A voltmeter will resolve this in a hurry. Use that with the diagrams you posted above and trace it down. Not very easy by measuring resistance only, but a lot more cumbersome.

 

Well from that diagram, if you have 12V at the ignition switch, a jumpered NSS, and no 12V at the trigger wire at the relay, it could be the ignition switch, the clutch switch, or a break anywhere along the circuit (circuit #32 R/LB). If you do have 12V at the trigger wire when the key is turned to "START", then it's either a bad starter relay or a bad ground at the relay (99% of the time it's a failed relay).

 

I'll check that in just a lil bit....I can't find my testlight, and my voltmeter is fugged up....So a simple lightbulb/wires will do.....

 

Guys...Don't kill me....Just yet....

I found my issue....Nothing drastic....

Turned out to be simply, loose wires....To the Ignition Switch on the steering column....I bumped it by accident....And bumped it again and VOILA!



So now, issue resolved, minus the fuel gauge issue....

That was my fix....Simple loose wire....When in doubt, do a bump/wiggle test....

 

Cool...give yourself a lump of coal from the mine for Xmas.

 

Gee whiz...A WHOLE lump for me? THANKS....





















BTW-....Just wondering....wtf does a !988 model truck look like?

Just bustin' *****...

 

Don't you love electrical problems.......... To fix em get a bigger hammer and start wacking! LOL

Keep a eye of that Ignition Switch, I have had them go intermittant and just by bumping them, they started working for a while. On my 84 F250 I had the switch burn up on me! That was fun out in the middle of the woods......

 

This could also be bad contacts in the ignition switch....a problem I dealt with on my 84 F350 that caused issues from wipers not working to turn signals not working as well. Check for battery juice at the starter relay (switch side) when the ignition switch is in the start position. If no juice work backward. I feel your pain, I love my truck tho and I'd never sell it.

 

Wes, what wiring diagram book was that you were posting on here? Diagrams look much better than my Haynes/Chilton.

 

Not really sure...IIRC, it's the EVPM shop manuals.....I personally don't have the manuals, just been a click/saving ninja for over a year....



As for the issue....I literally just bumped it, and the odometer/speedometer peg bumped up and down and on/off.....SO yes, it's in the wiring that goes to the switch....

 

Just a suggestion, but I had a similar prob with my 92 mustang. It wasn't the wiring as I thought as well, but the switch (made like a sandwich) had actually separated a bit. It would do a lot of what you described. Squeezed it back together & wire/zip tied till I could replace it.

 

I originally had the switch from the 1991 crown vic in it....The hold down bolt broke the recieving shroud and I replaced it with the 1992 F-150 one..

I checked it prior to installation...No seperation that I could find...Even when moving the switch around.....

 

Yes, i left it there since the truck was parked, and i left it overnight.

 

Ohhhh ok, I thought you were meaning you left it like that, and drove around...lol

 

Why it look's like a grandpa truck of course! LOL
my family were coal miner's Throop, Pa, they always said a lump of coal for us kids at Xmas.