bosch, diesel rx/welman, or M.C glow plugs
#32
I'm going to say... Don't overwork the problem.
I've got a 88 7.3, and after doing the research, went with a set of the old style(6.9) Diesel RX glow plugs(the ones with the spade-tabs on top). These are rated for 12V, not the 7V of the newer style.
What's interesting is that the diesel RX GPs have a built in "limiting coil", so that they can use a higher-current coil(faster heating) without /over/ heating.
This means, it turns out, that they can be run continuously without melting.
This means I could then junk the iffy controller unit, hook it up to a push-button without fear of overheating.
I did that two years ago; in that time, I replaced three failed DieselRX plugs... Which failed properly, no bulging or anything. Also, during the winter that they failed, I was using Ether... so I'm very impressed(that they didn't /all/ fail).
I've since solved the problem with why it wasn't starting without ether during the winter(seemed to be a fuel delivery issue), and /this/ winter I don't think I'll be needing any ether.
In short:
1. DieselRX GPs are really nice(and cheap, too).
2. If you use the old-style GPs(which work fine with the newer engines), you can use a push-button, relay/contactor, and give up any failure-prone electronics.
3. I'm very happy with them.
I've got a 88 7.3, and after doing the research, went with a set of the old style(6.9) Diesel RX glow plugs(the ones with the spade-tabs on top). These are rated for 12V, not the 7V of the newer style.
What's interesting is that the diesel RX GPs have a built in "limiting coil", so that they can use a higher-current coil(faster heating) without /over/ heating.
This means, it turns out, that they can be run continuously without melting.
This means I could then junk the iffy controller unit, hook it up to a push-button without fear of overheating.
I did that two years ago; in that time, I replaced three failed DieselRX plugs... Which failed properly, no bulging or anything. Also, during the winter that they failed, I was using Ether... so I'm very impressed(that they didn't /all/ fail).
I've since solved the problem with why it wasn't starting without ether during the winter(seemed to be a fuel delivery issue), and /this/ winter I don't think I'll be needing any ether.
In short:
1. DieselRX GPs are really nice(and cheap, too).
2. If you use the old-style GPs(which work fine with the newer engines), you can use a push-button, relay/contactor, and give up any failure-prone electronics.
3. I'm very happy with them.
#33
Join Date: Mar 2005
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i also have an 88 7.3
the first set of motorcraft glow plugs lasted close to 175,000 miles.
the second set lasted close to 200,000 miles.
the third set currently has around 120,000 miles on them and are still working fine.
get then for under $10 each.
oh, and by the way, the 88 controller puts 12 volts to the glow plugs, not 7 volts.
the first set of motorcraft glow plugs lasted close to 175,000 miles.
the second set lasted close to 200,000 miles.
the third set currently has around 120,000 miles on them and are still working fine.
get then for under $10 each.
oh, and by the way, the 88 controller puts 12 volts to the glow plugs, not 7 volts.
#34
Suffice to say, the 88-style GPs expect a lower voltage than the earlier style, and I was told that the 88-style DieselRX GPs were only rated for 7v continuous(obviously you can go higher than that for a short pulse).
Also, personal experience has proven that the earlier style DieselRX GPs work fine with 11V into them, for several minutes at least.
Note that in order to get 11V into the GPs, I had to completely rewire the system; using runs of 10GA wire from the relay to /each/ GP, using a new relay, and 4GA wire from the battery to GP relay - with the GPs on(and engine cold), battery voltage drops to ~11.6, GPs get 10.5-11.0(as the GPs warm up, the current drops and voltages increase - this is worst-case drop).
http://imageshack.us/a/img823/9817/syf6.jpg
I used pink & green wire(you can see the two bundles going over the alternator to the relay mounted on the left).
#35
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#36
Just some extra info: I've been running these in my truck since April (I haven't pulled any out yet) but they are all still working fine. I start the truck everyday.
My main question is what if these "low quality" glowplugs are bought with a matching GP controller from the same manufacutre/company. Maybe this is why all these Glowplugs fail?
Edit: I can see this question has already been asked, except worded much better --> So if the problem is using the DieselRX GPs with the stock controller, what about using diesel RX with a diesel RX controller? Is there less chance of things going badly wrong if all components are replaced from the same manf?
Last edited by Xenthrax; 10-08-2013 at 12:53 PM. Reason: Read page two
#37
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they were still not designed for the ford.
they "will work" but for how long?
all most of us are saying is that if the diesel-rx/wellman glow plugs are so superior to the motorcract/beru glow plugs. why did not Ford/International use them instead?
when you have something that works so good for so many people, why tempt fate and use something else?
i have 496,000 miles out of 3 sets of motorcraft plugs. that is proof enough for me that they work
they "will work" but for how long?
all most of us are saying is that if the diesel-rx/wellman glow plugs are so superior to the motorcract/beru glow plugs. why did not Ford/International use them instead?
when you have something that works so good for so many people, why tempt fate and use something else?
i have 496,000 miles out of 3 sets of motorcraft plugs. that is proof enough for me that they work
#39
The autocrafts swell because they were designed to not stay on as long as the Berus.. and the OEM controller fires longer, which suit the Berus just fine since they were designed to be slow heating... Am I right?
If so, and if someone replaces the entire glow system (new relay, controller and plugs) wouldn't that eliminate the complaint above?
Give me some facts.. opinions are valuable but I like technical details why product A is better than product B given the full glow system swap.
If so, and if someone replaces the entire glow system (new relay, controller and plugs) wouldn't that eliminate the complaint above?
Give me some facts.. opinions are valuable but I like technical details why product A is better than product B given the full glow system swap.
#40
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can't answer the question, because i do not have the answer.
all i know is that the motorcrafts work very well, better than any other glow plug i have seen others try using. and the other guys always go back to motorcraft plugs after the other plugs burn out and don't have any more problems.
all i know is that the motorcrafts work very well, better than any other glow plug i have seen others try using. and the other guys always go back to motorcraft plugs after the other plugs burn out and don't have any more problems.
#41
Be interesting to get more details on the failed-use cases.
#42
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#43
Join Date: Jul 2006
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seems like such very low reward for such a high risk though.there's no way it can possible be worth the risk of pulling heads to remove a stuck gp,let alone worse case they clean out a piston.i'll never understand the desire to alter from something so proven.
i can only think the reason why some want to go cheaper is simply because they lack the funds to buy something that costs more.i get it.i really do.what i'll never understand however is the desire to alter on purpose when there are safer ways to start an engine.one of which is to just simply plug in your block heater and no risk of a swollen up gp tip in the head.ok,so that makes the power bill go up so that sucks too.i get it.but soaking a rag with gas though stinky,will help light off the engine so iv read and will help get ya buy fairly risk fee until you can buy a couple $10 beru plugs at a time or something ya know?
one thing we can likely all agree on is the that factory '87 - 94 solid state gp controller works great along with the beru plugs with something silly like only a few % point failure rate resulting in swollen tips right?
and we all know the setup typically lasts for hundreds of thousands of miles right?
so if $ was no object and you were looking for something tried and true well known to last and with such a low risk of getting stuck in the head......what then would be the reason to alter? does one actually believe they can come up with a system and so that they can go 300-400k on a set of gp's without one ever burning out really? or what really is the end goal then?
you guys have to understand us "motorcraft only crowd" simply don't see your logic in your desire to alter something with such a massively long lasting and low failure rate.it works and works great.why mess with perfection if you will if it's not about trying to save a buck?
#44
#45
Curious do you still have the OEM controller & relay? Also are you pushbutton our standard key-switch activated?