Has anybody on here ever purchased and installed an interior sound deading kit from Quiet Ride Soulutions? $465 for a full ready to install sound deading kit. Includes floor, back cab, doors, kick pannel, cowl, roof and all the seam tape and spray adhesive you will need. Seems a bit steep untill I started pricing all the materials at Eastwood. Just want your guys's opinion on this matter. Here is the link.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....ort~1~cadefjdx

 

I used stuff from here RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products

They used to sell it in rolls. You'd have to figure out the coverage of the box packaging.

 

If the product is good quality, that seems like a great deal to me. Having everything pre-cut would be nice. Otherwise you're just adding to your labor and waste.

I'd love to do something like this. But I always want someone else to go first...

 

I reached out to the guys at RAAMaudio and told them what truck I had, and what my goald for deadening were. They told me exactly what I needed, and for my '00 F25 CC, it ran me right at $300. They were very helpful. My main goal is to reduce road/tire noise and to just decrease the ambient noise level in the truck. Using a sound meter app on the Droid (I know it isn't accurate, but it gives me a baseline) tells me that I have anywhere from 78dB to 85dB when driving at 70 mph on the highway. I haven't installed it yet, as I was hoping to install new leather on the seats while I had them out. Unfortunately I had to delay that project due to some medical bills. If I get the sound deadening done soon, I will post the results.

 

You might try a search on this forum, I remember a few months ago people talking about the Dynamat stuff. I think they were impressed.
Looking at everything they package, and pre-cut, expensive but worth it.
For me it will be after a few other mods though.

Tom.

 

Thank you all for your imput. I have looked into dynomat prices, and for the square footage this job requires, I don't think Quiet Ride solutions kit is a bad price. Considering everything is pre-cut, I think I'm going to purchase this kit this spring and tackle the job. I'll also buy all new door weather strip. Can't wait to see the results of this. I love quiet solid cabs. It will be a while, but I'll post results when completed.

 

I spent about $700 deadening my cab, and what I'll say is SAVE YOUR MONEY.

I did the entire floorpan, firewall, kick panels, and rear wall first with RAAMmat BTX and Ensolite products, two layers in the large flat areas that resonate a lot. After spending a weekend doing this, I honestly did not notice much (if any) difference. Later I did the door panels, and that made a significant difference.

I would save your time and money and do just the door panels first, I'm sure you'll be happy with the improvement and it will save all the work of gutting the entire cab.

Here are some pics of my project. Worst part, last year I laid the truck over and am currently rebuilding it with a different cab... Needless to say, the new cab won't be getting this much sound deadening.

 

It looks like you put sound deadening on the outer and inner skins of the doors. Is this correct? I'm thinking that that would make a big difference.

 

Yes, outer and inner skins. The doors made the biggest difference, all the rest was pretty much a waste.

 

I get road noise from the doors, it kind of sucks that on a 2012 F250 Lariat that I spent $55K on has more road noise than a 2000 F250 XLT that I spent $27K on.

There is quite a bit of area's they cut corners on comparing the two trucks.

 

Other than the doors what are good areas so cover? im pulling my bed and everything come spring and while its up on blocks i wanted to pull the interior and cover the inside with B-quiet or another brand for some sound deading i need to put new cab lights in so what about the roof as well? I also have an extended cab.

 

Any large flat areas in the floor pan that can resonate, back wall, roof, and covering holes in the pillars helps too.

 

ok, how can i tall how bad they resonate, but hitting it my knuckle like? or softly with a hammer?

 

Tapping with your knuckle helps you find the bad spot, but any large flat areas without creases for rigidity will need damping.

 

ok, i was looking into this and i figured covering the entire cab would work lol but i didnt want to spend that much money for unneeded dynomat. how much is a good amount of material in square feet?