No smoke when cranking/No start unless plugged in.
#1
No smoke when cranking/No start unless plugged in.
Just as the title says. The new truck doesn't want to start without being plugged in. Cranks over fine. Has new batteries. Fuel in the fuel bowl. HPOP res is full. GPR is working. I haven't tested the glowplugs but I am concerned that might not be the problem since there is no smoke out of the tailpipe when cranking. The previous owner told me it was glow plugs but I'm just not so sure. I've had bad glow plugs on the OBS and it always smoked while cranking and after starting rough. This truck just cranks but no smoke, no nothing unless you plug it in.
With the HPOP res full and fuel bowl full, what should i be looking towards? Injectors? IPR? I don't have a scanner yet... working on getting AE. Could it be a compression issue? The truck has more blowby than my OBS but isn't enough to blow the oil filler cap off. Truck has 144k miles.
I guess I would like to know where you guys would start searching for the problem...
With the HPOP res full and fuel bowl full, what should i be looking towards? Injectors? IPR? I don't have a scanner yet... working on getting AE. Could it be a compression issue? The truck has more blowby than my OBS but isn't enough to blow the oil filler cap off. Truck has 144k miles.
I guess I would like to know where you guys would start searching for the problem...
#2
Just as the title says. The new truck doesn't want to start without being plugged in. Cranks over fine. Has new batteries. Fuel in the fuel bowl. HPOP res is full. GPR is working. I haven't tested the glowplugs but I am concerned that might not be the problem since there is no smoke out of the tailpipe when cranking. The previous owner told me it was glow plugs but I'm just not so sure. I've had bad glow plugs on the OBS and it always smoked while cranking and after starting rough. This truck just cranks but no smoke, no nothing unless you plug it in.
With the HPOP res full and fuel bowl full, what should i be looking towards? Injectors? IPR? I don't have a scanner yet... working on getting AE. Could it be a compression issue? The truck has more blowby than my OBS but isn't enough to blow the oil filler cap off. Truck has 144k miles.
I guess I would like to know where you guys would start searching for the problem...
With the HPOP res full and fuel bowl full, what should i be looking towards? Injectors? IPR? I don't have a scanner yet... working on getting AE. Could it be a compression issue? The truck has more blowby than my OBS but isn't enough to blow the oil filler cap off. Truck has 144k miles.
I guess I would like to know where you guys would start searching for the problem...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ky-thread.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-you-did.html
#3
If plugging the truck in makes it start every time, then I would be pulling the valve covers and watching for oil discharge from the injectors. ICP and IPR shouldn't be affected by plugging the truck in, but worn injectors will work better when the oil is warmed up.
And for trouble shooting this, the method is exactly the same as on the OBS. The SD doesn't have any parts that would change how the truck did or didn't start.
And for trouble shooting this, the method is exactly the same as on the OBS. The SD doesn't have any parts that would change how the truck did or didn't start.
#4
If plugging the truck in makes it start every time, then I would be pulling the valve covers and watching for oil discharge from the injectors. ICP and IPR shouldn't be affected by plugging the truck in, but worn injectors will work better when the oil is warmed up.
And for trouble shooting this, the method is exactly the same as on the OBS. The SD doesn't have any parts that would change how the truck did or didn't start.
And for trouble shooting this, the method is exactly the same as on the OBS. The SD doesn't have any parts that would change how the truck did or didn't start.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
No, don't plug it in at first. Watch the oil discharge while someone cranks the engine. See how many injectors you have not spitting oil. If it starts up, let it run and warm up. As the engine heats up, you'll see the oil start flowing better and start coming out of the injectors that were not spitting oil cold.
Then if you want, let it cool down and then plug it in for a couple of hours to see what difference the block heater makes in terms of how much or how many injectors are spitting oil.
Then if you want, let it cool down and then plug it in for a couple of hours to see what difference the block heater makes in terms of how much or how many injectors are spitting oil.
#9
Ok guys, new twist...
I took off the intercooler pipes, intake, and vc's. Had a friend crank on it after sitting for about two weeks and no plug in. I was looking for oil coming out the injector spouts and it started right up. Smoked like a pig ran for about 1 1/2 minutes. All the injectors spit oil. Then I went to shut it off but it died as I reached for the key. With all the injectors spitting oil, I'm not sure that is my problem anymore, not sure why it started first crank... Not sure why it died...
Any ideas?
I took off the intercooler pipes, intake, and vc's. Had a friend crank on it after sitting for about two weeks and no plug in. I was looking for oil coming out the injector spouts and it started right up. Smoked like a pig ran for about 1 1/2 minutes. All the injectors spit oil. Then I went to shut it off but it died as I reached for the key. With all the injectors spitting oil, I'm not sure that is my problem anymore, not sure why it started first crank... Not sure why it died...
Any ideas?
#10
A minute and half would be right about when the GP's shut off. Could it be so low on compression it will only run on a warm motor or the GP's on? Try jumping the relay and see if it runs then.
A second thought, Could a bad temp sensor not let it know it is cold enough to turn on the gp's unless it is real cold then let it think it is warm after a few seconds and allow the pcm to treat it like a warm engine and cause it to stall? I don't know what is changed for warn/cold running, but I'm sure electronic engines change some parameters.
A second thought, Could a bad temp sensor not let it know it is cold enough to turn on the gp's unless it is real cold then let it think it is warm after a few seconds and allow the pcm to treat it like a warm engine and cause it to stall? I don't know what is changed for warn/cold running, but I'm sure electronic engines change some parameters.
#11
#12
It seems to have quit right when the gp's go off, try manually jumping the relay and see if it runs until you pull the jumper than dies again. That would show if it only runs as along as the gp's stay on or something else caused it to die around the same time.
#13
I got it to start again just now but it ran super rough and died after about 25 seconds this time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bz1zQ8YmonI
Sorry about pointing the camera into the sun... At the end, I was trying to keep it alive and the throttle wasn't responding very well and it died...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bz1zQ8YmonI
Sorry about pointing the camera into the sun... At the end, I was trying to keep it alive and the throttle wasn't responding very well and it died...