Hey Y'all,

My 2001 Supercrew with a 4.6 engine won't start. A few days beforehand I was able to start the truck intermittently. At first I thought it was a PATS problem like I was having last year, but I'm not getting the blinking THEFT light this time. Like I said, a few days earlier I'd get in the truck, turn the engine over, but no start. I'd pull the key out and try again and then it'd start. Hmm, a PATS problem, I thought? This happened maybe 5-6 times and now it won't start. Luckily the truck is in the driveway.

Here's what I've checked after reading a bunch of posts in the forum:
- Checked the schrader valve on the fuel rail for pressure and there's none. (And this is checking less than 30 seconds after cranking the engine.) Obviously there's no fuel being pumped.
- Checked the #304 PCM relay and #301 fuel pump relay under the hood. I actually bought a new #301 relay today hoping it'd work, but it didn't. I even switched out the #304 with the old one, but that didn't work either.

I've read to check the #2 relay under the dash and listen for "clicking." Should I hear clicking when I'm cranking the engine over? I've checked the inertia switch on the pass side kick panel, but the red button on top looks like it's fully depressed, already, so there's nothing to reset there from what I can see.

Can anyone tell me what other fuse(s) to check that might apply to the fuel system to know for sure that current is being supplied to the pump? I guess I shouldn't rule out a PATS problem, either, but THEFT like blinks normal - evenly slow, and my odometer numbers are okay - no dashes, like some people report. I've even tried both sets of keys and neither one will start the truck.

Thanks for any insight,
Jack.

 

Probably the fuel pump itself. Mine went wobbly this summer. Truck would run fine, but wouldn't restart in hot weather. Had to let it cool down before it would start. Mechanic checked fuel pressure and found it was getting weak.

Had to drop the tank and replace it with an Airtex. Around $140. Good luck.

 

Thanks, Blue2golf. I should also mention that the few last times the truck wouldn't start at first and then with persistence it'd start, the engine would sputter, and I'd have to "goose it" to bring it up to idle.

Is there a test to determine if the pump is bad before I pull it off the truck?

Thanks a bunch,
Jack

 

Hey Y'all,

I found a good YouTube video on determining if a fuel pump is bad. Mine failed all the test which are: 1) Remove the gas cap and put your ear close to the fuel filler tube. Then engage the key and put it in the start position. Of course, you should be able to hear the fuel pump for a few seconds. I heard nothing. 2) Open the power junction box under the hood and listen for "clicking" at the PCM and fuel pump relays. Yes, I clearly hear them clicking, but can feel them physically when I put my finger on them and someone engages the key to the start position. And 3) put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line (schrader valve) and check for pressure. I have no gauge, but when the valve is depressed no fuel spurts out. Clearly, there's no pressure.

Okay so does anyone have an opinion of Airtex versus Motorcraft? I always buy Motorcraft when I can, but my budget is tight after the holidays, so am wondering what some of your experiences have been with other replacement brands?

Thanks!
Jack

 

I would be checking for a bad ground or an open circuit (power) right at the fuel tank (connection) before going any further .

 

Thanks for the reply, Vaper. I've got a Super Crew, so is checking my curcuit at the pump connection on the tank accessable if I crawl under the truck without dropping the tank at this point? That is a good idea to check out, though.

Is your feeling with everything you've read from my post that this is the last thing to check before saying the pump is dead?

Thanks!
Jack

 

It's not bad to get at via behind and over the rear diff.Sometimes a bad pump will start working when you strike the fuel tank with a rubber hammer.This is not a fix but will confirm the diagnosis.
Do you have a wiring schematic for the truck?

 

I don't have an electrical schematic unless I go to my library and look in a Chilton manual. However, I did find a great Ford 2001 F-150 service bulletin from an online Ford dealer site showing how to replace the fuel pump with very clear drawings.

One drawing shows that there's one connection called the "fuel tank pressure transducer electrical connector." I assume that's the 12v supply and it show two wire going into a clip connector with I assume are the 12v supply and a ground wire?

Luckily, my brother works for an independent auto parts store and his cost for a new Motorcraft complete pump and unit is $243.00. Not bad, really. That's easily $100 less than what I've seen online. They stopped carrying Airtex because of the returns. That's exactly what I've been reading online about Airtex. Everyone says to stick with Motorcraft and I think that's probably good advice. I got 11 years and 163,000 miles of service out of the original, so might as well "invest' in a good pump.

Thanks!

 

Good luck with your repair Brown Bear,a proper wiring schematic is must before testing any circuits.Invest in or borrow a manual if you can,it can save a lot of headaches, even for those in the trade.

 

Thanks, Vaper. I'll see if the Chilton has an electrical section. It should. Otherwise, I'll check for 12v at the pump connection when the key is engaged in the start position.

I'll keep you posted on the job. I'm gonna drop the tank in the a.m. At least it'll be sunny and dry and a cool 50-60 degrees all day.

Thanks!
Jack (Austin, TX)

 

Good luck to you and no smoking!

 

Hey Y'all,

After determining that the fuel pump died, I spent the next two days dropping the tank, cleaning it out, and installing a new Motorcraft pump. It was a bear of a job, but the truck started right up with a quick crank. The truck not only starts much quicker, but is smoother and feels like there's more power. My pump must have been failing for several weeks. What a difference. I went with the Motorcraft pump to avoid any issue with an aftermarket pump. It was more money, but I think it was money well spent.

Thanks!
Jack

 

Glad it went well for you Brown Bear! Thanks for keeping us posted

 

That's good news. And you're right, those fuel tanks are tricky to drop. (Lot's of cussin'!)

 

I have the same no pressure issue with the same truck. Can you tell me what the voltage should be at the pump? I'm only getting 6.5 volts from pink black to black and from pink black to chassis ground. If it should be 12 vdc what could be cutting the voltage?