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From the pics you posted it looks complete and rust free. I have a concern about the rear brake lights with the little add-on they did with the extra lights. Its possible the wiring harness may need some love if they had to do that.
It is worth $1500 providing its mostly rust free, it runs, has a functional wiring harness, and is mostly complete/original.
Areas you need to check:
cab corners
mid cab support ends
cab floor
front cab mounts
vent/drains located behind the front wheels (are they full of crap?)
tailgate (does it work and is it complete?)
battery tray
bed floor
missing chrome and trim pieces
I probably missed a couple of things but that should get you started. I would not consider buying it without a good in person shake down.
Corey is right'' since he replaced about every piece of metal on his truck, he know's of what he speaks!!...looks pretty good from the pic's? like he said dig deeper!
OH, check the ''Drip rails'' around the roof!..if there rusted thru that is an issue and hard to fix from what I've heard!!
Figured I forgot something. I think the drip rail problem is more predominant on the coasts where the trucks see salt air from the ocean. Up by us, its just road salt, heh. Even still, they are fixable, where there is a will, there is a way.
And yeah, Ive gone deeper into the cab and box than I ever wanted to, but only because I had to. Take a look at my pics in the signature below if you want to see pics of what you should be looking for. Granted my problems are extreme to what most will see, but it does show just about any area you may want to get a closer look at.
Figured I forgot something. I think the drip rail problem is more predominant on the coasts where the trucks see salt air from the ocean. Up by us, its just road salt, heh. Even still, they are fixable, where there is a will, there is a way.
And yeah, Ive gone deeper into the cab and box than I ever wanted to, but only because I had to. Take a look at my pics in the signature below if you want to see pics of what you should be looking for. Granted my problems are extreme to what most will see, but it does show just about any area you may want to get a closer look at.
I'm taking down of all of your comments. Thank you for replying.
Yea'' I live down in Florida'' and it's very common to see the Drip rails just hangin on by
rust!..lol..I was giving you prase for being able to fix anything on one of these ole trucks
haha, as I said, you know your metal work!....
I just emailed the guy, and there is rust behind the passenger side cab as well as the inside floors. Someone stole the radiator -_-. How hard are those to find and how much do they cost? She said 800.00 would take it.What do you think? It also needs new tires.
I just emailed the guy, and there is rust behind the passenger side cab as well as the inside floors. Someone stole the radiator.
How hard are those to find and how much do they cost? She said 800.00 would take it. What do you think? It also needs new tires.
What else is wrong besides the things previously mentioned and things that were not. Like the front/rear bumpers that are tweaked / shot interior / dents here and there / chipped, faded, crappy repaint job.
What is the condition of the most important things that also cost big bucks to repair: Powertrain = Engine/trans/rear axle?
An old ploy sellers use...is...to remove parts so vehicles cannot be road tested.
No radiator, no road test. If it cannot be driven, there is no way to determine the condition of the powertrain, suspension, steering, brakes and etc.
IMO, 800 bucks is way too much for a parts truck, cuz that's all it's good for "as it sits" because of all the unknowns.
And...you can bet your bottom dollar that since IL uses salt on the roads, there is far more rust than the seller has admitted to...or is aware of.
Been there, done that: It's real EZ to pour 10 grand into one a these old rolling piles of misery, and not see one visual improvement. A complete resto will cost 25 grand EZ, could be double that...plus!
Well it is in Utah. I would like a project. It seems all there just needs some TLC. Ugh, but yes, I do see what you're saying. All good things to consider. I don't know what to do. Which bumper are you referring too? The rear? THe lady says it runs. I don't know how well as she hasn't sent me a video.
I've seen better looking trucks in wrecking yards. The guy is high if he's asking $1500. I wouldn't go any over $500 for it. The grille looks good,
and if the trim is complete and in good shape, that's worth a few bucks...looks like the steering column has been swapped out, among other
things...I'd crawl around under and over it...
Well it is in Utah. I would like a project. It seems all there just needs some TLC.
Which bumper are you referring too? Both. The front bumper is bowed outwards from where the license plate mounts...to the left fender.
The step bumper doesn't fit properly, sags like an old swaybacked nag and is tweaked on the left (drivers) side.
THe lady says it runs. Uh huh...
It also snows in UT, so...salt on the roads also applies.
If you think this truck just needs some TLC, you're in for a very rude awakening!
Be aware that private sellers can lie just as well as used/new car dealers, lawyers and...politicians.
So, does it run...or not? Since the radiator is missing, how will you be able to test drive it, or listen to the motor for more than a coupla minutes...if you can get it to start?
You have two things against you: You are suffering from buck fever and are wearing rose colored glasses, because you cannot see the obvious.
I bought a 1965 F100 Styleside branny new in March 1965, sold it in November 2009, so I know these trucks better than most people and...know what "sins" to look for.
My 66 F100 has a rear bumper similar to the one you are looking at. Mine had a cab over camper and the bumper was used as a step up to get into the camper. Also had a 70 F100 with an extended bumper that was used for the same reason.
In my 70 a lady rear ended me at a stop sign and trashed out the front end of her car and all I had in damage were a couple of scratches in the paint.
NumberDummy and CropDusterMan raise some good points. It looks to be in OK shape but missing radiator is a big flag for me as well. For an original radiator I think I paid around $300 for mine 14 years ago. They are probably over $400 by now.
Bill, you got a good deal then. I paid around $300 for mine, but I think I bought a 4 core without an oil cooler. The standard V8 radiator for a 352 was a 3 core. Most online places are listing the 3 cores for over $400 now.