CVC BOOT ISSUES

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11-27-2011, 06:02 PM

redman02

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CVC BOOT ISSUES

Hi: New to the forum, I checked sites but could not find anything on my problem, hope someone can help.

1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4.6 L 95,000M Two Door-Standard Cab; Auto

I have only owned the truck for two years now. I put on a 2 inch lift, replaced lower ball joints, matched shocks with lift kit and a frt. end was aligned. It’s been 6000 miles and no tire wear problems and goes down the road great.

But I have replaced the upper CVC boot twice in six months on the driver’s side as ripped open and throwing the grease out. The third time a new axel and boots from Ford put in just a month ago so far so good.

But now the passenger side is tore open and throwing grease out that side. That side has had two new boots and has now tore open again. I’m thinking of putting a new axel with boots from Ford in on that side as well, but being the other side has only been on there 6 weeks I’m not sure if I solved it or not.

Am I missing something here? Nobody gets it, even two different techs?

I was wondering if the lift changed the angle enough that I would need a larger boot or something, if there is even such a thing.

I'm about to give up on the rig but I have invest allot of money to restore it and I love the truck but it needs to be reliable.

Any help would be deeply appreciated. The Old guy

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11-27-2011, 06:08 PM

00GT

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Is it a 2" torsion key lift?

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11-27-2011, 06:14 PM

redman02

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Is it a 2" torsion key lift? Yes it was, thanks

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11-28-2011, 12:40 PM

redman02

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CVC BOOTS HELP

Hi:
Yes I used the key lift. I wonder, being the boots open up at what looks like a mold seam if this is bad boots. Three boots opened up on a straight vertical line while the others opened up horizontally in a line where boot goes from large to smaller? Some bought at NAPA and others from supplier not sure who tech used there.

Second could it be the lift? I doubt it but needed some feedback if anybody has had same issues.

Thanks in advance for any help, Redman

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11-29-2011, 02:34 PM

MIKE 04 GT

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a frind of mine got the torson key lift and had the same problem with his boots. he had to put the factory keys back in, and has not had any more problems. the only way to lift it with out putting more strain on the CV joints is to drop the diff. i would put the factory keys back in and just turn up the torsion bars.

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11-29-2011, 02:38 PM

Archion

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The lift keys will work fine, but if you have them cranked all the way up where the control arms are or damn near touching the stops, it will eat boots like nobody's business. Use the procedueres to set ride height as per the factory shop manual, accounting for the added lift and it will be fine. Just went through this on a friends truck with a 2" RC lift.

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11-29-2011, 03:17 PM

redman02

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Mike, you say: i would put the factory keys back in and just turn up the torsion bars.

My question is I got 2 inches of lift from the Gear and I switch it back for the stock one and do a 2 inch TT is that not the same outcome? meaning I have the same problem?

Archion: If the keys were put in and TT adjusted to it getting a two inch lift from stock and if adjust down I would have less that two inch lift, what do I gain? I had a service install with directions and when I picked it up I had a two inch lift I measured it. I might not be understanding the keys situation.

Please advise me, -Redman

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11-29-2011, 03:42 PM

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You have to measure from the specified points as per ford, just measuring the wheel well or whatever is not a good measurment. We still have the 2" lift according to specs. The measurement is taken from the bottom plane of the lower ball joint/(bottom flat of spindle) to the center of the lower control arm pivot point at the frame. I do not have the specs in front of me, but they are in the manual. With it cranked all the way up, it actually rode too high in the front. Adjusting it per the instructions, adding for the lift it actually leveled the truck front to rear. Our particular issue was that the previous owner had already cranked the stock height up to clear bigger tires, and that was what the lift was compared too, not stock ride height. You should have maybe around 3/4" clearance between the upper control arms and the bumpstops that are welded to the frame. It also had ALOT of NVH transfer due to it riding the bumpstops, apparently now that we adjusted it rides a lot smoother. As you are adjusting it, be sure to jounce the suspension between measurments to settle it, we used a power lifting technique on the tow hooks to bounce the truck

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12-01-2011, 09:57 PM

redman02

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Archion:

Thanks for the information as it is explaining the boots I have replaced (4), the bad ride up front - pounding hard and now replacing both axle today as well. I will have to take it back to the guy who put the lift in, not a dealer or auto shop, has his own shop at home w/a few acres I thought he understood what to do, guess not, but he seems like a nice guy. My concern is the steps he takes to reverse it. Are the steps you list the same for a 1997?

