i didnt know that the front axles were so easy to get out. im doing the rear drive shat u-joints soon, i might just tack on the front stuff to.

 

Not a bad write up Encho. I'm thinking the sensor might be for ABS or something. I've done several of these on 78-91, basically the same. Some have a one piece locking ring instead of a 3 piece. I like the one piece bearing nut cause after you get the bearing preload right your done, you don't have to fight lining up that tiny pin with the ring. For some reason my '91 had one style on one side and other on the opposite! The spindle seal or slinger just taps on and off be careful to keep it square to the seat on the axle shaft.
If you replace the ball joints get an adjustable upper camber bushing if you can find one, I bought mine from Rockauto, and the first stop will have to be to a shop for an alignment. (unless you have lots of money to replace the front tires every month or so)

 

I'm sure it's the ABS, Torky also mentioned it, but at the moment I wasn't sure, so it was better to state it that way instead of assuming things and giving what could be wrong information.

 

those ABS sensors are a pain to get out with out removing the hub/rotor.

 

It should also be mentioned that replacing the ball joints requires a press to remove them. I have a 30 ton shop press but a smaller tool can be rented from some autoparts stores.

 

As I mentioned at the start of the write-up, it doesn't have any information regarding the replacement of the ball-joints, hence, there will be no mention to any procedures there. This write-up will take you all the way up to the spot where you'll be able to remove the ball-joints. From there on it's up to you, but of course, a press or some other kind of tool is required to remove them, you should also be using Moog or Energy parts (just two examples of quality parts).

 

I bought some for my '89 (ball joints) and installed them. when it was wrecked I saved the ball joints to put on my '91. The rubber on them was gone/ badly deteriorated took them back and since they no longer had that brand available they got me some Moog replacements. Thanks to Limited Lifetime Warranties! and ALWAYS save your reciepts for that kinda stuff, create a special file even. Parts stores around here only keep records for about 2 yrs.

 

great writeup, saved me as far as the wheel bearing procedure, and also the right tool for the spindle nut socket. my local advance auto had the AC675 which was excellent compared to what autozone had for a loaner.

however when i went to get parts for my 88, they had multiple bearings/ seals for at least that year depending on the month it was made and whether it was auto or manual hubs. The autozone gave me two 45's, and neither fit. o'reillys (I went in with numbers off the old) gave me a 35 and a 37, which were correct, but only one matched their book. Mine was built 09/1987, but doesn't match the 1987's parts, so beware of oddball 88's...

 

Thanks for sharing that info muscletruck, it will be of help for others and it improves my write-up!.

 

What is your procedure for the bearing preload?

 

If I remember correctly, apply 140 lb/ft of torque to seat the new bearing race, then back up and set the final torque to 60 lb/ft. It worked nicely for me so far, so it must be right.

 

This is my second write-up to get updated, now all the pics are hosted at FTE, apparently the time it takes me to do this on every write-up of mine is 2 hours .