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Maxx-Lift coil spacers

 
  #16  
Old 02-25-2012, 03:21 PM
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VanWilder, that's interesting info, however it's quite suspect. Are you sure you have all of the information correct?

I don't think your 03 E250 is any different than my 07 E350 with regard to the front suspension assembly. If you were to just place the spacer on top of the the stock bolt-head which connects the radius arm to the axle, there would be nothing to retain the spacer except "Gravity" and "Spring Tension". The danger would be in launching a coil spring sideways if you ever topped-out the suspension. I personally wouldn't trust it.

The extension nut shipped with the kit "Centers" the spacer on top of the axle and provides a means for "Mechanical" connection to hold the spacer in place with a washer and locknut on top.

That said, perhaps your rig had an SAE thread stock bolt that the mechanic was able to remove and invert. He would then have to cut-off the end of the stock bolt (the unthreaded potion), and continue per the instructions using the extension nut along with a washer and locknut on top to "Mechanically" hold the spacer in place.

Do you have photos?
 
  #17  
Old 02-25-2012, 08:06 PM
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You will need a drop bracket for your sway bar as you will put undue stress on it in the factory location as you lifted your van 2", I suggest removing it until you drop the mounts to relocate it, shouldn't be difficult to correct.
 
  #18  
Old 02-26-2012, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by E350John View Post
VanWilder, that's interesting info, however it's quite suspect. Are you sure you have all of the information correct?

I don't think your 03 E250 is any different than my 07 E350 with regard to the front suspension assembly. If you were to just place the spacer on top of the the stock bolt-head which connects the radius arm to the axle, there would be nothing to retain the spacer except "Gravity" and "Spring Tension". The danger would be in launching a coil spring sideways if you ever topped-out the suspension. I personally wouldn't trust it.

The extension nut shipped with the kit "Centers" the spacer on top of the axle and provides a means for "Mechanical" connection to hold the spacer in place with a washer and locknut on top.

That said, perhaps your rig had an SAE thread stock bolt that the mechanic was able to remove and invert. He would then have to cut-off the end of the stock bolt (the unthreaded potion), and continue per the instructions using the extension nut along with a washer and locknut on top to "Mechanically" hold the spacer in place.

Do you have photos?
No, I don't have photos and I didn't do the install so I can't say much about the bolt through issue with certainty, especially now as I don't have a clear view of the center of the spacer. What I do know is that the instructions that came with the kit didn't specify any requirements for additional hardware outside of the extension nuts which they said "may be required" and the tech line assured him there were no problems with the way they specified the installation should be. Nor did the mechanic who installed the camber adjusters afterward mention that it seemed incorrect or anything like that. He is very thorough and works in the shop next door to me and it's likely he would've said something to that regard if an unsafe condition existed.

Further, the shim you placed atop the spacer was left below the spacer in the instructions. My shim stayed below the spacer with the spring resting directly on top of the spacer, as the instructions and tech line told him was correct. Please don't take offense to this, but you seem to have set a standard for the installation that maxxlift doesn't require. I understand you want peace of mind. I would assume since maxx lift are liable for injury in case of failure that their directions are trustworthy. Maybe I'm wrong but with what "improvements" everyone is suggesting I should have upwards of $1,000 into a $70 lift kit and that, to me, is baloney. I could've bought taller springs and forgot about the whole thing.....

You will need a drop bracket for your sway bar as you will put undue stress on it in the factory location as you lifted your van 2", I suggest removing it until you drop the mounts to relocate it, shouldn't be difficult to correct.
The only thing the installation instructions call for is a recommended alignment after you get the spacers installed so I'm wondering where you draw this from. As is a $70 spacer kit will run $500 or more to install and align correctly. It seems ridiculous to me that everyone is going one further than what the manufacturer of the kits specifies and is tacking on grade 8 bolts, washers, drop brackets, and other add-ons when maxx lift is offering this as a "kit", which implies it has everything needed for the job. To say all this is critical when the manufacturer doesn't specify it seems a bit over the top.
 
  #19  
Old 02-26-2012, 04:02 PM
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VanWilder,

I'm just trying to be of service, sharing my experiences in this forum. My motivation is to help myself and others avoid costly and/or dangerous modification issues. The instructions that came with my kit mentioned purchasing aftermarket hardware to replace the stock bolt (if it happened to be metric)(the kit was SAE).

Perhaps Maxlift has redesigned the product, my install was back in Decmber of 2011.

Good luck with your rig.
 
  #20  
Old 02-26-2012, 04:30 PM
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So, you think you can stretch the bar 2" without damage, the spacer blocks raise the van 2", pulling on the bar? I don't care what came in the kit, I put a 4" lift in a 4x4, and had to drop the sway bar and replace the shocks, I know it's a different height but it's the same argument, you need to do the shocks and sway bar bracket. As the suspension moves down it pulls away from the sway bar, 2" makes it very tight, it's weaker too, gonna wear the bushings out on it fast. Like your shocks, the stroke is totally different, making them ineffective, "real" lift manufactures always suggest upgrading when going 2". I used to budget lift stuff, then go back and correct everything I skipped later on, I'm just trying to give you a heads up before you damage something.
 