Can you or others share what these measurements are: Taken from the bottom plane of the lower ball joint/(bottom flat of spindle) to the center of the lower control arm pivot point at the frame for a 1997 F-150 XLT 4x4 Standard cab?

Or where online I might find this information.

I just had both axels and boots replaced and want to drive it from there to the guy that put the lift in and get adjusted so I don't have more boots and axles replaced. My fear is if I don't have the right info for him it will not be right. I can't wrench anymore do to car accident and bad back/discs.

So if I read this right we would back off TT until I get to these measurement points and those numbers I need to yet get? I would need to drive it between adjustments to settle it in if I don't have a winch? Correct?

If I get that far do I need to have front end aligned again?

Thanks so much for your help, I'm in a bind here and I hate to say it but I really need some help.

Thanks Redman

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12-02-2011, 03:40 PM

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I'll see if I can scan the pages in tonight. This was on a 97 actually. I did it in my garage on the floor. The biggest thing is bouncing the truck between measurements to settle the suspension some. We measured using a 3ft level for a straight edge and a tape measure. But yes, it would just be a matter of backing the jack bolts off and doing the measurements. Like I said, quick eyeball would be around 3/4 of an inch clearance between the upper control arm and the bumpstop on the frame. I think the actual # at the two measurement points was in the neighborhood of 7" with the lift, give or take.

On the aftermarket CV axles, beware, we ran in to an issue where they changed the design of the inner joint to a tripod style joint that only has 3 axis of movement where the original is a 6 axis movement. Tripod joints DO NOT respond well to lifts of any kind. I ended up rebuilding his original on the bench that night as the aftermarket joint would not allow the wheel to turn.

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#11

12-02-2011, 03:56 PM

Rebuild101

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Any time you adjust the suspension it needs to be aligned
Reason is it takes weight off on part of the truck and puts it some were else changing the ride

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#12

12-02-2011, 06:11 PM

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Here ya go, the two pages from AllData on the subject. This is for setting the stock height. Add for lift as needed. Where it says raise it an put it on hoist with plates, that can ignored if you are able to crawl under the truck. I'm not exactly a small guy and did it pretty easy.

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Ride_Height.pdf (141.5 KB, 105 views)

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#13

12-02-2011, 08:15 PM

redman02

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CVC BOOT ISSUES

Hey Matt:
Thanks for the info here it helps a bunch. I looked over clearance and it was about 1/4 inch inch clearance between the upper control arm and the bumpstop on the frame. I see now why my ride was so bad in front. New Ford front axels and boots put in today right from Ford, thanks for the heads up on the aftermarket, I will pass it onto others as well. Great info on the rest I talked with a local 4x4 shop tonight and brought your info with me. So next Tuesday they will correct the issue and balance it. He said I was lucky you gave me the information otherwise I would have destroyed my new axles and boots for sure.

Thanks Mike & Rebuild101 as well, I did not keep the old keys as I was moving and had to get rid of a bunch of stuff, old guy here, empty nester's now, sold our home and bought an all on one level patio home, love it. I will have the alligment done at the same time. Thanks to the site and you guys are great. I will become a regular member very soon.

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12-02-2011, 08:49 PM

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No problem at all, it's what we are here for. Welcome to the site by the way. Drive it sparingly and easily until you get it adjusted, My friends truck ate a new boot in a few days with it lifted too far.

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12-02-2011, 09:46 PM

redman02

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Matt: Great advice. After the 4x4 place looked at it he said it was at a bad angle for the CVC Joints so don't drive it as well but I had figured based on your thoughts I would not have anyway. So thanks again you saved me more problems, money and headaches. I love this old truck and it is in great condition but if I had not talked to you I was thinking of just getting rid of it. But I have put allot of money into it and would have taken a big hit that I could not have afforded to do.Many thanks again.
-Redman

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