Wheel Hop Question
#1
Wheel Hop Question
yesterday i noticed that my leafspring mounts were totally shot.
i have a thread over on ob.net about it and wheel hop was brought up.
this is my question:
thanks
i have a thread over on ob.net about it and wheel hop was brought up.
this is my question:
what does wheel hop feel like? i have heard and read about it and traction bars and such for when sled pulling.
i don't have a close guess as to when the drivers side totally broke but it was NOT broken this past june. i have noticed that sometimes when i am gettin' with the program when taking off from stop lights ther is a kind of "lurch/jolt" i guess you could say when it shifts. lately when the roads have been wet i have to baby it off the line or i will spin the tires. doon't know if this is related. another thing that popped up this summer out of no where is when i am braking i get a shudder i would call it. don't think that it is brakes b/c i don't feel it in the pedal and the brakes are new and look good. could this shudder when breaking be related to this broken mount as well?
i don't have a close guess as to when the drivers side totally broke but it was NOT broken this past june. i have noticed that sometimes when i am gettin' with the program when taking off from stop lights ther is a kind of "lurch/jolt" i guess you could say when it shifts. lately when the roads have been wet i have to baby it off the line or i will spin the tires. doon't know if this is related. another thing that popped up this summer out of no where is when i am braking i get a shudder i would call it. don't think that it is brakes b/c i don't feel it in the pedal and the brakes are new and look good. could this shudder when breaking be related to this broken mount as well?
#2
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
Posts: 18,724
Likes: 0
Received 37 Likes
on
31 Posts
wheel hop cannot be confused with anything else.it's exactly as it sounds.
if you do a burnout with rear leaf springs,chances are your going to notice it as you bounce up and down in the seat.
this is why they made traction bars.
Summit Racing SUM-770501 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Traction Bars - Overview - SummitRacing.com
a "shutter" could be torque converter failure and is a much,much different feel.also very unique.
this could explain your recent (well recent to informing us about it) E40D performance issue.did you get your TPS replaced and set within specs yet? if not,start there asap.the TPS doesn't just control shift points but also alters the converters lock/unlock state.
i just check out your thread over there.holy crap man.
you let them things go a day or two too long.
no yearly state inspections in MI i take it? you really need to check things out yourself at least every 6 months.that gets a little dangerous.good to see you replace 'em.
if you do a burnout with rear leaf springs,chances are your going to notice it as you bounce up and down in the seat.
this is why they made traction bars.
Summit Racing SUM-770501 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Traction Bars - Overview - SummitRacing.com
a "shutter" could be torque converter failure and is a much,much different feel.also very unique.
this could explain your recent (well recent to informing us about it) E40D performance issue.did you get your TPS replaced and set within specs yet? if not,start there asap.the TPS doesn't just control shift points but also alters the converters lock/unlock state.
i just check out your thread over there.holy crap man.
you let them things go a day or two too long.
no yearly state inspections in MI i take it? you really need to check things out yourself at least every 6 months.that gets a little dangerous.good to see you replace 'em.
#3
a "shutter" could be torque converter failure and is a much,much different feel.also very unique.
this could explain your recent (well recent to informing us about it) E40D performance issue.did you get your TPS replaced and set within specs yet? if not,start there asap.
i just check out your thread over there.holy crap man.
you let them things go a day or two too long.
no yearly state inspections in MI i take it? you really need to check things out yourself at least every 6 months.that gets a little dangerous.good to see you replace 'em.
this could explain your recent (well recent to informing us about it) E40D performance issue.did you get your TPS replaced and set within specs yet? if not,start there asap.
i just check out your thread over there.holy crap man.
you let them things go a day or two too long.
no yearly state inspections in MI i take it? you really need to check things out yourself at least every 6 months.that gets a little dangerous.good to see you replace 'em.
nope on the state inspections. like i said not sure when that exactly happened, but when the truck was at school on the lift for 3 weeks for brake work last may and early june they were fine. the roads up here pound the **** out of suspension components. they obviously were rotted out and the bumps finished them off. i had not noticed any other noises or ride discomfort. that there makes the underside of my truck look bad but the bit of my hitch that you can see there and the spring mounts are all that is rotting. frame is SOLID. body is SOLID.
what is your take on re-using the u-bolts?
#6
i found these on rock auto....
this is the product description....
HUSKY SPRING Part # UA203R
2WD; Greater Than 8500lb GVW; w/ Factory Contact Overload Springs; 5/8" X 3 5/8" X 10 1/2" Round Bend; w/ Deep Nuts & Thick Hardened Washers; For Rear Spring
4WD; Over 8500lb GVW; w/o Factory Helper Springs; 5/8" X 3 5/8" X 10 1/2" Round Bend; w/ Deep Nuts & Thick Hardened Washers; For Rear Spring
would these be the correct u-bolts for my truck? 4 of these plus s&h would run me $55.48. if those are the ones then i would get them for sure. i don't want to spen money if i don't have to but i certainly don't want to be driving along and end up with my rear axle falling off.
this is the product description....
