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1978 F150 11" lift (Baja Lift) Should I mess with it?

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Old 12-28-2011, 02:07 PM
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1978 F150 11" lift (Baja Lift) Should I mess with it?

Hi all...I'm a "fresh fish" here...so I hope you take it easy on me!!

Here's my situation...I was hoping the Well of Knowledge will throw their advise in on the matter!

I'm looking to buy a 1978 F150 4x4 Stepside Bed. Here's what the guy has listed as for the info on the truck...

1978 ford fwd stepside pick up new bed ,rear fenders have been stretched 4", 38"super swampers,alum wheels, new brakes and assemblies, 9" rear ,dana 44 front, new $750 drive shafts, transfer case an auto trans been gone thru, 11" baha lift kit soft spring,new rubber bushings an bolrs in frame, new 780 holley carb,alter,voltage reg, steering box, water pump, oil pump, fuel pump, control moduel,new turbo dual exhaust,timming chain an gears, new 4 core radiator, new clutch fan, new guages,pedal kit, sony stereo,new frontend linkage,large new reese hitch,460engw/c6 trans



If I buy this truck...this will more or less be a "cruising/take it muddin' every once in awhile" type of truck. And probably in about 10 years this will be a restoration job with my son and I so he can drive it during High School.

So...my concerns are...
1) A 11" Baja Lift (long travel lift...aka..a "blockless" lift)...is this even safe for Highway/cruising?
2) 38" Super Swampers...are these tires too big for the axles/tranny?

Any thoughts you all might have...I'd love to hear them! Again...I might buy this...I might not.

On your mark...get set...GOOOOO!!!

Thanks inadvance!!
 
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:34 PM
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I think the tires are Ok for the tranny but probably too big for the axles. I wouldnt go any larger than 35 or 36. For as heavy as these trucks are, the added stress from the weight of the tires is gonna cause the axle shafts to break. A friend of mine put te same axles in his cj7 and is running 38s, but his vehicle weight is substantially less so he'll be ok. Of course, it all depends on what kind of wheeling you're gonna do. Just cruising out in the dirt you may be ok, but if you do a lot of rock crawling or mud bogging, that's where you're gonna run in to trouble.
 
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:41 PM
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Sounds pretty nice. Wyollie covered most of it, If you want to go that big for tires I would get some D60's to go under it. I'd say it would be fine on the highway if the front end is set up right.
 
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:28 PM
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If your trying to drive it on road probably not going to be the best. Swampers suck on road. Now as far as things holding up. its hard to say. This truck has 15" lift and 44s on a 9" and a 44 front.



Hes also running a built 390, 4spd and a 205 case. Truck has done very well. Just recently last wheelin trip managed to explode the 9" rear. Its been beat on hard and takes its well. Just depends on how you drive. Now this truck is driven from home to the trail which is maybe 2 miles. Granted with the gear ratio which is unknown as well, its start in granny low first and it never gets out of 2nd gear. We didnt build the truck, actually made a trade to get the truck.

Id say if the price is right go for it! Those stepsides are pretty cool. and with what your planning to do it should be fine. and it looks like a pretty cool truck.
 
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:26 PM
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It will be fine as a mall crawler oops I "mean cruising and taking it mudding once in a while truck", sorry JK.

As long as you do not hammer that 460 on pavement trying to show off for some chicks, or beat a ricer off the stop light, the last thing I would figure will break are those $750 dollar d/s. lol

It does not look like it has a 11" of any kind of lift kit on it, if it is a 11" "travel" baja kit is should be able to soak up some rough sand dune jumps. But should have more tire to fender clearance. And it could likely have terrible road/pavement manners (bad handling from to soft of suspention?

I am not a desert/sand guy so what do I know, but thats what I understand.

I would guess a maybe 6" lift with some radius arm drop brackets (baja being never heard of lift kit brand)?

Wait till it comes time to replace those tires $$ and then you make the call on the size. Keep your foot off the skinny pedal and the axles should last you.......
 
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:20 AM
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Thanks for everybody's 2cents...I appreciate it!! Even the "lil jabs"...that goes out to you 77&79F250, watch your back...cause there's a NEW Sheriff in town!!

So let me see if I can summarize my concerns here...

1) Tires/axles....It will probably be ok if I don't "drive it like I stole it!" (But really...who doesn't want to stand on it every once in awhile??) So...if I do buy it...I probably want to upgrade my axles to Dana60's...don't want to be one of those "mall crawlers" forever....

2) Lift/Suspension....It will probably be ok for what I'm going to be doing in the short time....mall crawling (that goes out to you AGAIN 77&79F250...). But long term...I'll probably will want to use a traditional suspension/body lift. You all got any ideas on how tall to go with those 38's?? (Cause for some reason...I'm digging those 38"!!)

How about ya's.....??
 
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:34 AM
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Well sheriff just watch your back in the Offroad &4x4 forum, you can get shot in the face there quick, and left for dead just for saying Hi, I don't even go there because there attitude in there. A few bad bullets ruin the box....

