Just recently traded off my 6.0 with 300,000 miles for a 2008 king ranch 6.4 with 120,000 miles. It has a 4" turbo back straight pipe exhaust, and an edge evolution programmer installed. As far as I know, the egr is still functioning normally.

1st question: I am only getting about 11 mpg with mixed highway and city driving on level 2...if I bump it up to 3 or 4 will this help or hurt the fuel mileage?

2nd question: Where I am currently working, it is ranging from 0 to 20 degrees farenheit, and the motor will not get over 130 degrees. Maybe a stuck thermostat?? I put cardboard in front of the radiator, and it warms up a lot better.

3rd question: I want to put a front end leveling kit on it, has anyone had problems with the leveling kit??

 

Hi, it sounds like you have the same edge I have. Is it the racing evolution? There are several edge models. The racing model allows the DPF to be removed. Edge sent out a letter a while back, they are no longer making any products that allow the removal of the DPF. Sounded like the EPA or California CARB got to them. Since you have the 4 inch down pipe I assume the DPF is gone. 10 to 11 MPG sounds just a little low. What rear axle ratio do you have and is it a DRW truck? If it's a 4.30 DRW then 11-13 is about right. I've never tried level 3 or 4 but I towed on level 2 (that's what edge recommends) and could not tell any difference in mileage from stock, about 9.5. In fact towing on level 1 seems to do a bit better, maybe 10. If you drive the truck very easy it will help. Keep the RPMs below 2000 and the boost below 20 lbs. Thease engines just like fuel, a lot. BTW, welcome to the forum. Oh yeah, these trucks have some stat problems. just put it in the search and read all about it.

 

How far are driving. In those low temps if you are driving short trips it wont heat up!

 

My t-stats did the same a few months back, I was driving to texas in AUG. During the night my truck went into derate mode because the DPF was clogged. Running it with a cold motor would not allow the DPF to do its cleaning cycle. I had to take my road atlas and open it up and put it infront of the radiator for the rest of the trip. When it finally got back up to operating temp it went through two cleaning cycles back to back, and my mpg's returned to normal.

When I got it to the shop they pulled the t-stat housing and one t-stat was not in the housing correctly, and both were missing rubber around the edges.

Hope this helps, Mark

 

It is the racing evolution, with the dpf delete option. The dpf on the truck is deleted. I drive about 30 miles to work, half freeway, half back roads. When I get to work, it still sits around 130...

It is a srw truck, not sure about the gear ratio, but cruising at 70 it runs about 1800 rpm.

 

Must be a 3.73. At 70 I'm around 2600. Like I said above, you can improve the mileage a by driving like an old man. Well heck, I am an old man and I try to drive like a real old man. Other than that these suckers drink fuel. About your temperature, if the guages are showing the truck to be warm it probably is. These trucks sound different than eariler diesels and with the DPF off they sound more like a small jet engine than a truck. If you doubt your truck guages you can set up the edge to monitor temps. I watch both oil and coolant temp. If you got the book with the edge it tells you how to set it up. If you don't have the book I can talk you through it.

 

I have been using the edge to monitor temps. Truck gauge never comes off cold, and my edge says 140 after 45 minutes of driving..

 

Sounds to me like you should take it in for a possible stuck or hyperextended thermostat issue.

Symptom is no heat so that is what I would be telling them. Ensure you are not low on coolant.

That programmer may present a problem for you though...it shouldn't as it has nothing to do with the problem...but they will probably want it back to stock to do the diag.

 

This programmer doesn't let me turn off the dpf on stock setting. Won't this be a problem if I take it to the dealership?

 

As i said you need to know your SA and how the dealership views the programmer. Best advice is for you to take it back to stock to include the programming and remove the Edge.

My dealer is different and they do not mind it but others might.

 

He bought the truck used with 120K, he may not even have the dpf. Do you? What we mean by return to stock is to put the DPF back on and reset the edge to stock then remove the edge.

In this case I don't think it matters because of mileage. Unless of course you have some kind of extended warranty. If it's not under warranty there is no reason I can think of to hide the edge. I guess I missed where the heater isn't working, and 140 degrees is too cold. Mine is at 190 to 200 and hotter when towing in summer. or a little over.

 

The t-stat issue sounds the same as mine. Abut 3 months ago my 08 f450 wouldn't warm up even after my 30min commute to work. Seems the 6.4 has two thermostats and my lower one was stuck in the open position allowing full coolant flow and preventing the engine from reaching full operating temp. Luckly the t-stats are covered by the new extended radiator warranty. I wouldn't think having a tuner would affect that, but someone else may have better info on that.

 

The dpf is removed, that's why I can't turn the chip to stock, because the computer tries to regenerate, but there is nothing there. The edge programmer doesn't have an option for dpf delete on stock setting, only if you put it on levels 1-4

 

Yep, yours is the same as mine. I learned that the hard way, turned it to stock and by the time I backed down the drive the REGEN alarm was going off. Did you get the DPF with the truck? I still don't think it matters, I think with 120,000 miles you are out of any warranty. I don't know how hard the stats are to get to, maybe you can change it yourself, or your local diesel shop would probably do it cheaper than ford.

 

I watched the technitions do mine when I was in texas, it was not a dealership. just a diesel shop that did mostly big rigs, but also light duty diesels too. They started at 0930 and didnt get done untill 5 pm. there was two guys on it, except when they rotated out during lunch. As far as hard, it was not to hard, but very tedious, and you have to remove alot! compaired to the old school t-stats i remember changing on older vehicles i have owned.

As far as price, I had the t-stats, oil change and a coolant flush at the same time, and they only quoted me $380 for the whole job. For that quote I would pay to have it done then loose a whole saturday in my garage doing it myself.... But thats just me, Hope this helped, Mark