2004-SUPERDUTY-250 4X4 6.0
140K-REPLACED EGR stock at dealer(3-MONTH AGO)
ALL STOCK (NO TUNE OR SCAN)

It all started a long long time ago (3 days) in a distant land far far away ( south al. )where magicly trucks transport people anywhere they wish. Without a thought these super-beings hop in these increable vehicals,and with no more then a frick of the wrist they are off. To travle and explore this dream like world to do anything they wish. BUT LIKE ALL GOOD THINGS.........IT'S A FREAK'EN *&#@$#....*&^&*%$#.....AUGGGGGHHHHH.. FAIRY TALE!!!!!

OK,..back in the real world,3 days ago dealer looks at truck.(after it overheated on the way back from one of those "fairy tale" morning in the woods) Oil in coolant......new oil cooler didn,t drive it anymore. Not work,n much moneys tight so ,decided that I am going to have to stumble though this "myself". After alittle research I felt good about it,so I (removed thrmo.)flushed coolant syst.-1st- with simple green 4 times -
2nd-cv-9 \ 3- times. BUT ON THE LAST FLUSH got in the truck gave it little gas(while I let it run for about 20 mins.)to about 2000 rpms.Then I noticed a "knock" that wasn't where before like a "lifter" or "rod" at the time thought something got wet "belt or pulley" so drained ,quit for the night.
The next morning I needed fuel bad,no oil in coolant,no overheating like when I first stated flushing. 3\4 mile -45 mph no big deal, BUT ON THE WAY BACK ,I saw a fine cloud of "white smoke"and it was follow''n ME! ,,ya,,, "good fell'n,,,, gone"! THINK 2ND GEAR -2500 to 3000 RPMS- let off gas or get down to 1500 - 2000rpms NO SMOKE. Get to the house same -NO white smoke at idle - gas it to 3000 rpms white smoke. "the knock" ??? help!!

Pretty sure, I've got to replace oil cooler ,but not clear on why it's not leak'n oil into coolant anymore? So I think'n I need to resovle this new issue (smoke)at the same time, I think ?

1.replacing oil cooler
2.new knock after flushing
3.fine white smoke (only w\t load on motor)not at idle
4.egr replaced 3 month ago
5.all stock\no scan or tune
6.hard to belive but ,I don't know s#@! and the older I get the more I realize I need PROFESSIONAL HELP.

THANKS FOR THE GREAT SITE ,tons of great info. down loaded bunch helpful stuff. I sure appreciate any time you may have help me.
thanks again,

 

Sorry ,I didn't explain that I new here and there is probably a thread or something on here that may help me.I think "BLOOD IS SHOOTING FROM MY EYEBALLS" from reading threads for 12 hrs. Just trying to find my way around and get this truck run. I've retired ford's w\t 550k -E250 van - F150 gas burners. Diesel whole new animal.

 

sounds like injector knocking, probably have an injector that needs replace

 

Ya ,I " jumped the gun" thinking the worst. Don,t have alot of expireance with diesl's. Un-burn fuel in cylinded -smoke \knock sound (like a rod)makes scents. Going to look around for somthing to help figure out which ones bad,before I start tearing it down and replace it while I'am in there.
Thanks, PS 100

 

did u check ur egr cooler? also, check the egr cooler hose to oil cooler....the orange rubber hose. check if tats worn out and leaking. if all's good, then i tink it might be ur egr cooler since u still got white smoke. to confirm, please run ur car, then pull the egr valve out and check the receptacle in there if there's any moist soot. if it is, then it confirms tat the egr cooler is busted.

i dunno bout tis but i dont tink tat simple green is recommended for doing the coolant flush. only the vc-9 for flushing. then u gotta use distilled water to complete the flush too. when u did the coolant flush, did the distilled water run perfectly clear? tats the first indicator. it has to be perfect.

btw, if i'm wrong, i'll be corrected by the senior guys on here. sorry to hear about ur stress and frustrations. i know how tat feels. i hope u can find a solution to ur probs. i'll do my best to chime in wif any other crazy ideas tat might pop in my head. the other guys will also chime in as well. hang in there.

 

yeah but he did mention tat the knocking occurred after the flushing. hence, i'm inclined to tink it's more closely related to watever went wrong during the flushing process. no offense pal. jus my 2 cents.

 

If it was a rod knock because of water after the flush I would assume by now the truck would hydrolock,
park your truck on an incline over night, *** end in the air and nose down, pull the egr valve in the morning and look for water and report back

 

Thank for the reply' I read about using the "simply green" on a thread here from someone who seems to be very knowledgable about 6.0 s, from reading his other posts.
From what I gathered it's just to start the process of breaking down the "gray slugg" and then finishing up with cv-9 .I rigged up a hose to my hot water tank, help alot and got the water coming out clear. Planning on a coolant filter install too.