It being a 1/2 ton you will have some work ahead of you putting a D60 in the front. The $1200 ish front D60 is normaly a leaf spring mounted axle. In that offroad 4x4 forum there is a 79 bronco with the swap completed, could get a little educated in there, tread wisely.

And some on here say a 14 bolt is cheaper to get parts (hardened axles/locker ect....and better that a D60 for the rear. Body lift are not my most faviorate thing......

Get some hardened axles/ bigger better u-joints and roll with it. If it starts, runs and stops, and the price is right, go for it.

Again welcome to FTE, stick around we are going to set a chebby on fire in here later after we t-bone it with a yota.
 
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:30 AM
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These guys are right on the money. I'll add that a friend of mine had a Chevy with a built big block and 11" of lift with 38's. It was a half ton with a corp. 12 bolt in the back (not as strong as a 9") and a Dana 44 up front. He beat that truck mercilessly and never broke an axle. I think Rich is right about the lift too. I'd say 6 or 7" of lift MAX on that truck. Fords are big from the factory if it's 4wd. You don't have to work near as hard to get big tires under a Ford like you do with a Chevy or Dodge. (another reason why Fords are better.)
 
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Old 12-29-2011, 09:33 AM
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You'll be fine with the soft springs, you learn to drive it differently and it rides soo much smoother. I have pretty soft springs on the back of my '69 shortbox and love them. It still corners hard and rallys well on the dirt roads.....

That axle/engine/big tire combo has been abused for many years, you should be fine, just go easy on the stupid pedal when in bad spots....
 
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:53 AM
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A simple test drive with someone following you to check how it tracks(straight/sideways) will tell you a lot about the quality of work done.
 
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:08 PM
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WOW!! I'm getting a "plethora" of info on here! (yeah...I've been known to throw out some "big" words...)

Moochas....grassy-***!!


So I'll be checking it out Sat morning.

So...here's the next BIG debate....what is a good price for said Truck?? Granted I'm going to have to see the condition of the body (which isn't THAT big of an issue...cause eventually I will be tearing it apart and restoring it with my kiddo.), check to see exactly what all he really replaced per his posting (seems like he replaced a lot of parts on it), and finally to see if there are any main engine knocks/noise. I think if I can get it for $2500....it would be a good deal..........right???

Ok....let loose the hounds...let me know if I'm in the right ball park with the price! Come on guys...don't be bashful...learn me something!!

JC
 
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:01 PM
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nice truck, potential!

if its not rusted out in critical componets do it. lots of potential with this stepside. I agree with others around maybe 6" lift. if you look at body line on btm of cab and measure from top of rims. use this for a reference. my 77 f-150 has about 8" and a little higher than that truck. corporate 14 is a stout axle. make sure its not a gov lok differential. was told it was built different than some other corporate axles. dana 70 would be the next evolution (1.5") in ford axles for your application but will have to change rims. 8 lug situation compare to 5 lug. I have a photo of my truck next to a 49 irok swamper. I'm on 38" boggers skinnys, love that tire but broke my dana 44 many times. I now have a dana 60 hi pinion and linked and air bagged, love the ride quality. www.autofab.com has some cool parts that you need to check out for your truck. dezert racer guys over their definelty ford die hard, john (owner) oldschool dezert racer and does a 1977 ford 460 truck. check out. I will dig up some photos of my front axle setup. check out my photos in my albums several photos of my truck. building another at this time! welcome to ford trucks, keepin old iron alive one ford at a time. check out youtube (thunderstruck pullin truck) badazz old ford. gots to go catch you later. BUY IT!
 
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Old 12-29-2011, 02:03 PM
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Gotta love the advertisement as a "baHa" (notice the H...) lift.

The thing looks fine although the over sized balloon tires aren't my style...
I'd much rather have a soft riding coil spring than a leaf type setup. Especially if there's gonna be a body lift on top of that. Forget those things!
 
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:38 AM
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I would ask why he is selling it? And why so low priced? Maybe $2500 in Ohio is a deal, but for that price to me it had better be knee deep in rubber, at least no rust on the fwd cab mounts, have a real good motor and be correct in the lift install dept.

That's alot of $$ for a truck you do not know alot about, just cause HE paid $750 for d/s does not mean you have to? The 460 is a swap in so look it over for being a clean install, no hacked up getto fabbed eng mounts.

R/h frame notch cause the incorrect car versus truck exhaust manifold. Correct oil pan (front sump='s car motor) (rear sump='s truck motor). Front dip stick or l/h pan stick, car or truck motor again.

Yes he has swapped alot of parts....why, they broke, wore out, torn up?? You do not want to buy someones elses headache. Shop smart and do not let the "it ain't that bad' get ya. Ask for receipts on parts and gear box rebuilds?? Or was it a buddy deal?

I would rather buy a not lifted (probably not to abused) 4x4 and do the work myself and go from there, but I guess that price is not really that bad for all the parts/stuff you are getting?
 
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