ok so im starting to think bout a rebuild of my motor in my Flareside. well really a build of my motor to get a lil bit more out of it. it is a SD truck so im limited. and i dont wanna have to go through all the trouble and money of a MAF swap. so what in yalls opinion is the absolute best but reasonably price combo is for my 351W without boring it and swapping to carb. i wanna keep my EFI. and by the way its a 94 motor.

and secondly about how much does it cost for a shop to build a motor with the specs yall will lay out and about how long should i expect the motor to be gone for.

this is what im thinking of right now. but i think i might want a lil more than just this. any ideas?

Cam- E303 (not sure if compatible with SD.)
GT40 heads
Long Tube headers

 

A cam and exhaust is about all the stock SD system it's going to handle but that will wake the motor up quite considerably. However the Ford alphabet cams are not suitable at all, you need something like the comp 35-349-8 in my sig.

 

comp and crane were the only 2 ones that had sd cams. 1 of them went under, i cant remember which, but im sure you can still get their grinds.

conanski
heads wouldnt work with sd?
and also an intake/ throttle body would effect the sd computer?
cuz i was planning on an edelbrock truck intake and a bbk 56mm throttle body. with headers, and the comp sd cam.

 

You can get away with alot more than most people say with SD.

Go to NLOC.net and check out some of the crazy Lightnings still running SD.

Keep the 351 stock and just throw a Vortech blower on it with supporting mods

 

Any of the Ford alphabet cams are not the best setup in a truck regardless if it is SD or MAF. The Lightning guys already start with an advantage, i.e. GT40 heads, intake, factory shorty headers a an aggressive tune from the factory. The rest of us have to catch up to start on an even playing field.

The 5.8L is cursed with a poor design intake and E7 heads. Simple bolt-ons like headers, exhaust and a good tune up with quality parts is a good start.Anything beyond that is going to be diminishing returns without replacing the intake and heads IMHO. GT40 heads can be found for a reasonable price. A Mustang 5.0L HO roller cam is another popular replacement with the Lightning guys, but there are other replacements a little better suited to a truck application. The intake is another story. It's gonna cost you a few $$ to realize your full investment potential. Even with a Speed Density PCM a custom tune will yield the best results.

Forced induction is another way to get some power for a reasonable cash outlay with a stock motor. Just don't expect a stock motor to live beyond a 6-9 PSI boost level.

 

fuel injectors. stockers are 19lbs bump em to lie 24 lb or higher

ohh if you wanna drop a grand this is pretty off the hook
1988-89 90 91 FORD F250/F350 PICKUP T3/T4 TURBO KIT 25:eBay Motors (item 170402219353 end time Jan-01-10 16:36:52 PST)

 

Installing larger injectors is not going to get you anything but headaches and a lighter wallet on a stock motor and stock PCM. 19 Lb injectors are good for roughly 300 flywheel horsepower. Even with GT 40 heads and a mild cam the injectors are not going to be running 100% duty cycle.

 

i was thinking in terms of the turbo kit

 

OR, you could do like I am planning on, and take a 351w out of an older police car.....My LTD Crown Victoria has a 351w, and I have did a lil work on it, EI; Cam, lifters, etc.....Been wanting to swap it for my straight 6, just havent had th chance, also, been looking for more info on the swap BTW, and best part is that they are carbed, no screwing with electronic crap....Best o luck....

Thanks all-

-Wes

 

Just look at the lightnings , there SD & run a 15.5 1/4 stock , with a better cam they will do better . So if you do simalar , long tube headers , edelbrock performer intake (car) i think they make one for the 351 ? GT -40 heads , the 302 HO cams are easy to find & they will work with SD . You could add 1.7 rockers & 4.10 gears to....BTW the E 303 cam is a great cam for a built motor in a light truck but will not work with SD ...Lew

 

The only problem here is if it is an E4OD trans, then you get to buy a $600+ trans controller.

What I would do is a good set of aluminum heads (used heads can be very reasonable - that is what I did) a GT40 or Edelbrock Performer 5.8 intake (or the Professional Products version as a last resort), an HO 5.0 cam, and headers. If money allows later, throw a Vortech on it or go to a piggy back MAF setup and throw a bigger cam in it.

 

No.. all that stuff would need tuning on a mass air setup so SD simply has no chance. Forced induction with an FMU is SD compatable however and really the only way to get somewhat serious performance levels with this system.

 

GT-40 intake manifold
42lb/hour injectors
t3/t4 twin turbos
Pertronix ignitor 3 ignition module
edelbrock heads
some type of engine work pertaining to a cam, crank, pistons, and connecting rods
msd boost retard module
maf conversion
custom ecu and tuning
hmm what else...well all supporting mods and such also arp head studs and main studs (Windsor block only has 2 bolt mains unlike Clevelands which have 4 bolts) so the main studs should help. maybe they have some type of additional bracing that can be added? idk
hi flow oil pump
anti slosh oil pan
replace the valve springs with the dual spring with dampeners
some trick rockers
comatic head gasket
Taylor plug wires
Bosch +4 spark plugs

 

copied from another site because i couldn't have said it better myself.

Most people have the opinion that you can not modify a factory speed density car whether it be a Mustang, Lincoln or any other vehicle because it will "run like crap". Another one I've heard is a modified factory speed density car will run too lean and melt the engine down. Its common to hear "speed density sucks" also. All of these opinions are just that, opinions. None of it is fact. Speed density cars run well when modified. The major issue is with camshaft selection. The factory speed density system runs off of vacuum and has a predetermined idle vacuum amount and with more duration than a factory camshaft manifold vacuum at idle is reduced. This causes a surging or hunting idle and stalling. At all other throttle positions the car will probably run normal. There are camshafts out there that claim to work with speed density but the factory camshaft is not a bad camshaft to work with in mild applications. The factory speed density computer can not measure airflow and can not compensate for big airflow increases so you are somewhat horsepower limited. Chances are if you are using a factory speed density system it is going to be a mild application anyway. You can run aftermarket cylinder heads, intake manifolds, headers, throttle bodies and injectors with the factory speed density systems as well as superchargers, turbos and nitrous. There are some tricks to running superchargers and turbos though because the factory MAP sensor does not read boost.

 

i agree with this guy, except i would get a set of 1.7rr, this would be a good running set up, with power where you are going to need it, watch your cam selection carefully, even with a maf swap, i wouldn't want something that's going to be soft down low, if it dosent start making power till 2500-3000rpms with a stock converter and a heavy truck its going to be a turd driving around town.

p.s if you have the extra coin laying around your best bet would be to get ahold of jay allen at http://www.camshaftinnovations.com/ and they will set you up with a custom cam that will work best for you.