  #21  
Old 02-26-2012, 09:35 PM
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I'm just trying to be of service, sharing my experiences in this forum. My motivation is to help myself and others avoid costly and/or dangerous modification issues. The instructions that came with my kit mentioned purchasing aftermarket hardware to replace the stock bolt (if it happened to be metric)(the kit was SAE).

Perhaps Maxlift has redesigned the product, my install was back in Decmber of 2011.
The only mention of additional equipment in my rather poorly printed out instructions was the alignment and the possible use of the nut extenders. I did gather that camber adjusters were gonna be necessary from your post to bring in correct alignment, so I counted on that. After it rolled out of the install bay they were pretty canted so I figured it'd be the smart bet to do so.

So, you think you can stretch the bar 2" without damage, the spacer blocks raise the van 2", pulling on the bar? I don't care what came in the kit, I put a 4" lift in a 4x4, and had to drop the sway bar and replace the shocks, I know it's a different height but it's the same argument, you need to do the shocks and sway bar bracket. As the suspension moves down it pulls away from the sway bar, 2" makes it very tight, it's weaker too, gonna wear the bushings out on it fast. Like your shocks, the stroke is totally different, making them ineffective, "real" lift manufactures always suggest upgrading when going 2". I used to budget lift stuff, then go back and correct everything I skipped later on, I'm just trying to give you a heads up before you damage something.
This is my first lift on a vehicle so I was unaware that this might be necessary. No mention was made in the kit instructions but you seem adamant about it so I'm gonna look into it. I had plans to put new shocks in because my right rear had developed a leak. From what I gather, stock length Bilsteins work fine which brings me to the question why I would not require longer shocks if this is so critical in a lifted vehicle? Also, does anyone have a source for the sway bar drop brackets? I can't seem to find them online.

I didn't mean to come off so brash on you guys, I apologize. It's just that with the cost of the kit/install/alignment/shocks it's starting to dig a little deeper into my pockets than I had originally planned and each time I turn around there seems to be someone telling me not to forget about _____ part.
 
  #22  
Old 02-26-2012, 09:42 PM
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I hope you all get this figured out so I can finally install mine.
 
  #23  
Old 02-27-2012, 03:18 AM
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I've not seen a block lift yet that indicated extras would be necessary because they know their buyers are budget lifting and would be scared off, my 2" add a leaf didn't indicate it either, but after adding it. I noticed my sway bar was pulled so tight that it almost eliminated downward travel all together, you could see it deforming the bushings when I decided to jack a wheel off the pavement. It doesn't seem like much but it's a lot when your sway bar is setup to be level with the mounting points, you change the geometry and you're loosing travel, putting it in a strain. Look at a 4" lift sway bar bracket re-locator, not only does it lower the bar, it sets it back toward the axle, others simply just change the end links, but the Ford van front bar isn't that type. Keep an eye on your bushings, the ones on the radius arms too, older vans will notice a quick degrading of these Items as they have broken in to the factory arrangement, and may start cracking, be ready to replace them, upgrade to polyurethane bushings. You may get by with the swaybar as is, as long as you stay on the road, shocks too, but be warned, they lost 2" of travel, if they top out, it will bust the valve in it. Shocks, I went behind the counter, got the details on the stock shocks, added 2" and looked to match that, important that it has the stud bolt on top and open hoop on the bottom, it tightens them up, because the higher up the piston is forced to ride, the weaker the function, especially in old ones.
Enjoy, just remember, you raised the center of gravity, making it more susceptible to roll over, don't let anyone fool you, that, and the narrow rear track is what gave the 15 passenger vans the black eye.
 
  #24  
Old 02-27-2012, 06:02 PM
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I've not seen a block lift yet that indicated extras would be necessary because they know their buyers are budget lifting and would be scared off, my 2" add a leaf didn't indicate it either, but after adding it. I noticed my sway bar was pulled so tight that it almost eliminated downward travel all together, you could see it deforming the bushings when I decided to jack a wheel off the pavement. It doesn't seem like much but it's a lot when your sway bar is setup to be level with the mounting points, you change the geometry and you're loosing travel, putting it in a strain.
I put my van on the rack just a few minutes ago to have a look. Indeed the sway bar up front is very tight and has a steep angle as it goes through the bushings. It would seem that a sway bar riser kit would be a pretty basic install, two bolts per side. Where can I get these?

