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55 running board hassle

 
  #16  
Old 11-28-2011, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CdnWillyG View Post
Thanks Holler1, that would work great on stock rear fenders but with the notch in the rear fenders to allow for the running boards on the 3" wider ones and getting under the bed with the extension may present some stress...in me! I''m leaning towards assembling to rear fenders then to the truck, still may be nerve racking getting the extension under the bed with the brackets on. Time will tell, still need to get these pre-fitted but thanks for the confidence that it will look good! I checked your profile no truck pics???
Sorry *****! I guess I didn,t understand the entire scope of your problem. We're all pulling for you. Keep us updated please!
 
  #17  
Old 11-28-2011, 03:17 PM
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Wow!
Sam that looks like a lot of work but it shows....your truck is real nice!
So in the end how many times did you put your truck together including final assembly?
 
  #18  
Old 11-28-2011, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dawolverine View Post
Also check your bed is mounted correctly - and hasn't been modified at the mounting points at some point in the past.
Yeah went thru that already, some guy put the new box together wrong.............ME!
I also shimmed my brackets at the frame to account for fitting issues and also used small rubber shims under the running boards to ease proper final fitment and cushion the boards at the mounting point.
Another good point here thanks!
 
  #19  
Old 11-28-2011, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by CdnWillyG View Post
Wow!
Sam that looks like a lot of work but it shows....your truck is real nice!
So in the end how many times did you put your truck together including final assembly?
just twice.. once in primer (prior to the wider fenders and better doors) , and once painted. Of course we assembled parts on the way
with Candy, we wanted as few adjacent shoots(applications) as possible.. here we have only two touching, hood/fenders & cab. (the bed doesn't touch)


Sam
 
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  #20  
Old 11-30-2011, 08:05 PM
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Well I got the one side bang on looks nice and straight all lines line up but was wondering why there are no fender washers in the bolt kit I got from Mf for my fibreglass fenders? I'm thinking of using non-stainless here and about 1-1/4" in diameter to hold the fenders to the bed, any foreseen issues here?
 
  #21  
Old 11-30-2011, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by CdnWillyG View Post
Well I got the one side bang on looks nice and straight all lines line up but was wondering why there are no fender washers in the bolt kit I got from Mf for my fibreglass fenders? I'm thinking of using non-stainless here and about 1-1/4" in diameter to hold the fenders to the bed, any foreseen issues here?
Should be no issues. A couple washers will need to be not round at the top of the fender, but no big deal.

Sam
 
  #22  
Old 12-01-2011, 12:10 PM
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This seems a good thread to piggyback… needing advice on the following gaps:
-The gap between the bottom of the cab sill (or door lip) and the top of the running board (toe kick)
-The gap between lower bed “wing” just behind the cab and the top of the running board upper offset

I’m working with a new bed kit, mounted with ¾” wood spacers between both front & back bed to frame mounts. The running boards are MF fiberglass repops that seem dimensionally accurate. My fenders are fiberglass repops that are 3” wider than stock.

Current mock-up has fender arches exactly where I marked the arch for a stock fender on the new bed… seems proper? I have approx 1-3/4” gap consistently between lower door sill and top flange of running board, but that leaves near zero gap between the running board’s rear offset flange and the lower bed wing behind cab… a possible contact point under working flexes and vibrations?

What is mostly bothersome is the ½” vertical gap between the molded-in pocket on the fender and the top of the adjoining running board. The only way (besides layering in a bunch of body filler) to reduce the gap is trim the running board to bed flange “joint” and raise the whole running board up. This, of course, would reduce the cab sill to running board gap to just over an inch.
So, is this just the nature of those extended width fenders, or do I have something else not properly dimensioned?
Thanks in advance... Brian
 
  #23  
Old 12-01-2011, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Phity Five View Post
This seems a good thread to piggyback… needing advice on the following gaps:
-The gap between the bottom of the cab sill (or door lip) and the top of the running board (toe kick)
-The gap between lower bed “wing” just behind the cab and the top of the running board upper offset

I’m working with a new bed kit, mounted with ¾” wood spacers between both front & back bed to frame mounts. The running boards are MF fiberglass repops that seem dimensionally accurate. My fenders are fiberglass repops that are 3” wider than stock.

Current mock-up has fender arches exactly where I marked the arch for a stock fender on the new bed… seems proper? I have approx 1-3/4” gap consistently between lower door sill and top flange of running board, but that leaves near zero gap between the running board’s rear offset flange and the lower bed wing behind cab… a possible contact point under working flexes and vibrations?

What is mostly bothersome is the ½” vertical gap between the molded-in pocket on the fender and the top of the adjoining running board. The only way (besides layering in a bunch of body filler) to reduce the gap is trim the running board to bed flange “joint” and raise the whole running board up. This, of course, would reduce the cab sill to running board gap to just over an inch.
So, is this just the nature of those extended width fenders, or do I have something else not properly dimensioned?
Thanks in advance... Brian
sorry, I don't follow what you are asking..
cab to running board.. there are rubber and stainless fillers - stock spacing
running board to bed.. should fit perfectly..least they did on mine.

there are no spacers between the bed and the front/back mounts..

