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1994 7.3l idi f250 Excessive white smoke?

 
  #31  
Old 12-26-2011, 09:40 PM
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BB code injectors.most swear by them.i like mine.probably would have liked a fresh set of E's just as well i dunno.
factory turbo engines got the G codes.
if you want to see what others say about all the codes just search.im done repeating info i don't know about personally.i can't tell you BB's blew my old E's out of the water or anything like that.they fixed my issues with shot injectors is all i can tell ya about 'em.didn't seem to do nothing less or more.perhaps if i had my turbo installed (still isn't.) before and after,id be singing a different tune.
whatever you decide,you can get 'em all here:
7.3 L Ford Diesel Fuel Injectors Fuel Pumps Accessories

if you want a real performance injector you can get 'em here:
IDI Products

i know Dave S run those with great results with 20 lbs of boost setup.
probably not what your after without their pump,head studs etc.cus id think you'll just over fuel and get nowhere lol.
 
  #32  
Old 12-26-2011, 09:45 PM
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Thanks a lot for your help I'll repost if I resolve this or if I need more help
 
  #33  
Old 12-27-2011, 11:31 AM
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New IP and old injectors? Well, there's your problem. They are most like popping at the wrong time because they are worn and could even be leaking constantly. I would throw in a set of reman or new injectors (if you can find them) and see how that goes. Pickup a bag of Viton #111 o-rings because you will need to install new o-rings on the injectors.
 
  #34  
Old 12-27-2011, 06:45 PM
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Pensacola Diesel has a set of new Delphi injectors for $279 or a set of remans for $108.
 
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:45 PM
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  #36  
Old 12-31-2011, 08:40 AM
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I put a set of rebult injectors in and the same smoke. Ran some cleaner it got better then bad again. I had 2 injectors come loose. Fixed them and advanced the timing a dime and runs great. No more smoke.
 
  #37  
Old 12-31-2011, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 94 7.3idi View Post
Pretty hard starting usually needs a spray of some WD-40
I just got a good deal on a 7.3 idi f250. Hard to start when i bought it. So: all new glow plugs, injector seals, and sealed an air leak at the fuel filter.

Now it starts every time. When its cold i have to crank for 15 sec if i dont use the block heater. Great truck!
 
  #38  
Old 12-31-2011, 11:44 AM
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When you changed the ip did you pullthe whole housing off (the part with the oil fill tube on it) or did you pull the 3 bolts under the tube? These bolts would have the star type head on them. Then pull the 3 nuts on the housing? If you pulled the entire housing with the gaer in it you may have got the timing out on it. I did this rookie mistake when I first put mine together. It would start but rolled raw fuel white out just like yours did.
 
  #39  
Old 12-31-2011, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kenpobuck View Post
When you changed the ip did you pullthe whole housing off (the part with the oil fill tube on it) or did you pull the 3 bolts under the tube? These bolts would have the star type head on them. Then pull the 3 nuts on the housing? If you pulled the entire housing with the gaer in it you may have got the timing out on it. I did this rookie mistake when I first put mine together. It would start but rolled raw fuel white out just like yours did.
Just a question: what is the benefit of changing the head studs? And the pyrometer?

Abel
 
  #40  
Old 12-31-2011, 12:25 PM
94 7.3idi
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I did pull the oil housing off... I'll take a closer look at where it lines up and everything
 
  #41  
Old 12-31-2011, 12:56 PM
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The head studs give a better clamping force on the heads than bolts do. It will also allow you to run more boost. The pryo Allows you to monitor your exhaust gas temp. This this a must before turning up your injection pump and is just a good general thing to have.

94 7.3idi, if you pulled the whole housing with the gear in it then you have some work ahead of you. There are timing maks on the drive gears for the crank that match with a gear on the cam. Then there is also a mark on the cam gear that lines up with a mark on the gear that drives the ip. These marks must aling. Since you din't pull the cam gear all you have to worry about is the is the timing between it and the ip gear. I had a time trying to see this mark on the cam gear as it is just below the front cover behind the water pump. I hope some one a little more computer savvy than I on here will see this and give you a liknk to one of the many threads on it. I used a small dental mirror and a good flashlight to find mine while turning the engine over by hand lol. Remeber that you need to unhook the fuel shut off valve as it may start. It is also a good idea to pull the glow plugs to relieve the compression while turning it.
 
  #42  
Old 12-31-2011, 02:10 PM
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Thanks ken I will look into some threads and see of I can find any more info on what you said
 
  #43  
Old 12-31-2011, 02:53 PM
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Is there a Poping sound coming from your tail pipe... cause if you hear like a pop in the exhause but not the intake you might have bad Exhaust Valves.
 
  #44  
Old 12-31-2011, 02:55 PM
94 7.3idi
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I don't hear any poping
 
  #45  
Old 12-31-2011, 03:07 PM
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7.3l IDI with bad Exhaust vavle - YouTube

This is my truck with a bad Exhaust vavle... does it sound like this?
 

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