HUSKY SPRING Part # UA203R
2WD; Greater Than 8500lb GVW; w/ Factory Contact Overload Springs; 5/8" X 3 5/8" X 10 1/2" Round Bend; w/ Deep Nuts & Thick Hardened Washers; For Rear Spring
4WD; Over 8500lb GVW; w/o Factory Helper Springs; 5/8" X 3 5/8" X 10 1/2" Round Bend; w/ Deep Nuts & Thick Hardened Washers; For Rear Spring
would these be the correct u-bolts for my truck? 4 of these plus s&h would run me $55.48. if those are the ones then i would get them for sure. i don't want to spen money if i don't have to but i certainly don't want to be driving along and end up with my rear axle falling off.
#7
Easiest way? Go find a local spring shop, and ask them for a set. And out of curiosity, ask them how much to change them out for ya......between the hot wrench to pop them off, and an impact to run them up snug again, and a hoist/pit etc to work in, they can likely do it so cheap and easy compared to what we can at home, that you'll fine the few bucks it costs.
Two things I hate doing on vehicles......trying to undo u-bolts with wrenches and sockets, and repairing old exhaust systems.....both of which I feel are money well spent every time I take them to someone that does them all the time!
Two things I hate doing on vehicles......trying to undo u-bolts with wrenches and sockets, and repairing old exhaust systems.....both of which I feel are money well spent every time I take them to someone that does them all the time!
Trending Topics
#9
Don't have 'a' set....have three....I think. Two setup and ready to go, and I think if I gathered everything up, I could set up another set. Might have to buy a hose to do it.....(tanks I have more than enough.....propane or acetylene!)
The third set were my dad's who passed away last year, they had a strange metal to metal sealing between the handle and the welding tip/cutting head, and leak some. Can be a bit, umm, surprising at times, so they got retired. I understand they can be rebuilt though, and hope to have that done sometime. If not, they'll go into a nostalgia collection or something......
'94....do yourself a favour when you are in there, check (tap with a hammer) the frame in the area of the shock mount, and the front hangar. When I redid my dually a few years ago, the frame was thin in both areas due to the brackets holding the dirt, snow, salt etc in. I ended up doing new front and rear brackets, new shock brackets, new hangers, and new spring pivot bolts on both sides of the rear axle. I also doubled the frame from the cab back to the rear, due to the rusting causing the frame to be thin in a few areas, and knowing I was adding the flatbed dump on it. On top of that, I added a subframe for the bed to rest on and help spread the weight of the bed/load around too.
The third set were my dad's who passed away last year, they had a strange metal to metal sealing between the handle and the welding tip/cutting head, and leak some. Can be a bit, umm, surprising at times, so they got retired. I understand they can be rebuilt though, and hope to have that done sometime. If not, they'll go into a nostalgia collection or something......
'94....do yourself a favour when you are in there, check (tap with a hammer) the frame in the area of the shock mount, and the front hangar. When I redid my dually a few years ago, the frame was thin in both areas due to the brackets holding the dirt, snow, salt etc in. I ended up doing new front and rear brackets, new shock brackets, new hangers, and new spring pivot bolts on both sides of the rear axle. I also doubled the frame from the cab back to the rear, due to the rusting causing the frame to be thin in a few areas, and knowing I was adding the flatbed dump on it. On top of that, I added a subframe for the bed to rest on and help spread the weight of the bed/load around too.
#12
the rain and mold here in seattle drive me to drinking...that and the heavy metals running in my blood... rust isn't a problem here, but it would join that list real quick.
that being said, u-bolts were always easy for me with an angle grinder. and you don't have to know a darn thing to use it. got my own impact guns for installing the new ones.
now for exhaust, i don't mind swapping bolt-in components, but anything beyond that i'll pass it to someone else
that being said, u-bolts were always easy for me with an angle grinder. and you don't have to know a darn thing to use it. got my own impact guns for installing the new ones.
now for exhaust, i don't mind swapping bolt-in components, but anything beyond that i'll pass it to someone else
#13
Somewhere I have the pics of my dually before the overhaul I did on it.....even some experienced guys with floor and rust repair were doubtful it could be worth saving. At the time, I still had a 40hr a week job, so outside of that, I didn't place much value on how long things took.
I was hoping to buy three years out of it, and I think I've gotten 5, so I'm still ahead of the game. Reason I wanted 3 was my other half should have been done school by then.......not 'should have'. The decision was made to continue another round, which has her in school until next summer. So now I'm really trying to limp vehicles along, as I certainly do not want a new vehicle, or the payments that go with one at this point in time.
I was hoping to buy three years out of it, and I think I've gotten 5, so I'm still ahead of the game. Reason I wanted 3 was my other half should have been done school by then.......not 'should have'. The decision was made to continue another round, which has her in school until next summer. So now I'm really trying to limp vehicles along, as I certainly do not want a new vehicle, or the payments that go with one at this point in time.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jeffreyclay
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
5
02-20-2017 11:38 PM
herdfan75
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
12-06-2016 11:10 AM
gearhead351
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
03-05-2006 08:18 AM