Sam
 
  #24  
Old 12-01-2011, 02:02 PM
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The running board should slide right into the notch flush at bottom and tight on top. The spacing on the cab should run even along the running board and at the bed extension, on mine anyhow it is about a 1/2" of spacing to allow for movement. I hope this helps?
 
  #25  
Old 12-01-2011, 09:03 PM
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Thanx Sam/*****... I know my post was prolly unclear, so I've studied how to gallery/load pictures... below.

Three pics below show 1-1/4 gap between cab sill and running board (RB), the zero gap between bed extention and RB flange, and the 1/2" gap between the RB and wide fender pocket.






I thought there was suppose to be 3/4" spacers between the bed and frame... and I will now remove them and replace with simple rubber/welt pads for vibration. That will help close the fender to RB pocket gap.

BUT... lowering the bed will be a problem for the zero gap between the bed extention and the top of the rear RB flange. Further more, it will do nothing to close the gap between the cab/door sill and the RB flange to the 1/2" ***** has... and yes, I know there is a trim piece that covers the sill/RB gap, but I dont have it yet and dont know how much it will cover.

Tell me what you think about my dilema closing the fender to RB gap with the interference between the bed extension and RB, while still having full 1-1/4" gap between the door sill and RB.

Sorry if I'm being thick about resolving this or if my problem description is confusing.

Cheers... Brian
 
  #26  
Old 12-01-2011, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Phity Five View Post
Thanx Sam/*****... I know my post was prolly unclear, so I've studied how to gallery/load pictures... below.

Three pics below show 1-1/4 gap between cab sill and running board (RB), the zero gap between bed extention and RB flange, and the 1/2" gap between the RB and wide fender pocket.


I thought there was suppose to be 3/4" spacers between the bed and frame... and I will now remove them and replace with simple rubber/welt pads for vibration. That will help close the fender to RB pocket gap.

BUT... lowering the bed will be a problem for the zero gap between the bed extention and the top of the rear RB flange. Further more, it will do nothing to close the gap between the cab/door sill and the RB flange to the 1/2" ***** has... and yes, I know there is a trim piece that covers the sill/RB gap, but I dont have it yet and dont know how much it will cover.

Tell me what you think about my dilema closing the fender to RB gap with the interference between the bed extension and RB, while still having full 1-1/4" gap between the door sill and RB.

Sorry if I'm being thick about resolving this or if my problem description is confusing.

Cheers... Brian
there should be no gap between the RB top surface and the top edge of the notch for the widened running boards..

there WILL be a gap at the cab.. this is intentional as the cab moves and the chassis moves, and the two move differently.

there are strips u can use the cover the gap.. the stainless ones stand out, the black rubber ones don't..

I couldn't bring myself to put either of those on.. too distracting..

so, the bed should come down, and the running board up, and then you will shim to match the support arms.

Sam
 
  #27  
Old 12-01-2011, 10:28 PM
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Phity,

you have to arrange everything WITH 3/4" spacers between lower bed flange and bed supports... not between bed supports (crossmembers) and frame. the bedwood goes between the crossmember and the bed side... if you're off 3/4 there nothing is going to line up right. I'd concentrate on the fender to rb gap at the notch and forget about the rd to cab gap... it is what it is....

you can always shim the rb to rb supports to raise the rb if it doesn't fit tight into the cutout in the rear fender... I made supports for mine that I'll glass into the bottom of the board and will bolt that to the supports...

 
  #28  
Old 12-02-2011, 01:41 AM
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Brian, unable to tell but is the flange from the running board running past the bed extension?
It needs to run past to allow the running board to fit up into the fender notch which is the starting point for alignment of the other spacings.
As John/Sam said make sure your wood spacers are between the crossmembers and the bed first.
If that is the case then your running board brackets will need to be bent up/down to align the boards to the rear fender. I had the same issues but with a floor jack and a little help with a comealong got them to fit with out an other spacing material.
If I remember right the space between the bottom of my cab to lower edge of bracket was 4-1/2" may vary for yours but gives you a ball park number. Front fender to first bracket slot was 7" and second bracket 36" if you need these measurments.
Good luck!
 
  #29  
Old 12-03-2011, 09:21 PM
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I had to modify the running board to get the right fit on the rear fender so that there wasnt a gap between the running board extension and the fender...had to move it in almost 1/4" to close up the gap.
Am I the only one that has to modify the new repo parts to fit right or is this a common thing?

 

Last edited by CdnWillyG; 12-03-2011 at 09:37 PM. Reason: add pic
  #30  
Old 12-05-2011, 02:57 PM
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Thanks ***** and all for your help... pic below is end result and satisfactory.

I exchanged the 3/4" wood spacers (yes, from the frame mounts in the four corners, and not the "mid-bed" crossmembers ) with some 1/4" spacers, which closed up the 1/2" gap.

However, and perhaps as ***** did, I had to score the crease of the firberglass running board on the back side of the extension to allow enough vertical flex for the offset to fit behing the bed extension. Furthermore, I had to remove about 1/8" of material from the return flange on the bed extension to make the to extensions flush.

The driver's side RB was not as poorly dimension or mishappened, but I still had to trim the 1/8" off the bed extension return flange.

Damn near a week to figure out what the problem was (iffy repop), but only a day to fix it... Oh well, at least I learned how to load post pics.



Brian
 

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