Hi Krewat,
I just signed up with the forum today. I am having the same problem you had back in 2009 with a 1997 Cougar 4.6L with O2 sensor heater circuit codes. I need your advice if you don't mind. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Erv

 

You could just send him a PM, Erv.

 

Thanks Redford for your reply. I am new here. I am not sure if I have the capability of sending pm's. I am also not sure how to send them. Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks again,
Erv

 

Need 25 posts to send PMs.

 

Thanks Tom. I thought I read someplace you needed to send a certain number of posts before you could pm. I appreciate the info. Have a nice day.

Erv

 

Thanks to Tom for bringing this to my attention

Are you getting multiple O2 sensor codes? What are the exact codes?

 

Hi Art,
Thanks for getting back to me. It is the same exact codes you were getting. They are P0135, P0141, P0161 and P0155. I am also getting a P1443 which I do not believe is related since it has to do with the EVAP system. I read your posts from 2009. I did some diagnostics but just realized this past wekend that each O2 sensor heater is on it's own circuit feeding back (or from) the PCM). I now plan on running the test you sugeested by hooking a volt meter between tan/yellow and red (VPWR) as well as white/black and red to watch for voltage drop. I assume I leave the green connector hooked up during this test.
I really think the PCM is the problem. The numbers on theone I have are ML2-334 F6SF-12A650-DD with a 6-18P calibration. My questions are as follows:
1. If I am lucky enough to find a used one with the same nukbers do I need to have any programming performed?
2. I checked with a local supply house (AutoZone). They say they need VIN number and mileage to rebuild the one I have which needs to be sent out. I am hesitant since they said it may take several weeks to get back.
3. I noticed I can buy one online but it says will reqyuire programming for specific car. Is this someting I can do myself? If no who can do it?

Once again thanks for the reply. I hope I didn't ask too much info. I will probaly be working on this car tomorrow afternoon. It's my son's car and it's 25 miles away from where I am.

Erv

 

Check car-part.com, I found one for my Cougar at a local junkyard right down the road, for $75. Same calibration.

1) It does not need to be reprogrammed if it has the same (or compatible) calibration.

2) I'm not sure, but I don't think the mileage OR the VIN is in the computer for '97 and earlier Cougar/T-bird (MN12) platform. I know if I hook my Autotap or SCT X3 to my '97, it doesn't find the VIN, but if I connect to my '01 V10, it does. Either way, that option sucks.

3) You can't program it yourself without the right equipment. You might be able to find someone local to you to do it, but it'll probably be an hour's shop time which can be $75 or more.

You COULD get a used computer with the same part number, and have the Cougar calibration put into it.

What does the label on the computer say? Mine was LCJ1 - California emissions. What state are you in?

For people wondering what the heck is going on, this thread will tell you: P0135, P0155, P0141, P0161 all at the same time - TCCoA Forums

I should move this somewhere, keep an eye out for it moving to somewhere else like the 4.6/5.4 forum here at FTE.

 

By the way, by "compatible" calibration, I mean that for me, it was originally an LCJ1, I could have used a LCJ0, or even an MBE number which is non-California.

That sort of stuff is here: http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...alibration.xls

 

Moved to the 4.6/5.4 forum. This might actually help someone else with this type of problem.

 

Hi Art,
Thanks for all the info. I am not sure what number means what on the computer label. Here are all of the numbers:

EEC-V ML2-334 NPL3 F6SF-12A650-DD 66MF334 C10 32134-328 6F28.

6-18P calibration is on the calibration tag located on teh driver's side door pillar.

I am not sure if I can find a used one. I was told by a local salvage yard the -DD code means it's a low emissions system.
I am located in Texas. This car originated in upstate New York. Born a raised in the Schenectady area. Relocated to Texas after retiring 7 years ago.
Thanks again for all the help.

BTW:When I do the voltage test (while running) do I leave the green connector connected? I also assume you mean the small green conector located on the front of the door pillar under the kickpanel. The main connector going to the PCM is also green.

Thanks,
Erv

 

Hi Art,
Sorry to be such a pest. I checked the Motorcraft site you sent for the calibration info. I couldn't find my part number which according to a note indicated a later calibration was available. After searching the internet I found a site called a 1997 Cougar firmware update database. The site is 1997 Ford Cougar firmware update database. This site shows an update part number F7SF-12A650-BB for my original F6SF - DD part number. Does this say the F7SF-12650-BB part number will work? That part number has the LJC1 you spoke of listed as a Control Unit Catchword.
Sorry again for all this confusion.

Erv
<TABLE border=1><TBODY><TR><TD>F6SF-12A650-DD</TD><TD>F7SF-12A650-BB</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Erv, no problems bugging me

NPL3 is the "computer code".

That calibration 6-18P is a California Emissions code. In New York, we have to buy vehicles with California Emissions package.

You could use a Federal (not CA) PCM.

You must have an early '97 Cougar, as it seems to have a 1996 calibration.

Interesting (not entirely related) info about calibrations: Full Text Technical Service Bulletin

I just checked car-part.com, for a 97 cougar, and found two or three or so places in Texas with a PCM that will work for you.

I did a search for the "Computer Box Engine" and then picked F6SF-DD.

As for checking for that voltage drop, everything has to be done with the computer and all connectors hooked up. I never went back and actually tested it with the GOOD computer, so I can't say if that method will work, but in theory it should.

 

Hi Art,
I really appreciate all this help. I assumed the same as you that I have '96 computer/calibration. I also saw the computers in Texas on car-parts.com. However the ones listed come up under all of the part numbers listed with F6SF, not just the -DD. I guess I'll have to call. I did find two in Van Nuys, CA that look promising. The price is pretty fair at $65 for one and $75 for the other. The fella I talked to out there couldn't give me much info such as mileage. I did offer an exchange if I buy one and it doesn't work within 15 days which sounds fair.
I plan on heading up after lunch to try the voltage and resistance tests. I'll let you know what I find. Again, thanks for all this help.

Erv

 

Good morning Art,
I had a chance yesterday to run the tests on the Cougar. The CEL was on when i ran these tests. Here's what I found:

1. Resistance between white/black and red: 6 ohms.
2. Resistance between tan/yellow and red: 3 ohms.
3. Voltage between red and ground: 13 volts. (running or in on position)
4. Voltage between white/black and ground: 13 volts (running or in on position)
5. Voltage between tan/yellow and ground: 13 volts (running or in on position)

When I hooked the volt meter from red and white/black or red and tan/yellow the meter read zero when running or in the on position. I never read 13 volts (battery voltage) when I had the volt meter hooked up in this manner. Is this the same as you had? This was not from a dead cold state. I had run the car to get it to my son's house from where it was parked so the engine was still warm.
I know you didn't mention checking this but I checked the resistance between the tan/yellow and the gray/red wire as well as between the white/black to the gray/red wire at the green connector with the plug connected and it read zero. The gray/red wire feeds from the PCM to all of the O2 sensors and is labelled Ret. Sig on the wiring diagram I have. Does this say there may be a short or do they connect someplace (maybe ground?) inside the PCM?
I stopped at Autozone and had the codes re-read (I don't own a scanner) and they are sre still the same. I just wanted to make sure I didn't add any new ones.
Your thoughts?

Thanks,
Erv

BTW: I did locate a -DD PCM for $75 on car-parts.com in North Houston which is about 75 miles north of me based on your advice yesterday. Thanks. Ihaven't picked it up yet since I am still not sure if that is the problem.