Nut was on the old IPR tight when I removed it to clean it. I ended up damaging the old IPR and had to buy a new one. Cleaning the IPR was one of the first steps I took trying to fix this problem.

What fuel pressure gauge would you recommend, and do you know of any install instructions for this?

Headed out to freeze my butt off and have a look at the IDM wiring here after dinner.

 

I talked to Mike over the Phone. To me it sounds like an electrical issue. He said had some rodent problems around the ebpv solenoid and maybe other areas. I suggested a good dealer that has about 10 master mechanics at a local ford dealer. Maybe worth it if we can't help him figure it out. Anyway here is the link I was talking to you about: Maintenance - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ

Merry Christmas and a good new year!

 

Any 0-100 psi liquid filled gauge will work. I bought one at Tractor Supply. You will need a #4 ORB fitting on the other end of the gauge if you use the port off the fuel bowl. This may help.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-hook-up.html

 

To me that sounds like a PCM that is fighting to keep the engine running due to highly restricted flow. I've seen it a couple of times in other trucks. Both times there was a restriction in the tank and very little fuel reaching the engine so the IPR was doing gymnastics to keep the engine running.

Did you try draining the fuel bowl to see how fast it refills? If you open the drain right after the engine was running and you get a pressurized mixture of fuel and air then that is a classic sign of a restriction in the tank.

 

Will try this soon. I took a look around the IDM and saw no signs of critters. For giggles I removed the 42 pin connector and cleaned all the contacts last night. No help this morning, still tried to die on me. Why would a fuel restriction go away after it warms up? Why would it still run like a champ at WOT with a fuel restriction?

 

I'm going to have AE running tomorrow morning when I leave for work. If and when it acts up, what data should I be logging? Is there a "snapshot" feature in AE?

 

Thanks Grant! I'll have a look.

 

I don't know if it's related, but now my driver side door switch is acting up. I had to slam the door 4 times to get the dinger and dome light to go off.

 

Glad to help. Did you say the rats ate the wiring on on the ebps or the solenoid on the base of the turbo pedastal? Did you ever fix the wiring? That sensor carries the v ref that is shared with other sensors so that could be a problem. See what you can find in the link I provided. You can also check at the 42 pin connector if you see anything out of spec. Pulling the spider and inspecting all the wiring around the valley would also be a good idea. Good luck and hope you make it to TX ok. Maybe we can gtg after Christmas if you have not figured it out.

 

When I deleted the EBPV I got a non-EBPV pedestal and left the plug harness dangling in the valley. After I noticed the mice had the eaten the connector almost entirely off I cut the harness back and soldered in a resistor. I still get EBV codes so I may not have cut enough of the wiring back. I looked around at wiring last night (fender plastic is hard as hell when it's frozen) and didn't see any damage around the IDM or any more damage in the valley. Will pull the spider this evening and inspect more. Will cut back EBPV solenoid wiring and attempt to repair again also.

 

Can someone remind me of the resistor value for EBPV delete? I need to stop by rat shack and get more. I think they were 420ohm?

 

It's a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor that you want.

 

It would not. I didn't catch the part where you mentioned that it went away once the engine was warm and at WOT.
Sorry...

 

No problem, I appreciate any help I get. Had I gone out and bought a gauge you might have owed me an adult berverage.

 

Mike, you might want to unplug your ebp sensor before you leave work and see if it makes a difference. The ebpv solenoid gets the 12 supply from the pcm so if was shorting to ground that may cause problems for the pcm. Unplugging that sensor is suppose to disable it. I know you have the solenoid unplugged but the pcm may be still applying power when it's cold. Probably a long shot but I would try it.