okay so im not sure if this EXACTLY has been covered but iv been looking I promise, anyways I just go my hands on a 93 ranger sxt, 3.0 4x4 (doesnt work) 5 speed.
It has this really awful idle, like 700 and makes the whole motor shake side to side, along side that it feels like its spuddering or chugging when driving. has a drastic loss of power and is getting awful gas mileage. I know they arnt susposed to get great but I mean they've gotta be getting better than what I am. thanks for the help guys. its actually really bumming me out. while driving at 65-70 on the interstate in fifth I have to have it floored. if I reach a hill I have to down shift. please help. depression levels are high right now

 

Have you checked the compression in your cylinders? Possibly a clogged fuel filter? Could be a couple bad plugs? Could be lots of stuff. You should start by seeing what the plugs look like. Then go to making sure you have proper fuel pressure. Check the compression. Check vacuum lines.

 

I'd check the MAF for being dirty, check the fuel pressure regulator as if it fails you will get about half of normal fuel mileage, and check the intake manifold seals/gaskets for leaks.
Then again if a 93 does not have a MAF then it has a MAP, and if the MAP goes, the idle will be crappy along with possible terrible mileage.
tom

 

This sounds just like what happened to my 2000 Ranger 3.0. I have to put the gas all the way to floor to get it to start and then runs rough and no power. I took it to an independent shop (because I had some bad experiences with the local Ford dealer) for a tune-up and when they gave it back to me they said it had a miss that they could not get rid of. I kept driving it for a while, putting fuel line cleaner in it but it did not help, it just got worse to the point that I could no longer drive it.

I did finally take it to the dealer and they said they would put it on their scanner for a "Deep Scan". Well, 2 weeks later I had not heard back from the dealer. When I went up there they said they did not know what was wrong with it. They never mentioned any scan results, and I was so freaked out that I forgot to ask.

What their mechanic told me was that They tested the compression and all the cylinders showed no compression. For "about" $600 they would tear it apart and see if there was a problem with the cam.

I had my Ranger towed home and it has sat behind the house for about 8 months now. I am heart broken, I really loved my little truck and drove it for 13 years. I have considered having another engine put in it but I just can't believe the original one is shot. At 180K, it still was not using any oil. I always figured this truck to be good for 300K at least.

Any help would be appreciated, I would probably name my first born after anyone who can figure this out.

Thanks,
Bruce

 

Bruce, you likely need some new valve seats. Somewhere in the production series, there was a change, and the valves started wearing into the seats. That leads to a miss that cannot be overcome. If you have enough bad ones, it won't run for beans.
The other problem area is the ICMP, I think, that took the place of the distributor. It is used for spark and injection timing, I think. It is not lubed well, and may start to squeak, and if so, should be replaced before it breaks and lets the oil pressure drop.
Used engines are available in the $400 range if you want to throw an engine in. You could remove the cylinder heads and have a machine shop fix them for ~$200 or so each, and then re-assemble. You might be surprised how well it can run with just head work.

JHINK, have you checked your plug wires to make sure they are connected to the proper cylinders. The roughness you describe makes me think you have more than one misfiring.
tom

 

okay so i hosed the mess out of the air flow meter with electrical cleaner. let it dry, she's idling around 1100 now, clearly still missing somewhere, went to take it dor a drive and felt like it has a LITTLE more power but that could be a placebo effect lol I didn't get to drive it long enough. the alternator is brand new but the pig tail is loose/broken so she died on me before is had a good chance to really tell. off to pull a part for a new pig tail. also when it started to die is when she started idling like crap again.

 

I had an ICM (Ignition Control Module) go on my 94 Ford Ranger (2.3 L). Tom would probably know if the ICM was burnt up because only half the engine would be working, and with mine, the exhaust system burnt cherry red hot (because the fuel from the two cylinders was not burning up, because the ICM was not directing them to fire at the plugs, and the unused fuel was being sent down the exhaust system burning up along the way) which was easily detectable at night. I ran my truck for a couple of days before realizing what was up and it burnt and clogged my cat. converter. After replacing plugs, wires, coils, and the ICM, and hollowing out the cat. converter, the truck has run smooth for 2 years. That is, until yesterday when my water pump went out which I'm fixing now with the help of this forum.

Another thing with the ICM's is that they can be bench tested at any auto parts store, and they're easy to take off.

 

Have you guys pulled codes yet? Ignition module problems are common as dirt on these Ford trucks, I have a '94 here with a similar occasional miss that I'm pretty certain is related to either the TFI module or the PIP module in the distributor, I have swapped the TFI module with another that improves things but doesn't make it go away completely, but haven't gone in after the PIP module yet because for some reason the *%^$*% distributor is at the back of the motor and is nearly freakin impossible to get at. Sorry... I'm used to ford V8s. Anyway.. step 1 should always be to check the codes, if nothing else this will eliminate a bunch of possibilities.

 

also off topic but my drivers side wiper arm, in the chamber broke today. the guys had it rigged to work for about five minutes when looking at the truck with zip ties. I mean who opens up the wiper chamber when buying a car, really...but the ball joint piece popped out. passengers still works but not the drivers side, you can hear the arm dragging around to inside when you turn the wipers on. any quick tips on fixing that would be cool. but anyways back to the engine. any diagrams to determine which wires go where and it doesn't sound like only half the motor is working but it sure feels like it. cannot be doing the clutch any good driving it the way I have to. how do you check the codes on a non obd2 truck. there's no check engine light but it does work when you turn the truck on it lights up. im going to search these things but am responding before I forget to. trying not to be all gimme gimme on you guys. my old car, a miata. those forums were very unforgiving on searching real hard before asking. all I have is my phone so even asking questions is a real pita. thanks for being helpful and patient thus far.

 

<a href="http://s988.photobucket.com/user/jhink92/media/Mobile%20Uploads/00j0j_cq6d9xAxDjX_600x450_zpsuokaypli.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af7/jhink92/Mobile%20Uploads/00j0j_cq6d9xAxDjX_600x450_zpsuokaypli.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 00j0j_cq6d9xAxDjX_600x450_zpsuokaypli.jpg"/></a>


thats the truck btw. just figured I would show yall what im playing with for inspiration!!!!!! lol

 

maybe this way works

 

Thanks for the replys. I paid the Ford dealer to scan for codes but never heard of any results...I ordered a scanner today, so should know more shortly.

 

hey Bruce, lets see pics of your baby man

 

by the way....fixed the wiper today. might I add thise pivot knuckles are a *h!;! 6!*!;:!^$^$6!&83 (! 93?!*#&#*!** lol managed to get one off a ranger at the junk yard without beating it up to much. woot woot