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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

Buildup! '03 Crown Vic IFS into '58 F100

 
  #61  
Old 01-08-2012, 02:42 PM
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Here is where I stand with the front suspension swap. It is finally in and ready for the motor to go back in. You can see in the pictures where I blended the car frame with the truck frame. When the motor is back in you will never be able to tell that there is a Crown Victoria frame over the truck frame. Now I need to get some power steering lines made and I need to run the brake lines. But I can see the light at the end of this tunnel and I can't wait to fire it up and take 'er down the road. Also there are pictures of the brackets we made for the trailing arms to mount to the frame.

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  #62  
Old 01-08-2012, 04:01 PM
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Now tell me you welded the bolts in for the sway bar mount before you put the boxing plates in. So they won't push up into the rail should you drop the sway bar.
 
  #63  
Old 01-08-2012, 08:55 PM
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That's funny. Sadly I didn't remember to do that on the passenger side but I did on the driver side. If the day should come that I need to take down the sway bar I will have to get creative with the passenger side. I can get it done though.
 
  #64  
Old 01-08-2012, 10:41 PM
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Waitin to see pics of the truck with the weight of the engine on the front suspension. The return line for the rack is just 3/8" line. There is no pressure on it. The pressure line you will have to have made. You will need a proportioning valve for the brakes to operate properly. You could just junk yard that piece from just about any truck with disc front and drum rear.
 
  #65  
Old 01-09-2012, 12:34 PM
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Okay how do I know which one is the pressure and return line? I think the one in the front is the pressure line because it has the rubber hose made onto it and when I turn the wheels power steering fluid comes out of it and not the other. And I already have the proportioning block for the brakes. I got it off a '98 or so F-150. I'm planning on running the brake lines today and hopefully get the motor swinging in the truck. I'll post pics of the truck with the motor in it as soon as I fab some mounts.
 
  #66  
Old 01-09-2012, 07:09 PM
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I believe the one with hose on it is the return. The line that has the flange on it that holds both lines down is the pressure. The other end of the flange is a hook that wraps the return line. Clear as mud? If you take a closeup pic of where the lines attach to the rack I can tell you for sure.
 
  #67  
Old 01-09-2012, 10:18 PM
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The motor is swinging in the truck now. Now I need to make some mounts to get in there permanently.

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Here is the close up of the power steering lines.

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  #68  
Old 01-10-2012, 09:37 AM
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In your pic the line on the left is the return line. Won't be long and she will be breathing fire once again!
 
  #69  
Old 01-10-2012, 04:25 PM
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Okay thank you. I can't wait to drive her once again. I gotta round up some square tubing for the motor mounts.
 
  #70  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:05 PM
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I found a good idea for a motor mount design on here. It utilizes GM transmission mounts, square tubing and steel plate. It is in the buildup thread of a 54 M100 CV IFS install. I will use that design for my project. I cut the plate that will bolt to the motor today. The semester begins tomorrow so I won't be able to work on it as much. Fortunately I don't have much to go. Once I get the motor mounted it will take me approximately an hour or so to get it fired up again! Then I will just have to figure out the power steering. I cannot wait to drive her again! It won't be the same truck.
 
  #71  
Old 01-14-2012, 10:41 PM
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Today I got to start on and finish the motor mounts. I FINALLY GOT THE MOTOR INSTALLED!!! I used the idea of using a GM transmission mount, (Part # 2378 at Autozone and $5.99 a piece), 2" square tubing, and 3/8" steel. I cut two 5" pieces of square tubing. I also made a plate to fit the machined surface of the CV X member with a hole in the correct location. I welded a 1/2" bolt in the hole of the plates to bolt onto the X member. I welded that plate to the bottom of the 5" square tubing. I also made a plate to fit the bottom of the transmission mount and a plate to bolt to the motor. I welded the plate that fit the transmission mount to the top of the square tubing. Then I bolted the motor plate to the transmission mount. The pictures will explain it better.

The motor mounts.

Passenger side.

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Driver side.

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The motor sitting in the truck.

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Height of the fender well from the floor.

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Height from the floor to under the door.

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Finally, the look of the truck with the engine in it.

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  #72  
Old 01-14-2012, 11:25 PM
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Now we're talkin! Looks like a solid 5" drop up front. You can get another 1 1/2" with drop springs from Eaton Detroit. They will run you just under $225.00 including shipping. My question to you is what do you think about the front drop?
 
  #73  
Old 01-15-2012, 09:50 AM
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I LOVE IT!! To be honest with you I think where she sits now in the front is about perfect. There is a couple of inches between the top of the tire and the fender well. I have plans to later buy a matching set of 18's to put on the ol gal and I think if I lower it anymore I may have 'scrubbing' issues. But as far as the front ride height goes I think it looks great! As soon as I pull it out of the garage I will get a side shot from farther away so you can see how low she is. I plan on making some shackles for the rear to level out the ride height also.
 
  #74  
Old 01-15-2012, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by fast58 View Post
I LOVE IT!! To be honest with you I think where she sits now in the front is about perfect. There is a couple of inches between the top of the tire and the fender well. I have plans to later buy a matching set of 18's to put on the ol gal and I think if I lower it anymore I may have 'scrubbing' issues. But as far as the front ride height goes I think it looks great! As soon as I pull it out of the garage I will get a side shot from farther away so you can see how low she is. I plan on making some shackles for the rear to level out the ride height also.
Oh son, son, son let me educate you. Assuming the rear is mounted the same as bumps you can take the front mount off the frame of the rear springs. Flip it upside down and remount it to the frame. You will have to drill a couple holes to remount it. You can adjust rear height from there. Be careful. You want enough clearance so your axle can move up and down without hitting the frame. Measure your pinion angle prior to making the change. You may need to fabricate angled shims to reset the correct pinion angle. You will also either want to extend your lower rear shock mounts or find shorter shocks.

Future plans call for a TBird IRS with discs for the rear? I am patiently waiting for pics from farther away. I know our trucks are not the same BUT I have 17's on mine at this time with the drop springs.

Here is an article you might find helpful. http://www.fordification.com/tech/lowering.htm
 
  #75  
Old 01-15-2012, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by elgemcdlf View Post
Assuming the rear is mounted the same as bumps you can take the front mount off the frame of the rear springs. Flip it upside down and remount it to the frame. You will have to drill a couple holes to remount it. You can adjust rear height from there. Be careful. You want enough clearance so your axle can move up and down without hitting the frame. Measure your pinion angle prior to making the change. You may need to fabricate angled shims to reset the correct pinion angle. You will also either want to extend your lower rear shock mounts or find shorter shocks.

Future plans call for a TBird IRS with discs for the rear?[/url]
I did this once on my '92 F-150. I got a "axle flip kit" which actually turned out to be a U-shaped piece of 3/8" steel that you put under the axle. This kept you from having to put the mounting plate on the bottom of the axle, and it kept the axle from "rolling" forward or backward. I wonder if I can use that "kit" for my '58 and not have to modify the axle? The only difference is that my '92 has an 8.8 rear axle and my '58 as a 9 inch.

I will check that link out as soon as I get done with this post.

And I am still on the fence about the IRS because I just don't know how it will perform. Probably fantastic but I just don't know. And yes, if I do decide to do the IRS it will definitely be in the future because I can't afford the $395 kit that is out right now plus the cost of the rear end and all the trimmings. Especially after this swap haha. Maybe in the future.
 

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