Look at a 4" lift sway bar bracket re-locator, not only does it lower the bar, it sets it back toward the axle, others simply just change the end links, but the Ford van front bar isn't that type. Keep an eye on your bushings, the ones on the radius arms too, older vans will notice a quick degrading of these Items as they have broken in to the factory arrangement, and may start cracking, be ready to replace them, upgrade to polyurethane bushings. You may get by with the swaybar as is, as long as you stay on the road, shocks too, but be warned, they lost 2" of travel, if they top out, it will bust the valve in it. Shocks, I went behind the counter, got the details on the stock shocks, added 2" and looked to match that, important that it has the stud bolt on top and open hoop on the bottom, it tightens them up, because the higher up the piston is forced to ride, the weaker the function, especially in old ones.
I need you to answer these to the best of your knowledge:

Who has swaybar drop kits? I can't do much without a supplier, my machining tools right now consist of bench and angle grinders.

What Bilsteins offer 2" of additional lift , will work with an e250, and where might I find them? I do plan on going off road so the front end will be abused. (EDIT: I just talked to one of Bilsteins distributor reps on the phone and he recommended part number 24-184656 which is for an older van but offers more travel for the lifted van and will work in newer vans. Issue solved.)

Where did you get the 2" lifted leaf springs? By the sound of it I would also need a swaybar kit for that as well.

Thanks for your help.
 
  #25  
Old 02-27-2012, 09:36 PM
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I put in an add a leaf, makes them ride rough as a cob, something that results from using a short thick spring to add more arch, I prefer long leaves to aid in it, not offered for every application. If your springs are 3" wide, you can search for a long add a leaf spring to a 80's Chevy 4x4 truck front, then a short one for your application, could result in 3" lift tho. For 2" of lift in the rear many go with a block, but it increases axle wrap, and in my vehicles, the torque of my vehicle would bust them, sliding my axle off center, loosing alignment and causing dog tracking, not to mention the other destruction, yet you can use blocks from a 70's Ford 4x4 truck, they're Iron.
Swaybar drop brackets, I don't know makers to them, you could make your own if you have any fabrication skills, using pieces of C-channel or square tubing, 2" obviously, remembering it goes down and back, not straight down. Making your own, bolt it to the bar, hold in place while marking the holes in the frame, or see if you can re-drill the frame, setting the holes back to bolt the block and bar through together with long bolts. Much of my stuff, I found a way to do on my own, I made a drop for my transfer case mount and spacer for the transmission mount to get my front driveshaft to miss the bracket, don't believe in cutting structural supports, so I got by without part suppliers at times.

Unbolt your swaybar where it bolts to the frame, the hoops, hold them 2" away from the frame with the bar in the factory axle bushings and vision the block, it's not difficult.
 
  #26  
Old 03-05-2012, 08:55 PM
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I just talked to one of Bilsteins distributor reps on the phone and he recommended part number 24-184656 which is for an older van but offers more travel for the lifted van and will work in newer vans. Issue solved.
The shock is about an inch longer. It also has the following drawback(s):

On a 2003 250 you will need the steel eyelet in the bottom shock mount pressed out before you order them. In other words you just need the rubber bushing, not the steel bushing tube that runs through it. It is bonded to the rubber bushing and must be pressed out with the right tools. The stock lower mount on the van has no need for the for this steel eyelet.

Also, the stock lower shock stud on the van itself is weak and pathetic. It is a pressed in low quality part. I think some grade 8 hardware is in order.......
 
  #27  
Old 05-13-2013, 11:19 AM
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Tire Size with Maxx-Lift Coil Spacers

Will a 265/75/16 fit with this lift? Found some flaken wildpeak A/T's for a good price.
Thanks for any info

Terry
 
  #28  
Old 04-23-2019, 12:25 AM
Jarrett Semo
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Originally Posted by earlybroncnut View Post
Will a 265/75/16 fit with this lift? Found some flaken wildpeak A/T's for a good price.
Thanks for any info

Terry
yes you should be able to fit a 265/75/16 depending on the width of the rim. Anything wider than a 10 rim will not be able to fit without some major trimming. But anything smaller will fit no probem just with some minor front bumper plastic trimming. I am running a 275/55/20 with just some stiffer coils from sd springs. It raised my van about 2inches as well. Its on a 20x10 and I had to trim the rear quarter and some of the inside metal of the wheel well. Hope that answers your question.
 
  #29  
Old 04-23-2019, 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett Semo View Post
yes you should be able to fit a 265/75/16 depending on the width of the rim. Anything wider than a 10 rim will not be able to fit without some major trimming. But anything smaller will fit no probem just with some minor front bumper plastic trimming. I am running a 275/55/20 with just some stiffer coils from sd springs. It raised my van about 2inches as well. Its on a 20x10 and I had to trim the rear quarter and some of the inside metal of the wheel well. Hope that answers your question.
This thread is just about 6 years old---no replies or follow ups since 2013. The original poster has already done this to their satisfaction or moved on to something else or no longer owns the vehicle discussed.
 
  #30  
Old 05-12-2019, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gfoster82 View Post
I have a set of coil spacers for sale if interested,they are brand new never installed $90.
Just the Delrin Hockey Pucks, or something else too...???
 

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