alright just checking I have everything else ready to go just have to seal up the oil cooler housing. Have you checked pressure before and after the cooler and filter to see what kind of drop there is in the system by any chance?

 

Did you end up using the E series remote filter housing, if so did it fit your F series upper housing, mine was already an E series so I'm not sure if you need that upper oil cooler housing also ? I didn't do any pressure tests, but Hubler's got the same set-up with quite a few miles and no issues, I'm collecting parts to do an F series now, so I'm trying to figure that out, are you doing head gaskets too, I'm considering that this time around.

 

I am ordering the e series upper so hopefully it fits and I already have studs I had to do that a while back

 

Keep us posted.

 

Does anybody know how to contact hubler13f, I am extremely interested in finding out more information about this modification and how it is working out for him. If anybody out there has the specs for this mod please PM me, I would greatly appreciate the information.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

hey another member just did this in the Last couple days his post is recent

he might have some part numbers and insight on how to

 

here is his thread

He should be back on with More numbers and Pics sometime this week

IIRC he used the trans coolers but you should get with him for shure


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13465381

 

It's been a while since Jeremy's been here. I don't have his phone # since he moved to PA. He had a build thread on his cooler setup somewhere here.

 

Good afternoon All: Was strolling thru the web tonight and ran across this. On my Remote Oil Cooler and EGR Delete I used the same as "hubler13f" oil Filter (Baldwin 8851)and filer housing, I used a Hayden # 1260 3/4" Engine Oil Cooler which has 6 Tubes.
3/4" SS Braided Teflon Lined Hoses made locally with 3/4" male NPT.
E Series remote filter adaptor fix right on my F 250 housing
Bought E 350 metal remote lines from junk yard cut the ends off and welded them to SS Bi-lok 3/4" 90 from McMaster Carr
Screwed Galvanized 90 onto the ends of the Braided hose and used AN12 Swivels.
Flushed out with Simple Green and let run about one hour watched the temps and checked for leaks.

Drove it around Friday with my dozer 7k # on my 2200 # trailer ran about 100 miles mostly on interstate at 70 mph My EOT stayed steady under 230 degrees. I'm very happy with my results right now.

 

Just PM Jeremy thru Hubler and he will see it sooner or later , but between his, mine , and now i see a new thread part numbers should be a plenty.

 

Sorry for reviving an old thread but have a couple question i hope you can help with.

1) on the E series adapter which port is oil in and wich is oil out? Im wanting to run my filter on the oil in line after the cooler.
2) since i have a F series and I'm pinching pennies is there a way to retain the upper fuel bowl? I'm currently running a crossover fuel line that has a T that is plumbed into the test port at the fuel bowl so I'm getting equal psi to both heads at both ends.

Thanks in advance.

 

I have an entire upper oil cooler E series housing set-up if anyone is interested
$150 shipped

 

Getting ready to do my 4th external cooler utilizing the E series adapter. They've worked quite well.

 

Hi, can you please share how you connect hose to the oil ports on top of the e-series oil housing? Is the e-series housing the same as F-series except the top cap or below that small cap are also different. I read there is anti-drain back valve, but I wonder if that's part of the top cap with the 2 oil in/out ports.

 

You weld fittings to it, see the pics.