Originally Posted by petemcl

The dash looks original along with some of the wiring. mtflat sorry for the poor picture but the truck was originally seamist(?) green and it just looks like primer. Body seams are factory.

I looked for the serial number on top of the frame near the left water pump. I had that pump off to overhaul it. I couldn't see any serial number or grind marks. I think that there are more hidden serial numbers under the cab but that will have to wait.

Originally Posted by 52 Merc

In all my years I've never heard of anyone redrilling the center hole in the spring leaves to move the locating pin. Not saying it wouldn't work, but I wouldn't do it on my own rig. That doesn't sound right at all, to me.

And I don't know if I'd try to lengthen an already shortened frame. There are so many of these old F2's and F3's that are practically given away do to their lack of popularity compared with the F1, finding a replacement frame would be way easier than modifying a modified frame.

It looked to me as the box was still sitting back too far, and could be moved forward a smidge. Combine that with moving the fender forward an inch or so and you'll have everything looking pretty close to normal. It all depends on what you're looking for in the end. If you really want a long bed truck, I think you'd be time and money ahead with starting with a different unit.

You also said your front end has 'new replacement parts'. Are they steel or fiberglass. There is no new steel front end sheetmetal available for these trucks. But new fiberglass replica parts can be purchased.

Originally Posted by ben73058

Hey Pete,
I thought it might be helpful for you to look at another 1950 F1 - see our's below.

o The bed looks pretty close but the bed panels look a bit different inside - mine have half circles your's show the bolts.

o I think my bed & rear wheel placement looks about the same as your's - I don't see any appreciable difference.

Personally I'd just get some replacement running boards mounted in there & just move to the next rock - Your truck looks just fine as it is.

Ben in Austin

Originally Posted by 51PanelMan

Here's the breakdown:
. . .

The only way to truly find out how much of stretch your frame will need, is to buy a set of either F1 running boards (if you want to keep it F1), or F2-F3 running boards, and mount them on your truck. No one reproduces F2-F3 running boards, but I have a decent and solid pair available.

Your truck has been definitely pieced and shortened by the PO.

Originally Posted by jim collins

Some times you can turn the springs around ,front to rear, and move the rear axle. I have done the old 50s chevy trucks that way when changing the old inclosed drive line to a open one.On them it would move the rear back about 2 inches to center the wheel. You can check the distant from each end to the center bolt to see if they are the same or not On a lot of vehicals they are not the same . You would have to see if the bushings can be changed from one end to the other and if the spring ends are the same width . On the chevy the ends had to be ground down a little bit to get the rear part to fit the front and a small spacer added to the front that was put in the rear shackels. If it will work then that's a lot less work than stretching that frame and do as was suggested,put a f-1 running board on first,then fit all to it.

Originally Posted by mtflat

Ok, I concede on the dash. Looking closer at the picture your dash has the indent for the finger hold above the glovebox door that was 48-50. The ashtray does have 51/52 trim.

The serial number is not under the cab. Old guys remember that location pre-1942 models. When you said left - did you mean passenger side US? Look in that area between the radiator support and the angled waterpump x-member. Lightly stamped, you'll have to rub with steel wool or carefully scrape around there. Solvent will help remove crud. Shine a light at a shallow angle and you should find the original serial # for the frame.

Some report the serial on the driver's side close to the steering gear box. Depended on the assembly plant.

Originally Posted by petemcl

Wow! I would never have known about the finger hold. Thanks. I'll have to see if I can find a 1950 ashtray. What is the difference?

When I said left I meant driver's side. Is the number on the frame rail on the passenger side?

Originally Posted by 51PanelMan

I may have a 48-50 ashtray in my pile of parts.

You can get a pretty penny for those F1 fenders. If they're mostly solid, they're worth at least $500-600 for the pair. You can get F2-F6 front fenders for significantly less, because you'd have a wider selection range.

Just earlier this year I junked two 51-52 F2-F6 front clips because I couldn't give them away.

Originally Posted by 52 Merc

The frame stamped serial number on US production trucks is typically found on the right side frame rail near the motor mount bracket. Depending on the year and assembly plant, it could be anywhere along the right side rail from just behind the axle to the rad crossmember.

Originally Posted by 51PanelMan

Pete,

You'll need a complete front clip from a 48-50 F2-F6 in order to have correct fenders. Grille, hood, upper hood latch panel, lower deflector (or gravel pan) and inner fenders are the same as 48-50 F1. So, the only difference between 48-50 F2-F6 and F1 are the upper and lower fenders.

The F1 beds (48-50 or 51-52) are completely different from the F2-F3 beds. All F2-F3 beds are the same from 48-52. Thus, F2-F3 rear fenders are different than F1 rear fenders. The F2-F3 bed is wider and longer than the F1 bed. To accomodate for the larger width of the bed, the F2-F3 rear fenders have a large notch in them. Plus, the wheel openings are larger in all fenders on F2-F6 trucks than on F1s.

It may be worthwhile for you to start looking for a 48-50 F2-F3 truck and piece both trucks together to what you want and sell the left over parts. Between your current fenders and other front body parts, you should easily have $800-1000.