, It all about hubs! Also didn't see anything about drive shaft hook up. I plan to do this but can't have my truck down for more then a day cause it my daily work truck.

 

Just re read for the 3rd time.

Question's

How much of the hub had to be milled to make the Obs rim fit?

Will obs yoke go right on the 10.50? The one I got has a flange plate.
Drive shaft the same?

 

Try this thread 10.5 SuperDuty Rear Hubs to 8 on 6.5 - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

Rusty

 

From post #74 in this thread, from a link I posted to the PSN thread linked above.

Quote:
I mis-stated earlier that Ford 99-04 and 1997 and older use the same wheel pilot diameter, this is wrong.
Machining is necessary to fit an OEM wheel to the SD mounting hub.

8 on 6.5 Ford wheels have a 4.88" pilot. And likely a 4.875"(Exact 4-7/8") Hub diameter.
1999-2004 SD pilot diameters are 125.1 MM(4.925)Wheel; 124.97(4.920)Hub

The new chased threads look very good on those studs considering that most material used for rolled fasteners is a little finicky when thread chasing.

 

OBS yoke works as does the driveshaft.

Rusty

 

E-brake setup on my '74 wasn't bolt in by any means, but in my "OBS" Ford (always hated that nomenclature as it is constantly changing & therefore never correct) the "O" stands for oldER than the trucks in question.

From what I've seen in looking at the newer trucks (yup, a 1980+ is "newer" to some of us!) you should be able to make the e-brake cables work with minimal effort.

It looks like in the 70's trucks they used to use a different length cable set for the drums to framerail depending on body style (standard cab, supercab, crew cab, long bed, short bed, etc.). It seems like in the 80's they wised up & would use the same rear cables for all body styles, but would make up for the length difference in the frame due to body style.

Therefore you should be able to connect your existing cable on the frame to the rear cables pretty easily.

 

subd for meme

 

Wouldn't it be easier to just use SD axels front and rear? I know the front dana60 has the non serviceable hub(?) Not an expert here just read a bit…… I do have to take the axel out of the rear of my truck and rebuild the front so am considering changing it all to the newer ones.

 

how's it going Nathan. Long time since I've seen you on here. I was going to give you a call a few weeks ago but lost your number