Serpentine Belt Change Video
#16
01-11-2012, 10:18 PM
Nice! 
Thanks for posting.
Only one of my three trucks has that little clip but it is nice to have. I always put the belt on wrong and have to look at the little picture again. Seems like I would have figured it out by now but I guess it's one of those mental blocks in my mind that just can't get it right the first time.
I changed the bearings in the three pulleys on my wife's truck last Saturday since they were starting to squeak. At first I messed up on the tensioner and reversed the locations of the grooved and smooth pulleys....that sure had me confused for a minute or two.
Turned a 30 minute job into 45 but I was still done in time for lunch. 
Thanks for posting.Only one of my three trucks has that little clip but it is nice to have. I always put the belt on wrong and have to look at the little picture again. Seems like I would have figured it out by now but I guess it's one of those mental blocks in my mind that just can't get it right the first time.
I changed the bearings in the three pulleys on my wife's truck last Saturday since they were starting to squeak. At first I messed up on the tensioner and reversed the locations of the grooved and smooth pulleys....that sure had me confused for a minute or two.
Turned a 30 minute job into 45 but I was still done in time for lunch.
#17
01-11-2012, 10:28 PM
No video on the LPOP change. Clay at Riffraff Diesel has Melling LPOP Instructions that will walk you through the process though.
#18
01-11-2012, 10:37 PM
No video on the LPOP change. Clay at Riffraff Diesel has Melling LPOP Instructions that will walk you through the process though.
#19
01-11-2012, 10:46 PM
#20
01-11-2012, 11:00 PM
oh well!
#23
01-12-2012, 10:59 AM
No video on the LPOP change. Clay at Riffraff Diesel has Melling LPOP Instructions that will walk you through the process though.
My local dealer shows the same part number for F250 as F450 but they have been known to be wrong from time to time....
#24
01-12-2012, 11:54 PM
Donn, when you changed the water pump on your F450 did the clutch fan spin off clockwise? I noticed that page 2 step 11 of the LPOP instructions that Ken posted above says that F450/550 fans come off clockwise. I am not sure that is correct but I haven't tried to remove the fan yet on my F450 but it looks like it would be the same as my pickup trucks (which turn counter clockwise to loosen).
My local dealer shows the same part number for F250 as F450 but they have been known to be wrong from time to time....
My local dealer shows the same part number for F250 as F450 but they have been known to be wrong from time to time....
#25
01-13-2012, 12:15 AM
I was just reading the instructions myself, why do you need to lock the flywheel down? Can't you get the right torque without it?
Do you have to have the tool reinstall the crank pulley? Why could you not just start the pulley back on the crank and get the key way right then use an impact on the bolt to draw it back on? My 18 volt impact is only rated for 200ft lbs (though i think that is a bit low)
Do you have to have the tool reinstall the crank pulley? Why could you not just start the pulley back on the crank and get the key way right then use an impact on the bolt to draw it back on? My 18 volt impact is only rated for 200ft lbs (though i think that is a bit low)
#26
01-13-2012, 12:53 AM
#27
01-13-2012, 04:35 AM
I just saw this now Ed...lol yeah I gave up on trying to explain to her what to look at. I even sent her a pic and she still didn't understand.
Sorry I know that isn't funny 
I just remember you talking about trying to talk thur something on her truck.
#28
01-13-2012, 07:28 AM
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#29
01-13-2012, 08:45 AM
I was just reading the instructions myself, why do you need to lock the flywheel down? Can't you get the right torque without it?
Do you have to have the tool reinstall the crank pulley? Why could you not just start the pulley back on the crank and get the key way right then use an impact on the bolt to draw it back on? My 18 volt impact is only rated for 200ft lbs (though i think that is a bit low)
Do you have to have the tool reinstall the crank pulley? Why could you not just start the pulley back on the crank and get the key way right then use an impact on the bolt to draw it back on? My 18 volt impact is only rated for 200ft lbs (though i think that is a bit low)
You do need to lock the flywheel to remove the bolt if not using an impact. The problem with an impact is the area is kind of tight. If you have a small one and it will break the torque you will be fine. You won't be able to torque it fully though, the engine will turn over as you tighten it down.
The tool is not required, you will need to get a metric bolt that is longer though. The OEM bolt is too short to grab the threads fully. The washer is pretty thick and IMO needs to be used since it will not deform when tightening down.
The tools are available to rent for free at most chain auto parts stores, so it is much easier to use them IMO. I have my own and they make the job effortless.
#30
01-13-2012, 10:29 AM
You do need to lock the flywheel to remove the bolt if not using an impact. The problem with an impact is the area is kind of tight. If you have a small one and it will break the torque you will be fine. You won't be able to torque it fully though, the engine will turn over as you tighten it down.
The tool is not required, you will need to get a metric bolt that is longer though. The OEM bolt is too short to grab the threads fully. The washer is pretty thick and IMO needs to be used since it will not deform when tightening down.
The tools are available to rent for free at most chain auto parts stores, so it is much easier to use them IMO. I have my own and they make the job effortless.
The tool is not required, you will need to get a metric bolt that is longer though. The OEM bolt is too short to grab the threads fully. The washer is pretty thick and IMO needs to be used since it will not deform when tightening down.
The tools are available to rent for free at most chain auto parts stores, so it is much easier to use them IMO. I have my own and they make the job effortless.
I agree with Ken. The rental tool makes the job much easier. I read a thread on here a while back where someone tried to use the bolt to pull the damper back onto the crank and it stripped the threads, so it's probably better to use the installer tool.
I figure the best way to lock down the flexplate is to take a length of 1" x 1/8" x 18" flat bar and drill three holes. The hole in the center would attach to one of the torque converter bolts (at the 6 o'clock position). Then a hole at the ends of the strap would fasten to the case (bell housing area), where the outer inspection cover bolts would normally go. I usually have to twist the strap a little bit to align the bolts but it seems to work nicely. I haven't actually done it on a 7.3 though....just other vehicles but I think the process would work the same...
Stewart made up a nice tool that worked about the same way and he has it posted in one of his threads. Maybe he'll see this and post a link.