Don't know if how the two are related ,the flush and the "knock'' or if they are at all.Maybe a sensor got too wet and went out ?? But I need to figure it out before I go anyfuther and do what ever needs to be done while I have apart ,don't have to tear it down again. Or worse do more damage to it.
Appriate any help or anyone who got a couple of mins. to help out,Thanks

 

Welcome to FTE! Hate to hear your having problems, but hopefully we can help you get everything straightened out.If it is an injector (really sounds like it is) there is no connection...it just happened. I lost one three months ago...just out of the blue it went. I've got good fuel pressure and I'm anul on my PM...it just cracked the tip for what ever reason. There are a couple of ways to figure out which one it is. The easiest, best way is with an Auto Enginty/IDS system. You might check in the Alabama chapter to see if there is someone near you that's got an AE that can hook up to your truck and do a contribution/balance test. That will tell you if it is an injector and which one it is. Another idea is using an infrared thermometer you can measure the exhaust temp at each exhaust port. The one with a bad injector will be either hotter or colder than the others. The only other way...and it's a PITA is to disconnect the injector wire harness at each injector...one by one until you figure out which one it is. The bad injector will have no/little effect on the engine when you unplug it; the others will cause it to run rough or even die. All three methods are going to require you to run/idle the truck.

 

egr was just re placed 3-month ago. You think got clogged and went out that fast? You rght beeter look any way.

 

I've been think'n on the disconting each wire thing, probley going to be my best opption with no scan or anything. Got to go "old school" on it ,not going to be fun thats for sure.
Funny, just moved from AR. (Monroe, just south of sttugart) don't know anybody here, sure miss'n home right now. Go Hogs!!!! look out cotton bowl!!!!

 

Take your time and make sure you get each one reconnected good before you move to the next or you'll be creating more problems than solutions. Been there, done that...got the scars to prove it.Yeah, it's a pain when you don't know anyone. You might check in the Alabama chapter to see if there is someone near you that has an AE. Alabama Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums It has helped a couple of guys here in AR in the past.I was hoping they'd get a decent team...like maybe OSU or Texas instead of Kansas State. Heck, I'd settle for a rematch of Alabama or LSU at this point. Oh well, a bowl game is a bowl game...so I'll take what I can get.

 

ya, love to have played OSU ,that would have been a great match up-2 high powerd offences -what a scoring feast that would be, I know we deseve a game like that!!!!But BCS says only 2 teams from each conf. for bcs bowls.Let's get OSU in the SEC insted of "Missouri" see how they like that first season? Hell, all we did was lose 2 games,to the two best teams in all of collage football. Sorry,got to stop ,might and to make a firend,,,,,Roll tide!!!!

 

the problem with the EGR cooler is not clogging, it's that the coolant doesn't flow through it enough due to the clogged oil cooler, which feeds coolant to the EGR cooler after cooling the oil. If the flow is reduced enough, the hot exhaust will boil the coolant in the EGR cooler and then you have no coolant in the EGR, you have steam; now the metal fails and you get a leak of coolant into exhaust flow. So yes, even though it's only three months old (or a day old), if the oil cooler was clogged then your EGR cooler is toast now. The people who changed your EGR cooler should have changed your oil cooler at the same time.

If you've got oil in your cooling system, you have to fix the leak, meaning you need the new oil cooler; then you need to flush with Simple Green HD (it's purple) which doesn't make suds, and then change all the rubber in the cooling system (they've soaked up oil and can't be fixed); then flush with Restore, then flush with Restore Plus or VC-9, then flush with distilled water, then fill with coolant. Each time "flush" was in this paragraph, that means add the chosen chemical, top with tap water, run for a while to get it hot and let the chemical do it's work, then drain and fill with tap water, run for a while, drain and fill with tap water... repeat until it's coming out clear. That will take a few times, since at least 2 gallons are left even if you open every drain you can reasonably reach including the block drain plugs. Some of us have installed Fumoto valves in those block drains for just this reason. The final flushing process, to clear the last chemical before adding coolant, needs to be distilled water for however many fills it takes to clean it, may take over 20 gals of distilled.

All this flushing is necessary but it may clog your new oil cooler again. Since it hasn't 'set' for a long time, you should try to recover it if this happens by backflushing it.

The way you know how clogged your oil cooler is is that you watch a monitor/gauge such as a Scangauge or Insight that can tell you the temp of your oil and your coolant. If the oil is more than 15° warmer than the coolant at operating conditions, then the oil cooler is clogged, which will kill your EGR cooler again.

 

Yes, I did all the "flushing" with green\cv--9 , run it 20 -30 mins. disconnteted hoses pump water through it ( rig hose to hot water tank ). BUT I didn,t do the the "block drains",dam missed that one. So you think if I don,t remove "block drains" no way I 'am getting it all out ?even if I flushed it 8 times ( 2- cv-9 ) didn't do "restore" either)

I want to do it right, but don,t have any "gray slugg" any more.
Just ask'n ,but I think I know the answer.

Without drain plugs ,could get a little hot.tricky ,any ideas?

thanks for all ya'lls time , back to "2003 table book"