I have an 85 351W from a F-150 pick-up which I am just starting to tear apart for a rebuild noticed I have heads which are labled D80E with a AB below it, are these heads any good? I've heard of E7, GT40, GT40P and D0OP, I've never heard any body talk about D8OE heads, is that because they are P0OP?

I plan on putting this engine in a 62 Ford F-250 4x4, I recently ordered an Edelbrock Performer intake, a Comp Cams Xtreme 4x4 advertised duration 262/270, lift .493/.512 also a HEI Distributor, will this set up work till I can get different heads? also will I have to replace stock valve springs with something heavier? in the paperwork for the cam it states valve springs required, but nothing else although I havent recieved the cam yet.

 

lol, yeah...

just a ford smog head, the E7's are better, and any of the GT40's are better, then aftermarket heads. but they will work for now, but I would step up the valve springs for sure, even though it doesn't need anything extreme. And if you didn't get a cam "kit" make sure you get lifters, and I would recommend a roller timing chain as well.

 

Yeah the D8 heads have rather large combustion chambers at 68-70cc so compression ratio is low, swap on E7's and you get a 1/2 point bump in CR for your efforts bringing it to about 8.8:1 from 8.3.

 

Thanks guys, I new I had P0OP!! Its just my luck.

 

Getting rid of my D80E heads replacing with Edelbrock-E-Street heads, still in the process of getting parts lined up has anybody used these heads yet? hopefully they work as good as they look.

 

get the 1.9 intakes...

 

Cool, those are the ones I got, any reason why you say the 1.9 intakes? just wondering
thanks for your input, mike

 

I think the bigger valves will kill some low end torque.. with the cam I think you would be better off... I got a set of Roush heads here that have the big intake ports and 2?? intake valve... only thing they are good for is a stroker.. got a roller 351w waiting for a 4" crank.. again that's just me... I would run the smaller valve at your level of performance...

 

Thanks, for the info

 

Just for info, the other thing you've got to watch out for if you go with the 2.10 valves is that it often requires flycutting the pistons to get sufficient valve to piston clearance. It's normally not an issue with the 1.90's - but always check it anyway!

 

Thanks, for the info there too, could you guys tell me, I have been debating roller rockers by Comp Cams 1442-16, ratio 1.6 for 3/8 stud or just stock rockers is there much difference, would either of those change pushrod length from stock specs, i will check for clearence with pistons, but trying to find a starting point.
any thoughts or suggestions, thanks

 

I'm not sure about the e-street heads (renamed performers?) But I'm willing to bet that they would need to be modified to use studs for the rockers. Stock rockets would work ok but stud and rollers would grab you a couple horses a a little strength if you have the pocket change. On both you would need to check pushrod length, more so with the stockers because they are not adjustable, but on the rollers too because the roller tip might be too close to the edge of the valve stem.

 

The Edelbrock heads I have, have threaded studs in them for rockers Im kinda of confused on which type I Have; between pedestal, stud and rail im pretty sure they must be stud but correct if im wrong, please.
Im kinda leading toward the roller tip rockers, im just concerned on push rod length and where to start, is it best to start from stock length and adjust from there, the old heads just had a bolt with a rocker and pivot point, no adjustment. Does that change now and how do you know with hydraulic lifters where to start?