Big 3 Upgrade - Got a question
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Big 3 Upgrade - Got a question
Just did this on my '95 F150, and I'm wondering if there's anything wrong with running a wire directly from the batter + to the alternator? I see many write-ups suggesting this, but the battery light (idiot light) in the instrument cluster came on as soon as I fired up the engine. The voltage (instrument cluster gauge) showed a slightly stronger charge than before.
Don't think it's a problem, but I'm throwing out the feelers here. Thanks.
BTW, I'm running an a 3G alternator out of an Exploder. Don't know why that would make any difference, but I thought I would mention it anyway. It so far has not given me any problems.
Don't think it's a problem, but I'm throwing out the feelers here. Thanks.
BTW, I'm running an a 3G alternator out of an Exploder. Don't know why that would make any difference, but I thought I would mention it anyway. It so far has not given me any problems.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Jacksonville FL
Depending on the year you either got a 2G or 3G. Never had 4G alts in these trucks.
I did a 3g swap on my 86 wti the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge wiring. 0 gauge from battery + to a 150 amp fuse (130 amp 3G alt) and then to the alternators charge stud. No issues at all.
My 94 I have a 200 amp 3G alternator and big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wiring. 1/0 wiring from battery to 250 amp circuit breaker then right to the alternator charge stud. Had it like that for about 3 years now. No issues.
Have you checked the voltage with a multimeter? Been a while since ive done a 3g swap.
I did a 3g swap on my 86 wti the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge wiring. 0 gauge from battery + to a 150 amp fuse (130 amp 3G alt) and then to the alternators charge stud. No issues at all.
My 94 I have a 200 amp 3G alternator and big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wiring. 1/0 wiring from battery to 250 amp circuit breaker then right to the alternator charge stud. Had it like that for about 3 years now. No issues.
Have you checked the voltage with a multimeter? Been a while since ive done a 3g swap.
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Senior User
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Depending on the year you either got a 2G or 3G. Never had 4G alts in these trucks.
I did a 3g swap on my 86 wti the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge wiring. 0 gauge from battery + to a 150 amp fuse (130 amp 3G alt) and then to the alternators charge stud. No issues at all.
My 94 I have a 200 amp 3G alternator and big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wiring. 1/0 wiring from battery to 250 amp circuit breaker then right to the alternator charge stud. Had it like that for about 3 years now. No issues.
Have you checked the voltage with a multimeter? Been a while since ive done a 3g swap.
I did a 3g swap on my 86 wti the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge wiring. 0 gauge from battery + to a 150 amp fuse (130 amp 3G alt) and then to the alternators charge stud. No issues at all.
My 94 I have a 200 amp 3G alternator and big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wiring. 1/0 wiring from battery to 250 amp circuit breaker then right to the alternator charge stud. Had it like that for about 3 years now. No issues.
Have you checked the voltage with a multimeter? Been a while since ive done a 3g swap.
No, I haven't put the multimeter on it. I will do that. I haven't driven it yet this way either. I will be taking it on a short trip (10 miles) today. Maybe the idiot battery light will go out. Will have to see.
I did have the lower grade battery in mine. The 130 amp was an upgrade. I used 2 gauge wire on the "Big 3". I didn't use a fuse, but I can understand why maybe I should. The power wire does get mighty close to the alternator case housing.
I'll be gone visiting relatives for a couple of days, but I'll report back when I back home on what happens.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: TX
I have a big three on mine because I started pulling some power with my amplifier, but I have no batt light coming up. I have 4 gauge running straight from the alternator with no fuse either lol.
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Postmaster
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
OP.
I don't see anything wrong with running the output (through a fuse) directly to the battery instead of the hot side of the solenoid.
The charge light is glowing because there is a difference in voltage on either side of the filament.
I would check and clean all the connections between the battery+ and the instrument cluster to start.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: TX
hell yeah i know, ill get one soon, and to the other post it can barely handle the 90amps mine does much less the 130amp one thats why I had to upgrade. crappy stock charging wire is like 10 gauge i think.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Actually there are two 10Ga. wires coming from the alternator in a 2G system.
I have Ryan's 2Ga. wire set and a 175A Megafuse in a Bussmann holder.
But I also have a late model gear reduction starter that takes most of the load off the factory fender solenoid.
I have Ryan's 2Ga. wire set and a 175A Megafuse in a Bussmann holder.
But I also have a late model gear reduction starter that takes most of the load off the factory fender solenoid.
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Ok, I'm back home again. Thanks for your responses.
The battery "idiot" light went off after 15-20 miles of driving. Maybe it'll come back on again. After listening to your responses, I don't think it's a big deal.
I do feel nervous about that unfused power wire. Any recommendations on where to look for a fuse of that nature? Will the auto parts stores have them?
The battery "idiot" light went off after 15-20 miles of driving. Maybe it'll come back on again. After listening to your responses, I don't think it's a big deal.
I do feel nervous about that unfused power wire. Any recommendations on where to look for a fuse of that nature? Will the auto parts stores have them?
