Hello Team Ford,

Stuck again without wheels to go anywhere..

My local mechanics want $ 2,000.00 as a start price- without even seeing truck ?? What the Heck is that ??


My Truck :

F-350 CREW CAB
XLT
7.3 DIESEL - TURBO


This Problem:

Cranked up truck - perfectly.

It was cold - after warming truck up
Turned on heat and defrost

Got down the road 2 miles

HAD A SMOKE AND SMELL COMING FROM ENGINE .. TERRIBLE LY..

I jumped out- Opened hood- On the left side- A/C unit with belt
Was red fire hot and smoldering ??

I know the Alt. is on the right side
I believe it is the A/C condenser unit and fan on the left side..

I do know i have a timing belt connected to all of it ..

If I run it - and do not turn on fan - Will I damage it and blow motor ?
Because the belt wouldn't be turning ??

When I replace the A/C Condenser Unit - ( just under $500.00 )
Should I go with Ford Part or is after market OK ?? Equal to Ford Part ??

Also should I have the air hoses connect to A/C condenser blow out to remove small particles as well..

Or replace A/C Condenser Unit - take it to someone to recharge with Freon - would it still be OK ??

Or do I run risk of small particles blowing back into new unit and causing early wear or damage than use normal use ??

Thanks,

Mark

 

MArk,

Take the belt off of the compressor and see if the pulley will turn. If it will not, then it is likely just the a/c clutch assembly bearing locked down. If pulley does turn, turn the key on in a/c mode and see if you can turn it.

If the pulley will not turn with the key off, then there is most likely no freon contamination. However, with a fire, i would still replace the compressor as the shaft seal
will likely leak and lose all the freon if you just put a clutch on it.

If the pulley locks down with the key on, then it is an internal failure. I would then recommend flushing the a/c system really well and replacing the accumulator & orifice tube as a start. If you fail to do this, the metal in the system will premature wear out the new a/c compressor.

I have used oem and aftermarket compressors with good results from both. Look around and see where u can find a good deal and warranty.

$2000? Where in sc is it I need to move too?

 

Outstanding Sir Clark,

I will apply your thoughts and idea's this afternoon..

So If pully turns and is free
Then it is Ok to drive this weekend Only??

Fix and replace on Sunday - Monday ??

Whats your thoughts ??

 

For your sake, I hope the pulley is locked down tight with the key off. That is the cheapest outcome. Just a compressor. You may get by with just replacing the clutch but you are only talking $50 difference at one of the big box stores to get a whole compressor + freon.

However, if the pulley turns freely without a rough bearing sound, you should be able to unplug the compressor and be ok. If there is a rough bearing sound, I would not drive it. By unplugging the compressor, you will still be able to run the hvac in the truck for heat.

 

Calrton,

You are the man..

THANK YOU, THANK YOU..

Out to apply new learned knowledge..

I am so thankful and will post results of findings ..

 

MArk reread my last post. I left something out and edited it. I meant to say i hope it is locked down with key off for $$$ sake. I think SC has advance auto. Clutch is 98 dollars and reman compressor is 150 + cost of oil and freon. Ford Compressor from partsguyed.com is $208.

 

Just remember that a clutch bearing that has burned up (can we say "overheated"?) usually also overheats the compressor case "snout" that it rides on if not caught in time, and that ruins the front seal.

All the refrigerant than leaks away.

Then, an entire compressor needs to be replaced, even if it turns freely.

Only if it's caught in the early stages of bearing failure will "just the clutch" fix the problem.

Pop